Zagat Buzz: Boston

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:26:00 GMT

Why the attitude? No one else is eating here.

Masa Munchies for Black Friday

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:48:00 GMT

Masa's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Take a break from shopping madness on Black Friday, November 27, with a two-course $15 lunch or $25 dinner (drink included with each) at Masa's South End (617-338-8884) and Woburn (781-938-8886) locations.

Dining News Elsewhere: Obese Americans, Ramsay Loses His Number Two

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:12:00 GMT

– By 2018, 43% of Americans are expected to be obese. [NYDN]
– Gordon Ramsay has lost his right-hand man. [Bloomberg]
– The Senate is considering requiring beef to be tested for E. coli. [NYT]

– Top Chef contestants aren't being paid for the TV dinners that feature their faces (and recipes). [Time]
– First canned pumpkins, now an Eggo shortage looms. [NYDN]
– The art of complaining to a restaurant. [Guardian]
– A modest proposal for fixing restaurant and bar smoking bans. [Eater]
– Related: the science behind banning smoking outside. [Time]
– Ever wonder what it would be like to cook dinner for Thomas Keller? [Esquire]
– Talking cooking with Coolio. [Fork in the Road]
– NBC's newest cooking show, United Plates of America, will give away a four-restaurant chain. [Reuters]
– Hey, so, while you eat that sushi, this guy here is going to swallow a sword. [WSJ]
– Starbucks continues to roll out its unbranded coffee shops. [Diner's Journal]
– If New York loses its lawsuit, Tavern on the Green will become Tavern in the Park. [Crain's]
– Restaurants embrace Twilight. [NRN]
– Martha Stewart is not a fan of Rachael Ray. [ABC News, via EMD and GS]
– The Rolling Stones, the wine. [Examiner]
– Pork belly and other over-served dishes. [Between Meals]
– Students arrested for not paying their tip. [Philly]
– Plastic wishbones: what will the kids fight over? [SE]

Late Nights at the Biltmore

BuzzEditor — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:57:00 GMT

Biltmore Bar & Grille

Photo: Mike Ritter

The Biltmore Bar & Grille, a cozy American tavern in Newton, has just updated its dinner menu and expanded its bar and seating, bringing in a late-night crowd from the ’burbs. The additions also mean a new "Night Owl" menu, available 10 PM–closing, with classic comfort bites like hot wings and bistro sliders (617-527-2550).

Pairing Practice

BuzzEditor — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:38:00 GMT

Photo: courtesy of Sweet Solutions

Just in time for the holidays, on Wednesday, December 2, Gordon’s Fine Wine & Culinary Center in Waltham will host Chocolate Heaven: Dessert & Dessert Wine Pairings. Judy Mattera, a Boston-area pastry chef and owner of dessert-and-wine pairings consultancy Sweet Solutions, will present guests with myriad categories of dessert wines and numerous possibilities for creating “memorable end-of-dining experiences.” The class will include demonstrations, recipes and four dessert tastings with paired wines – like a chocolate orange timbale with Graham's 10-year-old Tawny port (7:30–9 PM; $45 per person; 781-893-1900).

Dining News Elsewhere: Koodies, Samuelsson Goes to Washington

BuzzEditor — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:20:00 GMT

– Marcus Samuelsson will be working the kitchen at Obama's first state dinner. [Obama Foodorama]
– The fight for Cadbury intensifies. [WSJ]
– Chipotle sets its sights on London, Europe. [NRN]

– Costco drops Coke. [AP]
– Related: Coke bottles, 1899–1986. [Pixdaus]
– Milk producers wish they could sell their product "raw." [NYT]
– Hooters is having trouble in Vegas. [Eater]
– A canned pumpkin shortage looms. [Diner's Journal]
– Putting things in perspective with the Fat Map. [HP]
– Jamie Oliver wants to help you find a date. [Marketing]
– A Shake Shack in Boston looks increasingly possible. [GS:B]
– What a $20 Thanksgiving feast from Walmart gets you. [The Awl]
– A word we'd like to quickly forget? "Koodie." [SE]
– Foods named after people. [Mental Floss and Cakespy, via SE]
– They found water on the moon...can you drink it? [Slate]
– Making mushrooms with coffee grinds. [Chronicle, via Coldmud]
– Making art with meat, some wires, a videocamera and a stove. [EMD]

Sensing Gerard Barbin

BuzzEditor — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:36:00 GMT

Gerard Barbin

Photo: courtesy of Sensing

Gerard Barbin cut his teeth in some of his home country's finest kitchens. Prior to coming to Boston, the Frenchman worked in Paris under Guy Martin, and when offered the chance to run Martin's kitchen at his first stateside restaurant, the Fairmont Battery Wharf's Sensing, Barbin jumped at the chance. The Buzz recently caught up with Barbin to discuss his first experience working in an American kitchen.

Zagat Buzz: We're only a couple of months away from Sensing's first birthday – congrats! How has your experience working in an American restaurant been so far?

Gerard Barbin: It has been a wonderful experience, as business is good. We started in January in the middle of winter, but spring and especially summer with the patio were very busy. American diners are very enthusiastic about what we do at Sensing. We're doing something different, adventurous. Contemporary French cuisine is new for some customers.

ZB: Coming straight from the Parisian culinary world to Boston must have been quite the change. What were some of your initial impressions of the Boston dining scene, and of the city itself?

GB: Everybody asks me the same question: ‘How do you like Boston?’ I really like it. Boston is a welcoming city, with a strong identity. There are a lot of good restaurants and chefs and a lot of strong areas for dining, like the North End, Back Bay, South End, Cambridge.

ZB: How would you rate the quality of available ingredients? Are they on a par with what you usually worked with in France? Have you been pleased or surprised by the quality or variety of our local ingredients and purveyors?

GB: I didn’t know when I first came in what I’d have for quality or choice. I did not have to import anything, and one of the goals is to use all local ingredients whenever possible. I was very impressed by the variety. The fish and seafood quality in Boston is phenomenal. The variety of vegetables and fruit is large also, in terms of color and form.

ZB: Sensing's menu is one of the most adventurous and playful in the city. Please describe your approach to cooking.

GB: I work with the season and the weather. If there are no chanterelles today, we use something else in accordance with the season, nothing fake. One important thing for me is the taste. We do a lot of tasting before adding a dish to the menu. I try also to educate the customer, bringing in some products that they don’t know about. Some old vegetables, grains or spices like the parsley root, amaranth or togarashi.

ZB: Final question: what, if anything, are you homesick for? Are there any foods, dishes or ingredients that you have not been able to find (or are not pleased with) around Boston?

GB: It’s not difficult, but the bakery on a corner of the street with a fresh baguette is something I miss.

– Eric Grossman

Singh-ing in Wellesley Hills

BuzzEditor — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 10:51:00 GMT

Along busy Route 16 in Wellesley Hills, tucked away on a subterranean level, is Singh’s Café, a budget-friendly Indian arrival specializing in cuisine from the Northern region of the country – lamb, kebabs, lentils and roti (though there are some Southern options as well); the cheery, yellow-walled environs include a full bar, and there’s a buffet offered for weekday lunch and weekend brunch.

312 Washington St., Wellesley Hills; 781-235-1666

Explore Tandoor

BuzzEditor — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:12:00 GMT

Mantra

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Ever wish you could whip up some Tandoor specialties? Now you can through Mantra’s Tuesday Tandoor cooking classes. The nominal fee includes one free cocktail, a sampling of various naans, kebabs and other menu items decided that day, as well as hands-on instruction (5:30–7 PM; $20 per person; 617-542-8111).

Dining News Elsewhere: Buzzy Booze, Subway in the Sky

BuzzEditor — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:50:00 GMT

– The FDA is targeting caffeinated booze. [WSJ]
– Meanwhile, its efforts to ban eating raw oysters didn't work out so well. [NYT]
– Burger King franchisees lose 10¢ for every $1 double cheeseburger sold. [NRN]

– A special Subway franchise is set to rise up with the Freedom Tower in New York. [NYP]
– U.S. chicken production is set to fall for the first time in 36 years. [Reuters]
– Champagne sales are a bit flat these days. [NYT]
– Musicians do covers of other bands' hits, why shouldn't chefs cover other toques' recipes? [Guardian]
– Pinkberry's further expansion plans include Boston, DC, New Orleans and Mexico. [Eater]
– Why we read cookbooks. [The New Yorker]
– Want a new drug? Synthetic alcohol isn't out of the question. [Scotsman, via ColdMud]
– Just when we've gotten used to twist-off tops, get ready for wine in a plastic bottle. [Stuff]
– Things a restaurant patron should never do. [Applesauce]
– Related, 10 dirty restaurant tricks. [Slashfood]
– Peace through hummus. [Economist]
– Hard to turn down a "love dessert" made with passion fruit and...Viagra. [NYDN]

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:46:00 GMT

Authenticity has never been more perfectly faked.

Summer Winter Beer Blast

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:00:00 GMT

Summer Winter

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Allagash Brewing Company will lure hopsheads to Summer Winter in Burlington on November 20, when it provides the libations for a three-course beer dinner. The brews will be paired with each course, and also incorporated into dishes like frenched beef short ribs braised in Allagash Black (7 PM; $55 per person, excluding tax and gratuity, 781-221-6643).

Dining News Elsewhere: Drink Preferences, Raw Oyster Brouhahah

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:01:00 GMT

– A whole lot of info on what diners like to drink. [R&I]
– Should the FDA try to prevent you from eating raw oysters? [NYT, Slate]
– Burger King franchisees are suing over $1 double cheeseburgers. [Miami Herald]

– Meanwhile, McDonald's plans for the future. [CNN]
– The backlash to the list of waiter no-nos is on. [XX, Server not Servant]
– How to act around a celebrity chef. [Atlantic]
– The U.K. now has its own version of the Food Network. [Eater]
– Related: Emeril Lagasse is planning a prime-time variety show not on the Food Network. [ABC]
– Mario Batali makes his film debut in The Fantastic Mr. Fox. [WSJ]
– Heston Blumenthal plans a wildly expensive Christmas dinner for a TV special featuring ambergris, aka whale vomit. [Sun]
– Jamie Oliver has seen a backlash for the salt content of his pasta sauces. [Guardian]
– Cooking With Coolio, the cookbook, is now on sale. [EMD]
– Remembering New York City's 1935 ban on baby artichokes. [Diner's Journal]
– Don't be embarrassed to dine out alone. [Between Meals]
– Raising a vegetarian child without the conflict. [LAT]
– Can drunken fruit flies help cure alcoholism? [Wired]
– Looking to find free grub for the rug rats? Try here. [Kids Eat For, via SE]
– Deep-fried turkey disasters. On video. [EMD]

Outtakes: Cruise Lines Edition

BuzzEditor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:22:00 GMT

Each time we perform a survey here at Zagat we inevitably find ourselves with a slew of amusing outtakes that aren't quite fit for print. Which doesn't mean they aren't entertaining. Here are a few of our favorites from our just completed Cruise Lines survey:

A conga line is not conducive to good digestion.

No activities for anyone who isn't an alcoholic seeking random sex.

They cater to the newly wed and nearly dead.

Great if you like hairy chest contests.

A rust bucket filled with rowdy people.

The more you booze, the better you cruise.

Bathrooms so small you have to sit on the toilet sideways.

It does attract a crowd – it's called ‘God's floating waiting room.'

Stoddard's Imminent, AKA on the Way

BuzzEditor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:01:00 GMT

Stoddard’s Fine Food & Ale in the Ladder District is finally slated to open later this month on Tuesday, November 17 (48 Temple Pl.; 617-426-0048).

Update: Per PR, Stoddard's will be opening December 3.

Looking further ahead to this spring, Christian Touche, the longtime general manger of Clio/Uni, and Uni chef Chris Chung are striking out on their own to open AKA Bistro, a combination French bistro and sashimi bar in Lincoln, MA.

Tailgating at Tavolo

BuzzEditor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:21:00 GMT

The Patriots may be playing out of town this Sunday, but that shouldn't keep you from celebrating: Tavolo in Dorchester features a tailgate menu every time the Pats play. Items include white bean chili, Max’s meatballs or pork belly sliders, plus two draft beers – all for $20 (617-822-1918).

Dining News Elsewhere: Arby's Troubles, Food-Fight Arrests

BuzzEditor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:57:00 GMT

– Trying to save New Orleans' po' boys. [NYT]
– 25 children were recently arrested in Chicago for...a food fight. [NYT]
– The recession has been especially hard on Arby's. [Slate]

– Meanwhile, Uno Express has opened 160 locations in the past 15 months. [BG]
– Consumers expect to spend less on dining out next year. [NRN]
– Starbucks tries a new look out in London. [BrandRepublic, via Eater]
– Obama's pastry chef, the "Crustmaster." [AP]
– Top Chef contestant Dale Levitski takes over Chicago newcomer Sprout. [GS: C]
– Despite being an international restaurateur himself, Gordon Ramsay blasts international restaurant chains. [Daily Record]
– The Food Network seeks America's worst cooks. [Variety]
– Related: What Would Brian Boitano Make? gets picked up for a second season. [EMD]
– Health-wise, is chocolate milk the new red wine? [NYT]
– Related: finally, a scientific reason why red wines (mostly) don't go well with fish. [Economist]
– Actually? French women do get fat. [Reuters]
– Why must restaurant websites be so terrible? [Between Meals]
– An undrinkable beer from the Hindenburg disaster is up for sale. [NYP]
– A tofurky-flavored soda? [SE]

Littlenecking in Weymouth

BuzzEditor — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:25:00 GMT

Littlenecks Bar & Grill

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

The menu at Weymouth's Littlenecks Bar & Grill, an Asian-influenced New American seafooder, includes everything from tempura rockfish to steaks and chicken to the titular clams; the airy dining room features hardwood floors and bamboo plants, and there’s also a sushi bar, a large granite-top bar with flat-screen TVs and a private party room.

1073 Main St., Weymouth; 781-340-5624

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Jean-Georges Goes to Market

BuzzEditor — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 10:37:00 GMT

Market

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

For his first Boston venture, the New American Market in the Theater District’s W hotel, Jean-Georges Vongerichten has put together a moderately priced menu of ‘greatest hits’ from his other restaurants, featuring dishes peppered with French, Pan-Asian and Italian influences and served in sexy white-and-brown environs overlooking Tremont Street; N.B. the adjacent Living Room lounge serves small plates and boxed lunches from the restaurant.

100 Stuart St.; 617-310-6790

Zagat To Go, Now On Android

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:26:00 GMT

Finally, something that both the iPhone and the Droid does: Zagat To Go, our popular smartphone application for finding ratings and reviews of over 40,000 restaurants, hotels, nightlife and shopping worldwide, has come to Google's Android phone OS. And not only can you search for your favorite spots, the home-screen widget will offer you a randomly selected nearby restaurant for you to try. To get the app, which costs just $9.99, point your finger to the Android Marketplace.

Top of the Hub Visits New York

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:24:00 GMT

On November 30, the chefs at Back Bay's Top of the Hub will be shown a little Big Apple love as they prepare to present dinner that evening at the prestigious James Beard House in New York. The five-course special menu will be paired with wines. If you can make the trek, you'll be rewarded with dishes like miniature lobster club sandwiches on brioche with cured bacon and avocado-herb mayonnaise, pan-seared scallops with chorizo emulsion, and chocolate hazelnut cheesecake with amaretto mousse (7 PM hors d'oeuvres and wine reception, followed by dinner at 8 PM; $165 per person, $125 for Beard members; 212-627-2308).

Dining News Elsewhere: Kraft Goes Hostile, Food Cart Love

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 11:53:00 GMT

– Cadbury has rejected Kraft's hostile £9.8 billion bid. [WSJ]
– McDonald's is set to launch a $1 breakfast menu. [WSJ]
– How did food carts become media darlings? [BlackBook]

– Related: a clever Pratt student comes up with a way to eat street food on the street. [Midtown Lunch]
– Ruby Tuesday has spent upwards of $100 million to upgrade its brand. [NYT]
– The birth of Subway's $5 foot-long. [Bussiness Week]
– Celebrating Veteran's Day with restaurant deals. [NRN]
– It had to happen: a Twitter-based reservation service launches in SF. [GS:SF]
– Frank Bruni's Born Round, the TV show?. [GS:NY]
– David Chang blogs his book tour for GQ. [GQ]
– Did Gossip Girl stop the "speakeasy" trend in its tracks? [The Atlantic]
– Foods that can cause headaches. [Divine Caroline]
– One angry diner. [NYP]
– American fast food you can't get in the U.S. [SquidInk, via Eater]

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:45:00 GMT

It was good, but not nearly as good as the employees kept telling me.

Turkey Time: Thanksgiving '09

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 16:00:00 GMT

Photo: Ion Sokhos

A Thanksgiving dinner where you don't have to clean up afterward is truly something to be thankful about. The following restaurants are offering meals for gobbling on November 26.

Aura

1 Seaport Ln.; 617-385-4300

Take your appetite to the Seaport Hotel, where chef Rachel Klein will prepare a three-course prix fixe lunch menu and dessert buffet, as well as an all-natural, healthy menu for children. Dishes includes baked oysters, organic turkey, grilled pork tenderloin or rib-eye and a selection of desserts (one seating at noon; $60 for adults, $22 for children; free for children under six).

Bokx109 American Prime

399 Grove St., Newton Lower Falls; 617-454-3399

Newton’s premier steakhouse, in the Hotel Indigo, will celebrate Thanksgiving by offering an inspired three-course prix fixe including butternut and Japanese winter squash bisque with almond chantilly; New Hampshire turkey two ways (roasted breast and confit thigh) with side dishes; and traditional pumpkin pie (2–8 PM; $45 per person, $65 with wine pairings).

dante

40 Edwin H. Land Blvd., Cambridge; 617-497-4200

Dante de Magistris' Italian inside the Royal Sonesta hotel is going to the birds with a naturally raised, free-range Vermont turkey with stuffing as part of its three-course prix fixe menu. Vegetarian options are also available (1–9 PM; $69 per person; à la carte menu for children under 12).

Davio's

75 Arlington St.; 617-357-4810

290 Patriot Pl., Foxboro; 508-339-4810

Both locations will be offering a prix fixe, as well as "Tomorrow’s Turkey Sandwich" to go – a version of the day-after treat with turkey, stuffing, cranberry apple chutney and gravy (noon–8 PM; prix fixe $35 in Boston, $29 in Foxboro; children's under-12 menu $13 in Boston, $11 in Foxboro; sandwich $12 in Boston, $13 in Foxboro).

Eastern Standard

528 Commonwealth Ave.; 617-532-9100

This Traditional American–European inside the Hotel Commonwealth will give thanks all day, beginning with its normal breakfast, 7–10:30 AM, and continuing with a prix fixe dinner, which will include baked Island Creek oysters, roast turkey and lamb (1–8 PM; $50 per person, $20 for children).

Gibbet Hill Grill

61 Lowell Rd., Groton; 978-448-2900

Enjoy a traditional Thanksgiving in the contemporary yet bucolic surrounds of this steakhouse in Groton, where the three-course prix fixe includes New England–style roast turkey and stuffing (11:30 AM–7 PM; $35–$49 depending on entree).

Harvest

44 Brattle St., Cambridge; 617-868-2255

Turkey with all the fixings is being offered at this Harvard Square New American as part of its three-course prix fixe; there will also be vegetarian options, including a roasted chestnut and mascarpone agnolotti (11:30 AM–7:30 PM; $65 per person, $25 for children 12 and under, plus $15 for half-glass wine pairing, $25 for full-glass pairing).

Legal Sea Foods

Multiple locations

Though hours vary, all Legal Sea Foods will be offering either à la carte specials or a traditional turkey plate, including a slow-roasted breast served with sausage, sage stuffing and mashed butternut squash; there will also be a child's portion available.

Post 390

406 Stuart St.; 617-399-0015

Eric Brennan's Back Bay newcomer will be offering a special Thanksgiving menu in addition to the regular menu on T-Day. Expect a three-course prix fixe that includes choice of appetizer, entree and dessert (noon–8 PM; $42 per person).

Scarlet Oak Tavern

1217 Main St., Hingham; 781-749-8200

Along with a traditional turkey dinner, this Hingham steakhouse will also offer alternatives like pumpkin ravioli as part of its three-course prix fixe (11:30 AM–7 PM; $34–$49).

Kick Ass Cupcakes

378 Highland Ave., Somerville; 617-628-2877

Instead of your average pie, you can create a cupcake cornucopia with versions such as a cinnamon chai pecan sticky cupcake or a cider cake with an apple compote center topped with hard-cider frosting. Order by Monday, November 23, to have it in time for Thanksgiving ($2.75 each, mini-cupcakes $1.25, extra large cupcakes $3.75).

Dining News Elsewhere: Obesity and Cancer, Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:51:00 GMT

– A baguette dropped by a bird stopped the Large Hadron Collider. [Times]
– Linking obesity and cancer. [MSNBC]
– Scripps (which owns the Food Network) sets its sights on the Travel Channel. [EMD]

– Jamie Oliver, upholder of justice. [Telegraph]
– How wine became a "fast food." [Daily Beast]
– Daniel Boulud sets his sights on London. [Bloomberg]
– LA's Orso prepares for a final bow. [NYT]
– A long chat with Gordon Ramsay. [Telegraph]
– Not kosher: Ilan Hall's bacon-wrapped matzoh balls. [Jewish Journal]
– 7-Eleven gets ready to roll out its own wine. [MSNBC]
– Why Guinness can taste different in Ireland (and elsewhere). [Accidental Hedonist]
– Will laser etchings replace fruit and vegetable stickers? [Gizmodo]
– Portion sizes, then and now. [DivineCaroline]
– How exactly does Jell-O work? [BG]
– Meat, the fabric. [EMD]
– Cookie monster cupcakes love cookies. [Leila Cohan]

Eric Brennan's New Post

BuzzEditor — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 15:01:00 GMT

Post 390

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Having spent much of this decade running the kitchens at Harvest and the now-closed Excelsior, Eric Brennan is a veteran of the Boston dining scene. This season, he's made a splash with the Back Bay newcomer Post 390. Brennan recently took a few minutes to discuss his latest venture.

Zagat Buzz: Post 390 is truly starting from scratch with a new building, new kitchen, new staff – how's it been going? Has this been a greater challenge than when you started at Excelsior?

Eric Brennan: Oh, yes, quite the challenge...fortunately, an experienced management team coupled with an energetic line staff has made the transition much easier. Thanks to the dedication from everyone involved, it’s been very successful.

ZB: Tell us a bit about the menu at Post 390.

EB: The food and beverage work in harmony with the look and feel of the restaurant. I believe the menu, as a whole, fits the concept. Our maple-rubbed, smoked St. Louis ribs with housemade barbecue sauce (featuring our home-brewed root beer as an ingredient) is definitely one of my favorites. Our beer list focuses on small production craft brews with an emphasis on local producers. We feature 12 beers on draft as well as 30 different bottled beers. Our wine list is representative of all major wine producing regions while highlighting cult wineries, with all bottles offered at a significant value.

ZB: After focusing on more high-end dining at Excelsior, how enjoyable has it been for you to feature such items as homemade root beer and family-recipe meatloaf on the new menu?

EB: Preparing refined American classics as opposed to creating a gourmet experience has been refreshing. Our guests are responding positively to a menu they can truly relate to. It’s been a great deal of fun cooking this style of cuisine.

ZB: The restaurant is located in the Back Bay but a short stroll from the South End. Who have you seen dining in the restaurant?

EB: Who haven’t we seen! Our location is ideal, being situated between two great neighborhoods. We’re thankful for the diversity of our guests...residents, professionals, tourists, restaurant-industry types. Being a new restaurant, feedback is very important to us. We’ve had our share of positive comments but helpful ones as well. I believe that people genuinely want us to succeed and their support has been welcomed.

ZB: As an experienced chef and a veteran of the local dining scene, who, if anyone, do you look to for ideas and inspiration?

EB: My mom.

– Eric Grossman

Dinner Is On at Haley House

BuzzEditor — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 14:23:00 GMT

Breakfast-and-lunch-only Haley House Bakery Café is breaking into dinner three nights a week. It's extended its hours Wednesday–Fridays until 9 PM (kitchen closes at 8:30 PM), and is now serving organic beer and wine to boot. To celebrate, there will be special deals and events including "pizza and jazz" Wednesdays featuring, well, live jazz and various pizzas; Thursday evening spoken-word readings from 7:30–9 PM; and vegan creations from chef Zakiya Alake from 5–8:30 PM on Fridays (617-445-0900).

NOFA Noshes

BuzzEditor — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:25:00 GMT

On November 14, The Bull Run Restaurant hosts the first annual "NOFA Nourishes Massachusetts" gala dinner, benefiting the Northeast Organic Farming Associations effort to organize local ongoing education and advocacy activities. Beginning with a silent auction and cocktails, the evening will progress with a multicourse dinner created with local and organic ingredients from Massachusetts farmers and producers. Afterward, David Barber, co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns will discuss the importance of small farms (6–9 PM; $100 per person; 215 Great Road/Rt. 2A in Shirley, MA; order tickets here or at http://ticketes.bullrunrestaurant.com).

Dining News Elsewhere: An Illy Invasion, Iron Chef in the White House

BuzzEditor — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 12:09:00 GMT

– Illy is making inroads into U.S. coffee shops. [WSJ]
– Gordon Ramsay is planning to bring the popular MasterChef to the U.S. [THR]
– Sam Kass: assistant White House chef, policy wonk. [NYT]

– Related: Iron Chef America heads to the White House. [NYT]
– After 17 years, Jean-Georges is shutting down Vong. Though maybe not for long? [Eater]
– Learning to compost in Chicago's public schools. [Chicago Tribune]
– More on the affect of calorie counts on menus. [NYT]
– The Kogi Truck folks in LA have their own custom car now. [Mouthing Off]
– Kids menus should grow up. [BG]
– What does your beer choice say about you? [AdAge]
– Yellow Tail isn't the only Aussie wine, y'know. [WSJ]
– One 225,000-ton ship, more than 24 dining options. [EMD]
– Grant Achatz stands sternly in front of an airplane. [GS:C]
– Is it a steak house or a gay bar? [SteakHouseorGayBar]

Dot Dining With Chris Douglass

BuzzEditor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 16:45:00 GMT

Chris Douglas

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

One of the South End's oldest establishments, Icarus, closed earlier this year, leaving chef-owner Chris Douglass to focus on his other eateries (Ashmont Grill and Tavolo), both located in his native Dorchester. The restaurateur took a break from handling the sale of Icarus to chat with the Buzz.

Zagat Buzz: At 30-plus years, Icarus had quite the run. Now that it’s over, how do you feel?

Chris Douglass: 32 years in fact, is an extremely long time in restaurant years. When we opened in 1978, the South End was nothing like the South End of today. There were a few pioneer homeowners and businesses, but it was still a very edgy neighborhood. I really loved being there and being part of its truly remarkable transition. Much of Icarus' success came from having a connection to our neighbors. We started out as a simple neighborhood joint with a blackboard menu, and evolved into one of the city's premier fine-dining establishments. We never lost sight, however, of our goal to provide great food and service. I'm proud of Icarus and the talented team there. It was a rewarding experience for us all.

ZB: Any memories or anecdotes from the early days?

CD: In the early days, we had one customer who always requested the window table. It wasn't for the view; it was so he could keep an eye on his Porsche out at the curb. There was no such thing as valet parking, and one was quite likely to get one's car stolen on Tremont Street.

ZB: For those only familiar with Icarus, who have yet to visit Ashmont Grill or Tavolo, how would you describe each?

CD: The thing that will be most familiar to Icarus customers when they come visit us in Dorchester is the warmth and friendliness of our staffs. We take pride in finding great people who love doing their job and love making the guests happy. The other thing they will be happy to note is we have brought two of Icarus' signature dishes to the restaurants. Grilled shrimp with mango and jalapeño sorbet is available at the Grill, and polenta with exotic mushrooms is served at Tavolo. Also, both restaurants have a great bar scene, and the clientele in both restaurants is very diverse – multiracial, straight, gay, hipster, parishioner, well-heeled, bohemian. It’s very cool. Quite a few leading politicians drop by both places as well.

ZB: You have ties to Dorchester, no? How has the area, and its dining scene, changed over the years?

CD: I've lived here for 20-plus years. It is a dynamic, diverse and community-involved area. Dorchester gets a pretty bum rap in the press, although I believe that is improving. I had wanted to open another restaurant for some time. When I would mention this to friends or neighbors, they were very persuasive in convincing me that Dorchester was desperate and ready to support a good restaurant. In many ways, Dorchester reminds me of the South End back when Icarus first opened: tons of community spirit, people making investments in their homes and making a real commitment to making urban living work. Dorchester is fast becoming a dining destination. In addition to Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, there are a number of really good ethnic restaurants – Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican, Caribbean.

ZB: For those unfamiliar with the Dot dining scene, there are some great, affordable options. Do you have any faves?

CD: I love the beef banh mi at Ba Le and the carnitas burrito at Real Taco, the Indian lunch buffet at Shanti and pho at any number of Vietnamese joints on Dorchester Avenue.

ZB: Final question – is there anything you think the city's culinary scene is lacking?

CD: I and others have been working hard to get a permanent public market established in Boston. We have amazing food resources and traditions in Boston and throughout New England, and we need a venue to highlight and support them. Public markets provide an opportunity for local farmers, fishers, cheesemakers, butchers and other food artisans to market directly to their customers. This is critical to keeping Massachusetts (and New England) involved in agriculture. It also provides a better profit margin, and therefore incentive, to food producers. Those of us involved with food in this region know just how good it can be. Having our own public market to showcase that food – like San Francisco's Ferry Terminal Building or Philadelphia's Reading Market – will show the world just how good it is.

– Eric Grossman

Celeb Chefs Cover the Market

BuzzEditor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 14:18:00 GMT

Barbara Lynch's Drink

Photo: Mike Ritter

Though fine dining may have cooled off a little as a result of the past year’s economic turmoil, celeb chefs remain as popular as ever. And, fortunately, many of them have opened more casual concepts, allowing diners with tighter budgets to get a taste of their culinary vision. But how do these budget-minded sibs stack up against their high-end counterparts? Read up, and then add your own votes and opinions.

Barbara Lynch

One of the first ladies of Boston cuisine, Barbara Lynch's elegant dishes are available at several price ranges – whether you're looking for a tony night on Beacon Hill or casual bites paired with the perfect cocktail.

No. 9 Park

9 Park St.
(bet. Beacon & Tremont Sts.)
Boston, MA 02108
617-742-9991; Reserve Online

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
28	24	27	$75

Barbara Lynch still “dazzles” at her “jewel box”–esque Beacon Hill flagship where “movers and shakers” for whom “money is no object” “celebrate in style” with “elegant”, “intriguing” French-Italian creations that “marry unexpected tastes and textures” with “decadent, heavenly” results; if the “smaller-than-small portions” are occasional balloon-bursters, the “savvy”, “polished” “service team” and “superior” bartenders (“mixology is an art here”, as is wine selection) “heighten the experience” – right on up to “cloud 9.”

Key to Zagat Ratings

Drink

348 Congress St.
(bet. Farnsworth St. & Thomson Pl.)
Boston, MA 02210
617-695-1806

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
-	-	-	I

This classy, pared-down Seaport District American from celebrity chef Barbara Lynch (No. 9 Park) pairs retro ’50s-style canapés – creamy deviled eggs, spicy cocktail wieners – with expertly mixed drinks; a simple wood-block bar snakes around the space, creating intimate corners, while hanging lights warm up the exposed brick and granite walls; N.B. those with insect phobias should steer clear of the glassed-in (dead) beetle display.

Key to Zagat Ratings

Dante de Magistris

With his creative takes on Italian cuisine, Dante de Magistris found success with his eponymous restaurant, and now the toque has spread his wings to open a small-plates, family-style spot in his native Belmont.

dante

Royal Sonesta Hotel | 40 Edwin H. Land Blvd.
(Cambridgeside Pl.)
Cambridge, MA 02142
617-497-4200; Reserve Online

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
24	22	22	$48

The “devastatingly delicious”, “imaginative” Italian creations, “lively wine list” and “assiduous” service at this “modern”, “airy” spot in East Cambridge’s Royal Sonesta “exceed expectations for a hotel restaurant”, even though the “modest” food portions make it somewhat “overpriced”; on the other hand, the “unbelievable Sunday brunch” is a “value”, especially on the “sublime” patio with its “wonderful views of the Charles River.”

Key to Zagat Ratings

Il Casale

Photo: Mike Ritter

Il Casale Cucina Italiana & Bar

50 Leonard St.
(Moore St.)
Belmont, MA 02478
617-209-4942

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
-	-	-	M

Chef Dante de Magistris (dante) draws inspiration from his childhood summers spent in Southern Italy for small plates and family-style dinners served in a renovated 1899 Belmont firehouse, where handcrafted Vermont wood tables and hand-blown Venetian glass lanterns evoke the restaurant’s name (casale means ‘rural home’); the dining room features a communal table overlooking the open kitchen, and there’s sidewalk seating in warmer months.

Table Manners

BuzzEditor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 10:39:00 GMT

City Table has opened in the Lenox hotel.

Photo: courtesy of the Lenox Hotel

The Back Bay New American City Table replaces Azure as the Lenox’s premier dining destination, and though it’s kept the same chef – and retained many menu items – it’s offering more variety (including dinner sandwiches) and a lower price point all-around; it also sports a more casual, comfortable look, with banquettes, hardwood floors, earth tones, votive candles and an expansive bar area with high-top tables.

61 Exeter St.; 617-933-4800

Dining News Elsewhere: PBR For Sale, Wading Into the Tip Pool

BuzzEditor — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:40:00 GMT

– Talking with the troubled Ciprianis. [Vanity Fair]
– The brewery behind PBR and Schlitz is for sale. [NYP]
– Restaurants seek to better manage tip pools. [NRN]

– Western foods are gaining in China. [ABC]
– Where have all the Angostura bitters gone? [Bostonist]
– Who gets all of those 7 PM reservations, anyway? [Between Meals]
– The last days of Gourmet. [Last Days of Gourmet]
– Nation's Restaurant News to go biweekly. [Food Writer's Diary]
– Who needs to tip when you can buy the chef a beer? [GS:C]
– 222.5 pounds? Now that's a big meatball. [MSNBC]
– Could you eat 78 pieces of cutlery? Would you? [Daily Mail, via EMD]
– The manually operated hamburger vending machine. [JapanProbe]

Cooking With Coco

BuzzEditor — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:13:00 GMT

David Chang's pork neck with succotash

Photo and recipe: courtesy of Phaidon Press

For its latest cookbook, Coco, Phaidon Press turned to 10 world-leading chefs – Ferran Adrià, Mario Batali, Shannon Bennett, Alain Ducasse, Fergus Henderson, Yoshihiro Murata, Gordon Ramsay, René Redzepi, Alice Waters and Jacky Yu – to each pick 10 contemporary chefs from around the world. In turn, each of those chefs then wrote a menu and recipes for the book. The final product is more than 400 pages of gorgeous photographs, mouthwatering recipes and interesting tidbits from kitchens around the world. Want a taste? After the jump, get the recipe for pork neck with succotash from New York chef David Chang (of the Momofuku empire).

Pork Neck with Succotash
Serves 4
Recipe by David Chang

For the pork neck
300 g kosher salt
270 g sugar
6 liters hot water
2 bay leaves
25 g black peppercorns
6 liters cold water
10 g pink salt
1 pork neck

Mix the salt, sugar, hot water, bay leaves, and black peppercorns.
Mix the cold water with the pink salt.
Add the pork neck and confit 5 hours at 300°F (150°C) covered.
When tender, press between 2 sheet trays. Portion into serving size pieces.
Crisp on a griddle or pan to heat through.

For the succotash
100 g ground (minced) smoked, think-cut pork belly
12 g chanterelle mushrooms
250 g lima (butter) beans
175 g corn (sweetcorn) kernels
Butter for sautéing
1 tbsp tarragon, chopped
4 ml buttermilk
120 g butter
130 g arugula (rocket)

Sauté the pork belly, chanterelles, lima beans, and corn in a pan.
Finish with a pinch of salt and pepper, chopped tarragon, buttermilk, butter, and arugula.

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:59:00 GMT

A bit out of the way and not worth finding.

Zagat Buzz: Boston

Outtake of the Week

Masa Munchies for Black Friday

Masa's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Dining News Elsewhere: Obese Americans, Ramsay Loses His Number Two

Late Nights at the Biltmore

Biltmore Bar & Grille

Photo: Mike Ritter

Pairing Practice

Photo: courtesy of Sweet Solutions

Dining News Elsewhere: Koodies, Samuelsson Goes to Washington

Sensing Gerard Barbin

Gerard Barbin

Photo: courtesy of Sensing

– Eric Grossman

Singh-ing in Wellesley Hills

Explore Tandoor

Mantra

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Dining News Elsewhere: Buzzy Booze, Subway in the Sky

Outtake of the Week

Summer Winter Beer Blast

Summer Winter

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Dining News Elsewhere: Drink Preferences, Raw Oyster Brouhahah

Outtakes: Cruise Lines Edition

Stoddard's Imminent, AKA on the Way

Tailgating at Tavolo

Dining News Elsewhere: Arby's Troubles, Food-Fight Arrests

Littlenecking in Weymouth

Littlenecks Bar & Grill

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Jean-Georges Goes to Market

Market

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Zagat To Go, Now On Android

Top of the Hub Visits New York

Dining News Elsewhere: Kraft Goes Hostile, Food Cart Love

Outtake of the Week

Turkey Time: Thanksgiving '09

Photo: Ion Sokhos

1 Seaport Ln.; 617-385-4300

399 Grove St., Newton Lower Falls; 617-454-3399

40 Edwin H. Land Blvd., Cambridge; 617-497-4200

75 Arlington St.; 617-357-4810

290 Patriot Pl., Foxboro; 508-339-4810

528 Commonwealth Ave.; 617-532-9100

61 Lowell Rd., Groton; 978-448-2900

44 Brattle St., Cambridge; 617-868-2255

Multiple locations

406 Stuart St.; 617-399-0015

1217 Main St., Hingham; 781-749-8200

378 Highland Ave., Somerville; 617-628-2877

Dining News Elsewhere: Obesity and Cancer, Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls

Eric Brennan's New Post

Post 390

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

– Eric Grossman

Dinner Is On at Haley House

NOFA Noshes

Dining News Elsewhere: An Illy Invasion, Iron Chef in the White House

Dot Dining With Chris Douglass

Chris Douglas

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

– Eric Grossman

Celeb Chefs Cover the Market

Barbara Lynch's Drink

Photo: Mike Ritter

Barbara Lynch

9 Park St. (bet. Beacon & Tremont Sts.) Boston, MA 02108 617-742-9991; Reserve Online

348 Congress St. (bet. Farnsworth St. & Thomson Pl.) Boston, MA 02210 617-695-1806

Dante de Magistris

Royal Sonesta Hotel | 40 Edwin H. Land Blvd. (Cambridgeside Pl.) Cambridge, MA 02142 617-497-4200; Reserve Online

Il Casale

Photo: Mike Ritter

50 Leonard St. (Moore St.) Belmont, MA 02478 617-209-4942

Table Manners

City Table has opened in the Lenox hotel.

Photo: courtesy of the Lenox Hotel

9 Park St.
(bet. Beacon & Tremont Sts.)
Boston, MA 02108
617-742-9991; Reserve Online

348 Congress St.
(bet. Farnsworth St. & Thomson Pl.)
Boston, MA 02210
617-695-1806

Royal Sonesta Hotel | 40 Edwin H. Land Blvd.
(Cambridgeside Pl.)
Cambridge, MA 02142
617-497-4200; Reserve Online

50 Leonard St.
(Moore St.)
Belmont, MA 02478
617-209-4942