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Jun 23
2009

Three Squares in Williamsburg

Williamsburg continues to host a diverse dining scene, as evidenced by these three recent openings:

Regional Mexican specialties like Oaxacan tamales and D.F.-style (or soft) tacos with Berkshire pork draw a lively crowd to Mesa Coyoacan, a newcomer whose open-air entrance, communal table and velvety red booths lend it extra sizzle; micheladas and red and white sangria wash down the comida, though the lack of margaritas may be a menos for some (372 Graham Ave.; 718-782-8171).

An eclectic approach to seafood – ranging from mussels Roquefort to fish-cake sliders – informs the petite menu at young salt Sel de Mer, which also satisfies landlubbers with T-bone steaks and burgers; navy-painted pressed tin along the walls and two-top tables covered with brown paper lend it a casual feel, though the current lack of liquor keeps the sea chanteys at bay (374 Graham Ave.; 718-387-4181).

Southern food from a Momofuku alum takes center stage at the midpriced arrival Brooklyn Star in the former Brick Oven Galley space, where the pizza stove is now used to crank out fare like cornbread and mac ’n’ cheese served in piping-hot skillets; its tiny digs are Billyburg-minimal, with slate floors and wainscoting, plus there’s an open kitchen and booth seating on either side of the front door (33 Havemeyer St.; 718-599-9899).

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