Eric Ripert

Photo: Nigel Parry

Last week, Le Bernardin hosted its candlelit Vintage Dinner for a packed house eager to enjoy classic dishes and cabaret. The Buzz caught up with chef Eric Ripert in DC to talk about the dinner, the economy and the Légion d'honneur he was recently awarded by the French government.

Zagat Buzz: Congratulations on receiving France’s Légion d'honneur. Do you see a difference between the recognition that the French give their chefs and the celebrity status that some achieve in the U.S.?

Eric Ripert: Not really, in that both countries show a respect for chefs. But in the U.S. there is a different approach. In France, even today, chefs remain in the kitchen. Here, they are running multiple operations. There are only two chefs in France that would be considered “celebrity chefs” [in the American sense] – Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon.

ZB: Speaking of chefs having diverse roles, can you give us a preview of your upcoming PBS television show, Avec Eric, that will be shown next fall? We understand that you filmed in Italy, Northern California and New York.

ER: We visited interesting people in Italy and California – farmers, wine makers, chefs who are really connected to the source of the foods they serve by growing food in their own garden. Every show has three segments. Each episode starts behind the scenes at Le Bernardin. Then we travel for inspiration. And finally, I return to my kitchen to cook something stimulated by the tour.

ZB: You are also an author – tell us about your recent book.

ER: This is different from other cookbooks. It is geared to encourage people to cook at home, simply, with delicious products.

ZB: Far from such simple cooking, you recently hosted a Vintage Dinner at Le Bernardin featuring an elegant 19th-century menu. Did you have a good time?

ER: It was phenomenal. The men were dressed up in black tie; the women inspired by haute couture. Dinner was served by candlelight only. What really made the evening special was the re-created Victorian cabaret that followed the meal.

ZB: Nineteenth-century banquet food has a reputation for being rich and heavy – not like Le Bernardin’s usual cooking – did you lighten the recipes?

ER: We selected dishes that would provide a mix of light and rich courses. For example, we did a whole striped bass poached with a champagne sauce, followed by a wild hare à la royale – a very traditional but heavy preparation.

ZB: What other eras would you like to try?

ER: Perhaps a Renaissance dinner. It would be interesting to go back to 500 years ago and see what delicious food they were eating. Indeed, it might be interesting to do a different dinner for each century – and even project into the future.

ZB: How are your restaurants responding to the economy? Your Westend Bistro [in DC] now serves a family-style Sunday Supper – a starter and entree for $28 per person.

ER: We thought the Sunday Supper would encourage people to go out that night, and that it would be different and fun. But our restaurants won’t compromise on the quality of the product so they will keep prices where they are. People still want to eat well and to celebrate with good food and service. I am thrilled that Westend Bistro is busy.

ZB: Recently Citronelle’s sommelier Mark Slater left to help [Ray’s the Steaks] develop a wine list featuring high-quality wines at accessible prices – with possible carafe, as well as by-the-glass, service. This move highlighted consumers' concerns about the cost of wine at high-end and even middle-level restaurants. What are your restaurants doing to make good wine more accessible to diners?

ER: Of course it is possible to drink good wine for little money – but you need knowledge or good advice to help you choose. Wines by the glass can be good value if you want to drink a single serving – it's a way to taste an exceptional wine. And, really, when you consider the effort that it takes to make a good wine – so much work and passion – they are great values. And exceptional [wines] that cost lots of money are still being sold. Clients are more discreet than in the past, but they still want to enjoy them.

– Olga Boikess