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Nov 03
2009

Celeb Chefs Cover the Market

Rick Bayless at XOCO
Photo: stevenjohnsonphotography

Though fine dining may have cooled off a little as a result of the past year’s economic turmoil, celeb chefs remain as popular as ever. And, fortunately, many of them have opened more casual concepts, allowing diners with tighter budgets to get a taste of their culinary vision. But how do these budget-minded sibs stack up against their high-end counterparts? Read up, and then add your own votes and opinions.

Rick Bayless

Top Chef Master Rick Bayless' tireless efforts to bring the highest-quality Mexican food to the shores of Lake Michigan seem to be paying off – he now has restaurants offering his highly praised comida at either end of the price range.

Topolobampo

445 N. Clark St.
(bet. Hubbard & Illinois Sts.)
Chicago, IL 60610
312-661-1434; reserve online
Food Decor Service Cost
28 23 25 $62
Surveyors swear you get the “best high-end Mexican food in Chicago” (or perhaps “anywhere”), “crafted from the freshest ingredients”, at “creative” “celebrity chef” Rick Bayless’ “must-go” River North “treasure”, the “upscale sister to Frontera Grill” (“with prices to match”); its “cheerful” servers are “extremely knowledgeable”, and the “fantastic wine pairings” and “awesome” margaritas are “standouts” as well; just know that the “intimate”, art-filled “white-tablecloth” setting is “always crowded”, so “make your reservations early.”

XOCO

449 N. Clark St.
(enter on Illinois St.)
Chicago, IL 60610
312-334-3688
Food Decor Service Cost
- - - I
Masterful chef Rick Bayless champions Mexican street food at this all-day counter-service River North arrival with a name that means ‘little sister’ and a menu that includes soups, empanadas and ultrafresh hot tortas, all washed down by beer, wine and spiked hot chocolate (the cacao beans are ground in a street-front window); the sunflower-colored, LEED-certified space features standard and communal seating plus an exposed kitchen with a wood-burning oven.

 

Paul Kahan

Over the years Paul Kahan has become one the city's most influential chefs/restaurateurs, pulling off both high-end fare at his flagship New American and affordable pub fare at his latest spot (a taqueria is up next).

Blackbird

619 W. Randolph St.
(bet. Desplaines & Jefferson Sts.)
Chicago, IL 60661
312-715-0708; reserve online
Food Decor Service Cost
27 22 24 $64
Paul Kahan and Mike Sheerin’s “exceptional, seasonal” cuisine “sings”, “releasing the inner spirit” of every ingredient at this West Loop New American that’s “still in top form” after 11 years; other assets include a “superb wine list”, “attentive, personable service” and “hip”, “minimalist”, “not-for-romantics” decor that “makes the food the star” – just know that it’s “pricey” and one diner’s “lively” is another’s “deafening”, as “beautiful people” and “enthusiastic foodies” chatter away at “tight tables.”
The Publican
The Publican
Photo: Steven Johnson

The Publican

837 W. Fulton Mkt.
(Green St.)
Chicago, IL 60607
312-733-9555; reserve online
Food Decor Service Cost
- - - M
The team behind Blackbird and avec heads to the Market District bearing midpriced New American pub fare (emphasizing pork and seafood) and an encyclopedic, global beer list (plenty of Belgians on tap) served in a butter – and gravy-hued space that includes a wraparound communal table and cozy alcoves with swinging doors; N.B. there’s brunch and a family-style dinner on Sundays.

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