Naomichi Yasuda

photo: Christina Livadiotis

Sushi may figure prominently in many a restaurant-goer’s diet these days, but how much do you actually know about its preparation, the etiquette surrounding it and what those masters behind the counter really think of their customers? In the first of a series of interviews with top sushi chefs, we sit down with Naomichi Yasuda of Sushi Yasuda, NYC’s top-rated Japanese restaurant. A traditionalist who takes pride in every single cut of fish (so much so that he’ll study an eater’s mouth to determine the appropriate piece size for that particular diner), he discusses the differences between American and Japanese sushi restaurants, why freshness can be overrated and more.

Zagat Buzz: What differences, if any, do you find between sushi preparation and etiquette in the U.S. and in Japan?

Naomichi Yasuda: There are two Japans: old Japan and new Japan. Old Japan is what I follow here at Sushi Yasuda and focuses more on traditional sushi making, with special attention paid to the rice and to correct portion size. Here at Sushi Yasuda, rice is very important and I make and season my own rice, like they used to in Japan. Also, the nice clean small slices are the way of traditional Japan and what you see here. New Japan mirrors more of what America is now in relation to sushi. No individual attention is paid to any particular piece of sushi.

ZB: I can see that you make and serve every piece one-by-one here.

NY: Yes, this is old Japan. Big cuts are seen as a positive thing in this new sushi world, which is not necessarily true. Also, people think that the fresher a fish is the better it is. This is generally true, but some fish are actually better after a day or two of preparation. Old Japan is standard. I am standard. You see nothing extraordinary here. Extraordinary is new Japan. 

ZB: What are the telltale signs that distinguish an expert sushi eater vs. an amateur?

NY: Everyone is the same to me! … No matter what fish someone orders or how they order it, they are here for the food, so they are the same to me. There is no black belt or white belt here. Fish is fish. They don’t have passports or religion or race. It is just fish.

Although when someone asks me to make something special, something different, I do not do it. I don’t do special.

ZB: What is your favorite thing to prepare?

NY: I like working with mackerel, squid and anything in the tuna family.

ZB: Where do you go to eat after your shift?

NY: I work most days so I don’t get out to eat much. But when I do, I like going to Irish places. I like their sausages. I’ll go to Sugiyama once in a while also, or Sushiden.

- Christina Livadiotis