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Apr 06
2009

A Chat With Tony Maws

Boston chef Tony Maws made a lot of fans happy last year by moving his diminutive Craigie Street Bistrot to a larger space near Central Square (where it was renamed Craigie on Main). Maws recently took time to share his thoughts on the move, his favorite new ingredients and survival tactics in a challenging economy.

Tony Maws
Tony Maws
Photo: Michael Piazza

Eric Grossman: Congrats on the new space. How's it been going so far? Seen any change in the clientele?

Tony Maws: So far it's been great. Most of our regulars made the move with us – we're thrilled to say – so [the crowd’s] not too different, but perhaps a little younger, reflecting the demographic in the immediate neighborhood.

EG: What do you think of your new neighborhood? Any nearby spots that you've become a fan of?

TM: You bet. We've always been big fans of Royal East, Mary Chung, Rendezvous and Central Kitchen, and we're thrilled to be close to them. Also, I love shopping at the Korean and Indian grocery stores nearby.

EG: Having fun with the bar? Any personal faves among the cocktails and bar snacks?

TM: I'm very fond of Northern Lights and Ardoise, two of our most popular drinks. I love our burger – I worked on it for three months, so I'm thrilled that it's selling [so well]. The bar has a very different vibe from our dining room and even from other bars. Very lively and mellow at the same time, if that makes sense. We have lots of books so people can read. You can order any kind of food, so there's everything from people just having a drink to those immersed in a full-on 10-course tasting menu with wine pairings. We have people waiting at the door at 5:15 before we open, and there's a great late-night scene – many industry people come to hang out since we serve food in the bar till midnight.

EG: Your menus are distinctive for their use of ingredients rarely seen around town – cocks combs come to mind. Any current faves or recent discoveries you're excited about?

TM: We love vadouvan [an Indian spice blend] and Barolo chinato [an infused wine]. I am very excited about our hiramasa appetizer as well.

EG: Anything you've tried that was too "out there" for the customers?

TM: Never. Boudin noir, duck tongues, pig tails, cod cheeks, cocks combs and pig feet – people love them, they just want us to bring it on!

EG: Are you looking forward to spring and summer ingredients?

TM: I love root vegetables but we're all ready to see some green! Ramps, green garlic and asparagus are all making their way to the menu.

EG: Dozens of restaurants have instituted unprecedented deals and discounts to survive in this economy. Are you doing anything similar?

TM: We've always had bargain "Neighborhood” and "Chef's Whim” menus. Plus now we have a bar with its own menu – it’s a lower-cost way to enjoy Craigie.

EG: More and more restaurants are announcing their commitment to local, seasonal, sustainable ingredients. What are your thoughts?

TM: You can't have too much local, seasonal, sustainable – there's no such thing. I'm a little concerned that people are more concerned about saving money than about sustainability these days.

– Eric Grossman

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