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Jun 03
2009

Talking Chow With Alan Yau

Alan Yau has arrived stateside with a Miami outpost of Hakkasan.
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Hong Kong native Alan Yau took London by storm in 1991 with the launch of his groundbreaking Japanese noodle chain Wagamama, and his streak of success continued with Busaba Eathai, Hakkasan, Yauatcha and Cha Cha Moon. So it’s no surprise that there was a collective sigh of disappointment among foodies when plans for his much anticipated U.S. debut in New York's Gramercy Park Hotel, Park Chinois, fell through in 2006.

Fortunately, the wait is over: Yau has arrived stateside with an outpost of Hakkasan in Miami’s Fontainebleau. Zagat Buzz caught up with the renowned restaurateur to find out about his latest venture, and the details behind Park Chinois’ derailment.

Zagat Buzz: So, why Miami?

Alan Yau: After the Gramercy Park/Ian Schrager experience, I just wanted to go somewhere else where there is less pressure and expectation. [Hakkasan] will allow us to do things properly before coming to New York. I also wanted an organization that could give unqualified support, and I found the Fontainebleau Group extremely upfront and professional.

ZB: What did happen with the Gramercy?

AY: We encountered difficulty in bringing the kitchen brigade over. Our visa application was rejected twice, and Ian then told me he was considering someone else.

ZB: Are there certain dishes on the Miami menu that are indigenous to the area, and can’t be found at your other places?

AY: We have a chicken with fresh coconut and local scallops, which are very different from Scottish scallops.

ZB: How much time will you spend in Miami?

AY: Once a month, weather permitting. I prefer low season, and I tend not to go into the hotel’s lobby. I didn’t realize it was going to be like an upmarket Club Med.

ZB: What will it take to get you to open in New York?

AY: I am actually looking at a site at the moment. It isn’t a restaurant now, but I can’t talk about it. This time around we might do it on our own, so we have absolute control.

ZB: Is there a particular neighborhood you want?

AY: The spatial dynamic is more important to me than the location; it has to have a certain proportion and shape. I am looking for a perfect rectangle on the first floor. Each baby of mine is viewed like a human. The atmosphere is essential to make the energy and social dynamics work – I need all areas to be fronted by activity. In London, the cage, which is what we call the dining room, is fronted on the north side by the kitchen, on the west side by a tea station, south by the bar and east by the lounge, squeezing the energy tighter. The vibes are different than at other restaurants. One of the things that attracted me to the Miami space was that one wall faced the sea.

ZB: What attracts you to New York?

AY: New York will actually be easier than Miami. We are getting a local team of chefs and more interesting ingredients because New York has a proper Chinatown.

ZB: Do you think that diversifying with high- and low-end restaurants as you do is the key to success in this economic climate?

AY: The restaurants we have in the lower market are performing better, and Hakkasan is down a bit, but if I had only high-end places, I would consolidate to make sure all the units were running efficiently.

ZB: So what is your time frame for future projects?

AY: I’d like to open a Hakkasan-type restaurant in New York by next summer and Abu Dhabi a year from now.

– Beth Landman

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