Zagat Buzz: San Francisco

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:38:00 GMT

Why the attitude? No one else is eating here.

Som Enchanted Evening

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:51:00 GMT

Som

Photo: courtesy of the lounge

Behind a facade of artfully lit wine bottles lies Som, a music-focused Mission newcomer whose sleek, minimalist interior sports a walnut-topped bar, some black-leather seating and not much more – which leaves plenty of room for dancing to Brazilian beats (som is Portuguese for ‘sound’) on Wednesdays and just about any other musical genre you can think of the rest of the week; generally moderately priced, the cocktail menu is short but sweet, highlighted by a few classic concoctions made with top-shelf ingredients.

2925 16th St.; 415-431-8889

Dining News Elsewhere: Obese Americans, Ramsay Loses His Number Two

BuzzEditor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:22:00 GMT

– By 2018, 43% of Americans are expected to be obese. [NYDN]
– Gordon Ramsay has lost his right-hand man. [Bloomberg]
– The Senate is considering requiring beef to be tested for E. coli. [NYT]

– Top Chef contestants aren't being paid for the TV dinners that feature their faces (and recipes). [Time]
– First canned pumpkins, now an Eggo shortage looms. [NYDN]
– The art of complaining to a restaurant. [Guardian]
– A modest proposal for fixing restaurant and bar smoking bans. [Eater]
– Related: the science behind banning smoking outside. [Time]
– Ever wonder what it would be like to cook dinner for Thomas Keller? [Esquire]
– Talking cooking with Coolio. [Fork in the Road]
– NBC's newest cooking show, United Plates of America, will give away a four-restaurant chain. [Reuters]
– Hey, so, while you eat that sushi, this guy here is going to swallow a sword. [WSJ]
– Starbucks continues to roll out its unbranded coffee shops. [Diner's Journal]
– If New York loses its lawsuit, Tavern on the Green will become Tavern in the Park. [Crain's]
– Restaurants embrace Twilight. [NRN]
– Martha Stewart is not a fan of Rachael Ray. [ABC News, via EMD and GS]
– The Rolling Stones, the wine. [Examiner]
– Pork belly and other over-served dishes. [Between Meals]
– Students arrested for not paying their tip. [Philly]
– Plastic wishbones: what will the kids fight over? [SE]

Two More Nights of TWO

BuzzEditor — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:54:00 GMT

Although he’s still hosting private parties, chef-owner David Gingrass has decided to close his SoMa restaurant TWO ahead of schedule, making way for its replacement, benu, in 2010. If you'd like one more meal at TWO, however, the last dinner service is tomorrow night, and there are still reservations available (415-777-9779).

No More Nouveau

BuzzEditor — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:33:00 GMT

Not one to get into the Beaujolais spirit? You aren't alone. In fact, one contrarian wine merchant is hosting a no-holds-barred “No More Nouveau” wine tasting in honor of the big day, choosing instead to uncork the best of Cru Beaujolais wines from France’s top natural winemakers. On Thursday, November 19, Arlequin Wine Merchant, which is part of the Absinthe and Arlequin café trilogy in Hayes, will be celebrating what they call the “real” Beaujolais from award-winning Cru Beaujolais producers including Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Pierre Chermette, Jean Paul Brun, Alain Coudert, John-Paul Thévenet and more. These wines are made using the so-called vieux (old) way, fermented on natural yeasts and bottled unfiltered, resulting in a wine that’s richer, broader and boasts denser reds than the Beaujolais Nouveau most wine drinkers are familiar with (6–8 PM; $15 per person; 384 Hayes St, all featured wines will be available for purchase at special event pricing).

For a taste of some less-nouveau Beaujolais, head over to RN74, where sommelier Ragat Parr won’t be pouring the new stuff, but rather will be opening a bountiful selection of Beaujolais from 2005–2008, available by the bottle or by the glass.

Dining News Elsewhere: Koodies, Samuelsson Goes to Washington

BuzzEditor — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:25:00 GMT

– Marcus Samuelsson will be working the kitchen at Obama's first state dinner. [Obama Foodorama]
– The fight for Cadbury intensifies. [WSJ]
– Chipotle sets its sights on London, Europe. [NRN]

– Costco drops Coke. [AP]
– Related: Coke bottles, 1899–1986. [Pixdaus]
– Milk producers wish they could sell their product "raw." [NYT]
– Hooters is having trouble in Vegas. [Eater]
– A canned pumpkin shortage looms. [Diner's Journal]
– Putting things in perspective with the Fat Map. [HP]
– Jamie Oliver wants to help you find a date. [Marketing]
– A Shake Shack in Boston looks increasingly possible. [GS:B]
– What a $20 Thanksgiving feast from Walmart gets you. [The Awl]
– A word we'd like to quickly forget? "Koodie." [SE]
– Foods named after people. [Mental Floss and Cakespy, via SE]
– They found water on the moon...can you drink it? [Slate]
– Making mushrooms with coffee grinds. [Chronicle, via Coldmud]
– Making art with meat, some wires, a videocamera and a stove. [EMD]

Gingerbread Wishes

BuzzEditor — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:39:00 GMT

One Market's gingerbread kit

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Here’s a fun and tasty way to channel your inner pastry chef: throughout the month of November, guests at Lark Creek Steak, Lark Creek Walnut Creek, One Market, Tavern at Lark Creek and Yankee Pier can decorate a star-shaped gingerbread cookie, and in the process, raise money for the Make-A-Wish Foundation. The cookies will be featured on the dessert menu during all meal services, cost $10 and are presented tableside with a decorating kit. Similar kits can also be ordered to-go, since every sweet adds up. The entirety of the proceeds benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation, and according to the restaurant group, it’s raised more than $32,000 through the annual Gingerbread Wishes campaign since 2007.

Bringing Back Bruno's

BuzzEditor — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:51:00 GMT

Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Bruno's, the onetime Rat Pack hang in the Mission, is aiming to lure back serious diners with a small, rotating, midpriced menu from chefs Ryan Ostler and Katharine Zacher, whose made-from-scratch American comfort and soul food (think 20-hour smoked brisket, pulled pork sandwiches and homemade Whoopie Pie) won raves at the dive bar Broken Records; the retro setting features a leopard-print carpet, red leather banquettes and a mural depicting Kewpie dolls and other iconic kitsch.

2389 Mission St.; 415-643-5200

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Been to Bruno's? Write a review
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Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Getting Into That Beaujolais Spirit

BuzzEditor — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:27:00 GMT

Photo: courtesy of FI:AF

Celebrating the release of the new Beaujolais vintage on the third Thursday in November is a Gallic tradition that local party-goers and wine buffs have long embraced. This year, the fresh run-off will be hitting our shores on November 19, and with it comes charcuterie and wine-fueled partying at French Quarter haunts like Café Bastille, Café Claude and Gitane, as well as at bistros and brasseries throughout the Bay Area. To add to the buzz, longtime producer Georges Duboeuf has already gone on record predicting the 2009 vintage will be one of the best Beaujolais vintages in the last 50 years.

Here are some more ways to partake in French savoir-vivre.

Roland Passot’s chain of Left Bank brasseries will be offering a range of à la carte specials along with the regular menu on the big day. In Menlo Park, highlights include pithiviers de canard (duck and pork with a port wine sauce, $10) and poire pochée au Beaujolais Nouveau (pear poached in Beaujolais with vanilla crème fraîche, $7) to go along with Mommessin wine. At the Santana Row outpost in San Jose, specials include saucisses grillées (housemade pork sausages, red-wine braised lentils and baby vegetables, $16), while at the Larkspur flagship, guests can order special courses like as sandre aux échalottes confites (walleye, shallot confit and savoy cabbage, $19.75) or craft their own three-course prix fixe from the holiday options ($36 per person). At all three locations, there will be Mommessin wine available by the glass ($6.50), carafe ($16.25) or bottle ($26) to round off the meal.

Vive le Nouveau at Grand Cafe, Downtown’s paean to La Coupole, which on November 19 will host an evening of festivities, starting with the official tapping of the wine barrel and a complimentary glass of the 2009 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau and appetizers at the bar. Celebrants then move on to the grand dining room for a three-course prix fixe (5:30–10 PM: $39 per person, $54 with recommended wine pairing; 415-292-0101).

For something more down-home but equally fun, Cole Valley’s Zazie will be decorated with grapes and red cloths while the staff and customers are encouraged to wear their most outrageous red outfits. A special three-course dinner will include le potimaroon for two (roasted sugar pie pumpkin filled with cheese fondue and toasted baguette), braised duck leg with dried plums and butternut squash and chestnut ravioli (seatings at 5:30 PM, 9:15 PM and 9:30 PM still available; $49 per person including pairings with three Beaujolais Nouveaus; to reserve call 415-564-5332).

Later that weekend, on November 21, the French American Chamber of Commerce will be hosting its 28th annual La Soirée at the Hyatt Regency – an evening promising French food, first wines, dancing and silent auctions (5:30–9:30 PM: $60 per non-member, $50 per member; to purchase tickets, click here).

Also on November 21, the annual alfresco Parisian celebration at Café Fanny will happen in Berkeley, with a tent full of live music, food courtesy of former Chez Panisse and Eccolo chef Chris Lee and wines sold by Kermit Lynch (11 AM–4 PM; admission is free, but tipples and nibbles will be sold separately; 510-524-5447).

Dining News Elsewhere: Buzzy Booze, Subway in the Sky

BuzzEditor — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:51:00 GMT

– The FDA is targeting caffeinated booze. [WSJ]
– Meanwhile, its efforts to ban eating raw oysters didn't work out so well. [NYT]
– Burger King franchisees lose 10¢ for every $1 double cheeseburger sold. [NRN]

– A special Subway franchise is set to rise up with the Freedom Tower in New York. [NYP]
– U.S. chicken production is set to fall for the first time in 36 years. [Reuters]
– Champagne sales are a bit flat these days. [NYT]
– Musicians do covers of other bands' hits, why shouldn't chefs cover other toques' recipes? [Guardian]
– Pinkberry's further expansion plans include Boston, DC, New Orleans and Mexico. [Eater]
– Why we read cookbooks. [The New Yorker]
– Want a new drug? Synthetic alcohol isn't out of the question. [Scotsman, via ColdMud]
– Just when we've gotten used to twist-off tops, get ready for wine in a plastic bottle. [Stuff]
– Things a restaurant patron should never do. [Applesauce]
– Related, 10 dirty restaurant tricks. [Slashfood]
– Peace through hummus. [Economist]
– Hard to turn down a "love dessert" made with passion fruit and...Viagra. [NYDN]

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:52:00 GMT

Authenticity has never been more perfectly faked.

Thanksgiving '09: Outside SF

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:18:00 GMT

Lake Chalet

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

If you're not celebrating Thanksgiving in the city, consider enjoying your holiday feast at one of these Bay Area restaurants:

Marin and Wine Country

Bardessono

6526 Yount St., Yountville; 707-204-6030

Details are still being worked out, but this eco-chic Yountville New American promises a traditional Thanksgiving menu served family-style (noon–8 PM; $55 per adult, $25 per child 10 and under).

Brix

7377 St. Helena Hwy., Napa; 707-944-2749

Chef Anne Gingrass-Paik will prepare a garden-to-table, three-course prix fixe at this Napa Cal-Med – think roast turkey with fennel sausage and sourdough stuffing with Brussels sprouts, yams and cranberry sauce (2–8 PM; $62 per adult, $20 per child; wine pairings available for an additional $35 per person).

Dry Creek Kitchen

317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-431-0330

Charlie Palmer’s New American in Healdsburg is offering a three-course holiday menu with leg “torchon” and roasted breast, accompanied by a cherry marmalade and sourdough stuffing gratin, plus starters like pork belly "Napoleon" and ahi carpaccio. Bonus: if you tote in local Sonoma wine, the corkage fee is waived (2–7 PM; $65 per person).

Left Bank

507 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-927-3331

Like its Santana Row and Menlo Park brethren, the Larkspur flagship of this French chainlet will be serving a four-course prix fixe that ranges from a traditional turkey spread to more Franco-inspired fare like smoked rack of pork with celery root mousseline, plus a vegetarian-friendly autumn risotto with seasonal mushroom fricassee. Limited à la carte options and a kids' menu will also be available (noon–8 PM; $39.75 per person).

Poggio

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito; 415-332-7771

Mangia Italian-style at this Sausalito trattoria whose prix fixe menu will showcase the fall vegetable harvest from its own organic garden. The meal, available throughout the day, begins with a choice of starters followed by free-range turkey cooked two ways and served with traditional sides (11:30 AM–9:30 PM; $45 per person).

Tavern at Lark Creek

234 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-924-7766

Heritage turkey is the main star of the meal at this reinvented Larkspur restaurant, where new chef Randy Lewis prepares a three-course prix fixe with options for each course, including fall squash soup topped with a ginger beer–sage sabayon and a pork chop with dried cranberry tapenade and oven roasted potatoes (noon–8 PM; $59 per adult, $24 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

Yankee Pier

multiple locations

Sure, you can get your plate-o' turkey with the fixings at this New England–style seafooder's four locations, but you can also break with tradition by ordering a boiled whole Maine lobster, available as part of this three-course T-Day menu (1–8 PM; $39 per adult, $19.95 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

East Bay

Five

2086 Allston Way, Berkeley; 510-845-7300

At the newly renovated Hotel Shattuck Plaza, chef Scott Howard’s sustainable, local à la carte menu includes starters like braised pork belly with gigante beans, while mains include a smoked glazed pork chop, petrale sole with Dungeness crab mashed potatoes and, of course, roasted turkey with yukon potato purée, chestnut stuffing and gravy (seatings at 3, 5 and 7 PM).

Lake Chalet

1520 Lakeside Dr., Oakland; 510-208-5253

With its plentiful sunshine and lake views, this Oakland newcomer in the Lake Merritt Boathouse will be serving an all-day buffet featuring roasted turkey, prime rib and grilled salmon with traditional sides including stuffing, cranberry sauce, candied yams, glazed carrots, pecan salad and mashed potatoes, plus pumpkin and pecan pie (10 AM–10 PM; $32 per adult, $16 per child 11 and under, $26 per senior).

Lark Creek Walnut Creek

1360 Locust St., Walnut Creek; 925-256-1234

Thanksgiving is a no-brainer at this Walnut Creek American, where chef Scott Wall will roll out a three-course menu with Dungeness crab cakes, roast turkey with garlic mashed potatoes, sage cornbread stuffing, candied yams, giblet gravy and cranberry sauce. The all-American wine list makes it easy to keep to the patriot theme (1–8 PM; $49 per adult, $25 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

Miss Pearl’s Jam House

1 Broadway, Oakland; 510-444-7171

Forget the Parker rolls and bland turkey, and opt instead for Jamaican skillet bread, spiced sweet potato fries and jerk chicken at Joey Altman's Caribbean spot in Jack London Square (noon–9 PM; à la carte only).

Picán

2295 Broadway, Oakland; 510-834-1000

At this Southern restaurant in Uptown, the four-course, family-style meal includes pecan wood–smoked turkey, mustard-glazed ham, corn spoonbread, oyster, crawfish and andouille stuffing, sweet potato gratin and a serve-yourself dessert bar (seatings at 11 AM, 1 and 3 PM; $49 per adult, $25 per child 12 and under).

South

Aquarius

175 W. Cliff Dr., Santa Cruz; 831-460-5012

Panoramic ocean views and surfer-chic decor complete a picture-perfect setting for Turkey Day at this modern American bistro in the newly renovated Santa Cruz Dream Inn. As for the meal, options on the three-course prix fixe include herb-roasted turkey and Angus prime rib, both served with three accompaniments (2–9 PM; $35 per person; à la carte menu also available).

LB Steak

334 Santana Row, San Jose; 408-244-1180

At Roland Passot’s Santana Row steakhouse, in addition to a limited à la carte menu, there will be two four-course prix fixes available. One features roasted turkey breast with leg confit, leeks served with chanterelles, Brussels sprouts with lardoons and cranberry relish ($22.50 per person), while the other showcases Omaha prime rib of beef au jus with Yukon gold mashed potatoes, fall vegetables gâteau and horseradish cream sauce ($30 per person). Both menus come with soup, salad and dessert (noon–8 PM).

Madera

2825 Sand Hill Rd., Menlo Park; 650-561-1500

At this Menlo Park New American, chef Peter Rudolph will serve a three-course holiday menu with choices including braised pheasant leg, rotisserie turkey breast stuffed with porcini and turkey sausage, sides like carrots, salsify and nettles and a crab apple crostada. Want wine with that? Recommendations for each course will be available (11 AM–9 PM; $95 per person).

Plumed Horse

14555 Big Basin Way, Saratoga; 408-867-4711

Diners can trot to this tony Saratoga Californian for a prix fixe menu of traditional Thanksgiving offerings plus some of the restaurant's signature dishes (3–8 PM; $80 per person).

Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay

1 Miramontes Point Rd., Half Moon Bay; 650-712-7000

The Ritz is offering an array of options. A daytime Harvest Brunch, accompanied by a live jazz trio, will be served in the ballroom (noon–5 PM; $98 per adult, $49 per child five–12, free for children four and under; includes admission to the "Family Fun Zone"). The hotel's flagship Navio restaurant will serve a four-course sit-down dinner (1–9 PM; $108 per person, includes a bag of homemade pumpkin cookies to go). Finally, a Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the trimmings can be enjoyed in The Conservatory Lounge from noon–9 PM ($32 per person).

Dining News Elsewhere: Drink Preferences, Raw Oyster Brouhahah

BuzzEditor — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:12:00 GMT

– A whole lot of info on what diners like to drink. [R&I]
– Should the FDA try to prevent you from eating raw oysters? [NYT, Slate]
– Burger King franchisees are suing over $1 double cheeseburgers. [Miami Herald]

– Meanwhile, McDonald's plans for the future. [CNN]
– The backlash to the list of waiter no-nos is on. [XX, Server not Servant]
– How to act around a celebrity chef. [Atlantic]
– The U.K. now has its own version of the Food Network. [Eater]
– Related: Emeril Lagasse is planning a prime-time variety show not on the Food Network. [ABC]
– Mario Batali makes his film debut in The Fantastic Mr. Fox. [WSJ]
– Heston Blumenthal plans a wildly expensive Christmas dinner for a TV special featuring ambergris, aka whale vomit. [Sun]
– Jamie Oliver has seen a backlash for the salt content of his pasta sauces. [Guardian]
– Cooking With Coolio, the cookbook, is now on sale. [EMD]
– Remembering New York City's 1935 ban on baby artichokes. [Diner's Journal]
– Don't be embarrassed to dine out alone. [Between Meals]
– Raising a vegetarian child without the conflict. [LAT]
– Can drunken fruit flies help cure alcoholism? [Wired]
– Looking to find free grub for the rug rats? Try here. [Kids Eat For, via SE]
– Deep-fried turkey disasters. On video. [EMD]

Outtakes: Cruise Lines Edition

BuzzEditor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:28:00 GMT

Each time we perform a survey here at Zagat we inevitably find ourselves with a slew of amusing outtakes that aren't quite fit for print. Which doesn't mean they aren't entertaining. Here are a few of our favorites from our just completed Cruise Lines survey:

A conga line is not conducive to good digestion.

No activities for anyone who isn't an alcoholic seeking random sex.

They cater to the newly wed and nearly dead.

Great if you like hairy chest contests.

A rust bucket filled with rowdy people.

The more you booze, the better you cruise.

Bathrooms so small you have to sit on the toilet sideways.

It does attract a crowd – it's called ‘God's floating waiting room.'

Tailgating at Acme

BuzzEditor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:12:00 GMT

Still looking for a place to watch the game tonight? Tailgate in style (and inside) at Acme Chophouse during tonight's home game against the Chicago Bears. From 4:30–10 PM, the restaurant’s bar and lounge area will offer happy-hour specials, including $3 draft beers, $4 select wines by the glass and $5 specialty cocktails, plus $5 snacks for munching (415-644-0240).

Talking High Stakes With Michael Mina

BuzzEditor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:27:00 GMT

Michael Mina

Photo: Hernan F. Rodriguez

With an award-winning cookbook, accolades including a James Beard Foundation Best Chef award and 17 restaurants across the country, chef Michael Mina is a household name in the industry. During the the Savor Borgata event in Atlantic City, where Mina was cooking for 700 people, the Buzz sat down with the chef to find out, among other things, what he considers to be his biggest gamble of his career.

Zagat Buzz: Welcome to the East Coast! What are you preparing for tonight’s event?

Michael Mina: I’ll be making a Nantucket bay scallop ceviche with horseradish panna cotta and tomato gelee, and a butter-poached lobster with sweet-potato crepe and coconut curry broth.

ZB: Your restaurants are a popular draw in Las Vegas and here in Atlantic City. Did you open restaurants in these spots because you like to gamble?

MM: (Laughs). No, no, I don’t gamble at all. I enjoy it, but I have too many restaurants in casinos that I would end up writing them a check every month!

ZB: What do you consider as the biggest gamble you’ve taken in your career?

MM: Probably when I left Aqua in San Francisco and ventured out on my own to open Michael Mina. I put a lot of money and time in the establishment, and that was a big gamble. Thankfully, it worked out.

ZB: Why haven’t you placed your bets on a restaurant in New York City yet?

MM: I absolutely love New York, but there are a couple of reasons that I'm not there. The main reason is that I enjoy NY too much. My best friend lives there, and when I go I really enjoy myself. I'm not saying that I wouldn't enjoy myself if I opened a restaurant there, but it would be different and I would feel a lot more pressure. Plus, there are just so many big chefs in New York, so if I am going to open there, I will have to put in an enormous amount of effort. I have two young boys right now so the timing isn’t right for the focus and effort required.

ZB: How much do you feel that dining guides affect your business?

MM: All of the guides affect business. Zagat especially has an enormous impact on the restaurant business here in the U.S. But dining guides are important for the restaurant business around the world.

ZB: How many restaurants are you planning on opening in 2010?

MM: The only restaurant we have planned to do right now is American Fish in Las Vegas’ CityCenter. I am really excited about it, as the opening is really right around the corner. I did a walk through of the building last week and it is beautiful, really spectacularly designed. I have a lot to live up to there.

–Kathleen Squires

Farming Out Arelquin

BuzzEditor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:27:00 GMT

Arlequin is the latest restaurant to open a booth at the Thursday farmer's market at the Ferry Building Marketplace. Conveniently located next to Blue Bottle Coffee’s stand (for the ultimate synergy), the booth features weekly changing baked goods from executive pastry chef Luis Villavelazquez and sous-chef Carrie Collins (who also provide pastries for Absinthe). Look for fare like beignets filled with nutella, custard and maple bacon, kabosu lime–filled coconut cupcakes and an assortment of vegan cupcakes and cookies.

Dining News Elsewhere: Arby's Troubles, Food-Fight Arrests

BuzzEditor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:01:00 GMT

– Trying to save New Orleans' po' boys. [NYT]
– 25 children were recently arrested in Chicago for...a food fight. [NYT]
– The recession has been especially hard on Arby's. [Slate]

– Meanwhile, Uno Express has opened 160 locations in the past 15 months. [BG]
– Consumers expect to spend less on dining out next year. [NRN]
– Starbucks tries a new look out in London. [BrandRepublic, via Eater]
– Obama's pastry chef, the "Crustmaster." [AP]
– Top Chef contestant Dale Levitski takes over Chicago newcomer Sprout. [GS: C]
– Despite being an international restaurateur himself, Gordon Ramsay blasts international restaurant chains. [Daily Record]
– The Food Network seeks America's worst cooks. [Variety]
– Related: What Would Brian Boitano Make? gets picked up for a second season. [EMD]
– Health-wise, is chocolate milk the new red wine? [NYT]
– Related: finally, a scientific reason why red wines (mostly) don't go well with fish. [Economist]
– Actually? French women do get fat. [Reuters]
– Why must restaurant websites be so terrible? [Between Meals]
– An undrinkable beer from the Hindenburg disaster is up for sale. [NYP]
– A tofurky-flavored soda? [SE]

Cracking Open Mayes Oyster House

BuzzEditor — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:44:00 GMT

Mayes Oytser House

Photo: Kevin Bond

Mayes Oyster House, a reinvented Barbary Coast–era (circa 1867) fish house and saloon in Polk Gulch, is attracting modern-day prospectors with midpriced seafood classics such as oysters and clams on the rocks and shrimp scampi, as well as newfangled fare like lobster ceviche, kamikaze shooters and Kobe sirloin with foie gras sauce; open until 2 AM on Fridays and Saturdays, the dark-lit, tin-ceilinged setting exudes a bordello vibe, with velvet wallpaper, myriad mirrors and a copper-topped bar where guests can nurse a vintage cocktail in front of a gas fireplace.

1233 Polk St.; 415-474-7674

See more new restaurants in San Francisco

Mayes Oytser House

Photo: Kevin Bond

Turkey Time: Thanksgiving '09

BuzzEditor — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:50:00 GMT

Photo: Ion Sokhos

A Thanksgiving dinner where you don't have to clean up afterward is truly something to be thankful about. The following restaurants are offering meals for gobbling on November 26.

Ame

689 Mission St.; 415-284-4040

Let Hiro be your hero this Thanksgiving day, when in addition to his regular menu, chef Sone offers a special five-course tasting menu at his SoMa spot in the St. Regis. The menu is still being finalized, but options being mulled include tuna tartare, roasted squash soup, seared Hokkaido scallops and the pièce de résistance , a turkey “porchetta” (4–8 PM; $85 per person; wine pairings cost an additional $65).

Americano

8 Mission St.; 415-278-3777

Only “good, clean and fair” ingredients will go into chef Paul Arenstam’s Slow Food–inspired meal at this Downtown venue. The three-course meal includes roasted butternut squash soup with crème fraîche and Dungeness crab and a family-style Thanksgiving platter filled with all-natural heritage turkey, Brussels sprouts with lemon confit and chestnuts, Hog Island oyster and fennel sausage stuffing, creamy mashed potatoes and cranberry-orange relish. Good thing the Embarcadero is right across the street so you can walk some of it off afterward (seatings still available at 2:30 and 3 PM; $85 per adult, $35 per child under 12; additional wine pairings cost $25).

Beach Chalet Brewery and Park Chalet

1000 Great Hwy.; 415-386-8439

Admire the crashing surf of the Pacific while downing freshly brewed suds or bubbly Cali-style at these twin restaurants situated at the western tip of San Francisco. In addition to the traditional bird, the Beach Chalet offers choices like rack of lamb, dayboat scallops and vegetarian pasta as part of its three-course prix fixe (noon–10 PM; $39 per adult, $19 per child under 12), while the Park Chalet will be offering a bottomless champagne buffet featuring traditional favorites and alternatives like peel-and-eat shrimp, Caesar salad, house-smoked salmon flatbread and chocolate-dipped strawberries (noon–10 PM; $39 per adult, $19 per child under 12).

Epic Roasthouse

369 The Embarcadero; 415-369-9955

This waterfront roasthouse is a strong contender for an epic Thanksgiving meal, offering a four-course dinner full of choices. If wood-oven-roasted Branigan turkey with andouille stuffing and fixings isn’t your thing, there’s also pan-roasted Maine scallops or pumpkin gnocchi, while desserts include warm apple tart with vanilla-whipped mascarpone and persimmon pudding laced with spiced pecans, bourbon ice cream and caramel sauce. Finally, a turkey sandwich "with the works" is available to-go for $20 (1:30–6:30 PM; $85 per adult; $40 per child 12 and under; supplemental wine pairings cost $35).

Garibaldi’s on Presidio

347 Presidio Ave.; 415-563-8841

At this Pac Heights mainstay offering a three-course prix fixe, traditionalists can enjoy roast Diestel turkey with all the trimmings, while those wanting something else can opt for grilled New York steak, gnocchi or halibut (1:30–7:30 PM; $60 per person).

Michael Mina

335 Powell St.; 415-397-9222

The details for Mina's three-course menu haven’t been worked out yet, but don't delay if interested, as reservations will surely get booked quickly (4:30–9 PM; $125 per person).

Millennium

580 Geary St.; 415-345-3900

The bird isn't the word at this Downtown vegetarian, which claims Thanksgiving is its biggest day of the year. Feast on a five-course meal featuring housemade walnut bread, roasted chestnuts, barley–wild rice risotto, truffled potato custard, gingerbread ice cream and more (2–8 PM; $60 per adult, $30 per child under 12).

One Market Restaurant

1 Market St.; 415-777-5577

In addition to roasted Willie Bird turkey with cornbread stuffing, root vegetables and shallot-thyme gravy, chef Mark Dommen's three-course menu offers fare like mushroom risotto with herb salad, pumpkin soup with marshmallows and a roasted fall-squash skewer. We’re betting that with pumpkin brioche bread pudding, you’ll never miss the pie (1–8 PM; $59 per person, $29 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

Palio d’Asti

640 Sacramento St.; 415-395-9800

Guests will say grazie mille at this Downtown Italian throwing down a holiday spread with mains such as braised turkey doused with a bourbon-gin gravy, grilled wild boar chops, osso buco and pumpkin ravioli with Brussels sprouts, along with a selection of dolci for dessert (3–8 PM; $59 per adult; children 13 and younger pay their age).

supperclub

657 Harrison St.; 415-348-0900

Typically, you want to climb into bed after you’ve pigged out on Thanksgiving. At this SoMa supper club, guests are encouraged to enjoy the whole darn four-course meal in the on-site beds. There will also be the usual DJs, special performances and antics (7:30 PM; $55 per person).

Vitrine

125 Third St., 4th fl.; 415-284-4049

In honor of the holiday, chef Romuald Feger will offer three fall-inspired specials in addition to his regular brunch menu, including roasted organic turkey breast with sweet potato and banana mousseline, cranberry sauce and cornbread; red kuri squash soup with roasted fall vegetables; and "Grandma’s" pumpkin pie (11 AM–2 PM; dishes priced à la carte).

Zagat To Go, Now On Android

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:29:00 GMT

Finally, something that both the iPhone and the Droid does: Zagat To Go, our popular smartphone application for finding ratings and reviews of over 40,000 restaurants, hotels, nightlife and shopping worldwide, has come to Google's Android phone OS. And not only can you search for your favorite spots, the home-screen widget will offer you a randomly selected nearby restaurant for you to try. To get the app, which costs just $9.99, point your finger to the Android Marketplace.

Best-o-Burger Grows

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:02:00 GMT

Not to be overshadowed by the recent wave of burger-joint openings (Acme Burgerhaus, Burger Bar), Best-O-Burger has launched its second location in the food court at 1 Market Plaza near Spear Street (not to be confused with the restaurant One Market). Open from 10 AM–3 PM weekdays only, it serves the same petite iron-skillet sliders, shakes, Strings and Ring-O's as the original Belden Place locale (415-882-1717).

Dining News Elsewhere: Kraft Goes Hostile, Food Cart Love

BuzzEditor — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 11:56:00 GMT

– Cadbury has rejected Kraft's hostile £9.8 billion bid. [WSJ]
– McDonald's is set to launch a $1 breakfast menu. [WSJ]
– How did food carts become media darlings? [BlackBook]

– Related: a clever Pratt student comes up with a way to eat street food on the street. [Midtown Lunch]
– Ruby Tuesday has spent upwards of $100 million to upgrade its brand. [NYT]
– The birth of Subway's $5 foot-long. [Bussiness Week]
– Celebrating Veteran's Day with restaurant deals. [NRN]
– It had to happen: a Twitter-based reservation service launches in SF. [GS:SF]
– Frank Bruni's Born Round, the TV show?. [GS:NY]
– David Chang blogs his book tour for GQ. [GQ]
– Did Gossip Girl stop the "speakeasy" trend in its tracks? [The Atlantic]
– Foods that can cause headaches. [Divine Caroline]
– One angry diner. [NYP]
– American fast food you can't get in the U.S. [SquidInk, via Eater]

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:54:00 GMT

It was good, but not nearly as good as the employees kept telling me.

Don't Pupu This

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:38:00 GMT

As part of its ongoing Monday night prixe fixe special, the otherwise sophisticated Jardinière is letting down its hair and going a little tiki-tacky on Monday, November 9, laying out a three-course spread that begins with – what else? – an updated pupu platter (chicken wings, seafood poke and hearts of palm spring rolls), followed by a banana leaf–steamed cod, pork belly and pineapple rice and a passion-fruit tartlet. All three courses come with specially paired wines, but what would a tiki bar be without some massive, vintage tropical drinks. To that end, the restaurant has invited bar impresario Martin Cate (of Forbidden Island in Alameda, and the forthcoming Smuggler’s Cove) to guest bar-tend for the evening ($45 per person, reservations are encouraged, and can be made online or at 415-861-5555).

Dining News Elsewhere: Obesity and Cancer, Bacon-Wrapped Matzoh Balls

BuzzEditor — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:58:00 GMT

– A baguette dropped by a bird stopped the Large Hadron Collider. [Times]
– Linking obesity and cancer. [MSNBC]
– Scripps (which owns the Food Network) sets its sights on the Travel Channel. [EMD]

– Jamie Oliver, upholder of justice. [Telegraph]
– How wine became a "fast food." [Daily Beast]
– Daniel Boulud sets his sights on London. [Bloomberg]
– LA's Orso prepares for a final bow. [NYT]
– A long chat with Gordon Ramsay. [Telegraph]
– Not kosher: Ilan Hall's bacon-wrapped matzoh balls. [Jewish Journal]
– 7-Eleven gets ready to roll out its own wine. [MSNBC]
– Why Guinness can taste different in Ireland (and elsewhere). [Accidental Hedonist]
– Will laser etchings replace fruit and vegetable stickers? [Gizmodo]
– Portion sizes, then and now. [DivineCaroline]
– How exactly does Jell-O work? [BG]
– Meat, the fabric. [EMD]
– Cookie monster cupcakes love cookies. [Leila Cohan]

Primal Napa

BuzzEditor — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 16:18:00 GMT

Animal roast at last year's Primal event

Photo: courtesy of Primal Napa

Are butchers the new celebs? Find out yourself on November 7 when meat mavens Chris Cosentino (Incanto, Boccalone), Staffan Terje (Perbacco), Taylor Boetticher (Fatted Calf), Scott Boggs (Hudson Ranch), Ryan Farr (4505 Meats), Tia Harrison and Melanie Eismann (Avedano’s), and Jesse Schwartzburg (Star Meats) sharpen their blades and prepare a wine-paired barbecue of heritage meats over hardwood fire at Chase Cellar’s Hayne Vineyard in Napa. Before that, the Primal Napa chefs will take to the stage for a series on how to cook with different types of wood, as well as not-for-the-squeamish demos on breaking down a whole pig, cow, goat and lamb. Those who splurge for VIP tickets will be rewarded with wood-fired oysters, Benton’s bacon and grilled artisan cheeses, plus reserve wines and cocktails by Alembic’s Daniel Hyatt (2–7 PM; general admission $65; VIP $100; held outdoors, rain or shine, at 2252 Sulphur Springs, St. Helena; to buy tickets, call 404-849-3569 or visit www.artofthebutcher.com).

Nick's New Nibbles

BuzzEditor — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:18:00 GMT

Nick's Cove

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Every Thursday and Friday night at the bar, Pat Kuleto's Californian Nick's Cove is running a special three-course "Local’s Combo" for $15, available at the bar only. What are the three courses? We're glad you asked. The menu consists of three barbecued oysters, the house-ground burger with hand-cut French fries and a draft beer. Yep, you read that right: they’re counting a pint as the third course. For those craving a little more to eat, the restaurant has also introduced Maine Lobster Sliders (two for $12), available at the bar and in the dining room (415-723-1071).

Dining News Elsewhere: An Illy Invasion, Iron Chef in the White House

BuzzEditor — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 12:11:00 GMT

– Illy is making inroads into U.S. coffee shops. [WSJ]
– Gordon Ramsay is planning to bring the popular MasterChef to the U.S. [THR]
– Sam Kass: assistant White House chef, policy wonk. [NYT]

– Related: Iron Chef America heads to the White House. [NYT]
– After 17 years, Jean-Georges is shutting down Vong. Though maybe not for long? [Eater]
– Learning to compost in Chicago's public schools. [Chicago Tribune]
– More on the affect of calorie counts on menus. [NYT]
– The Kogi Truck folks in LA have their own custom car now. [Mouthing Off]
– Kids menus should grow up. [BG]
– What does your beer choice say about you? [AdAge]
– Yellow Tail isn't the only Aussie wine, y'know. [WSJ]
– One 225,000-ton ship, more than 24 dining options. [EMD]
– Grant Achatz stands sternly in front of an airplane. [GS:C]
– Is it a steak house or a gay bar? [SteakHouseorGayBar]

Celeb Chefs Cover the Market

BuzzEditor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:32:00 GMT

Jardinière

Though fine dining may have cooled off a little as a result of the past year’s economic turmoil, celeb chefs remain as popular as ever. Fortunately, many of them have opened more casual concepts, allowing diners with tighter budgets to get a taste of their culinary vision. But how do these budget-minded sibs stack up against their high-end counterparts? Read up, and then add your own votes and opinions.

Traci Des Jardins

One of the top toques in town, Traci Des Jardins is comfortable cooking both high-end Cal-French and wallet-friendly Mexican.

Jardinière

300 Grove St.
(Franklin St.)
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-861-5555; reserve online

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
26	26	25	$74

“The best thing to happen to Tristan und Isolde in many years” sing “cultured” customers who “float across the street post-opera or -symphony” to this Civic Center “celebration” place where Pat Kuleto’s “glitzy” “supper-club” decor sets the stage for Traci Des Jardins’ “exquisite” “artistry” with sustainable Cal-French cuisine, matched by “sublime” wines and “stellar” service; the “bar menu is perfect” for a “quick” nibble “without reservations”, but many prefer to “stay for hours and savor an entire experience” as “rich as the price tag.”

Key to Zagat Ratings

Mijita

1 Ferry Bldg.
(Market St.)
San Francisco, CA 94111
415-399-0814;

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
20	12	13	$17

Mjita

Traci Des Jardins (Jardinière) “nails the perfect taco” and other “terrific Mexican basics” made from “local, sustainable ingredients” at her “upscale” taqueria in the Ferry Building, where the “amazing” comida is “worth waiting in line for (even cutting a few tourists)”; “it’s impossible to get a seat on weekend” market days, but since there’s “no atmosphere” inside anyway, amigos advise taking it “outside to soak in the sunshine and views of the Bay.”

Charles Phan

After dazzling with his high-end Vietnamese at The Slanted Door, Charles Phan foresaw the current street-food trend way back in 2004 when he launched his first Out the Door location.

The Slanted Door

1 Ferry Bldg.
(Market St.)
San Francisco, CA 94111
415-861-8032; reserve online

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
26	22	21	$49

Charles Phan’s “justly famous” Ferry Plaza “juggernaut” “dazzles” with “remarkable”, “high-end” Vietnamese (“the shaking beef still shakes me to the core”) and “off-the-main-path” wines served in a “minimalist” “glassed-in” waterfront setting with “gorgeous” views; since it’s a “tough reservation”, customers “congratulate themselves for even getting a seat” in the “roaring” room, tended by a “ruthlessly efficient and competent” staff.

Key to Zagat Ratings

Out the Door

Multiple locations

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
22	14	16	$23

For “the best of Slanted Door without the crowds, wait or attitude”, the “lunch and shopping” set is glad to “take a table now and skip the pretty views” at these “Phan-tastic” “second label” venues that “elevate humble” Vietnamese street food; while they’re “cheaper” than the “mothership”, some find them “expensive” for the “fast-food” setting.

Key to Zagat Ratings

Alice Waters

Chez Panisse's Alice Waters has always made the argument that eating sustainably doesn't necessarily mean breaking the bank, a point she proves at her affordable breakfast and lunch spot Café Fanny.

Chez Panisse

1517 Shattuck Ave.
(bet. Cedar & Vine Sts.)
Berkeley, CA 94709
510-548-5525; reserve online

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
28	23	27	$85

“Still ‘keeping it fresh’ after lo these many years”, “Alice and her crew” continue to “enchant” “foodies” who “come to worship” at her Berkeley “altar”, where the “ultimate” Cal-Med prix fixe dinners are prepared with “unadorned” ingredients “right off the boat and garden”; “not everyone loves the Craftsman decor” or “being locked into the menu of the day”, but most are “thrilled” to “walk through the kitchen” “where it all started” – “a philosophy and a movement, and it tastes so damn good” too; P.S. “reserve ahead.”

Key to Zagat Ratings

Café Fanny

1603 San Pablo Ave.
(Cedar St.)
Berkeley, CA 94702
510-524-5447

Food	Decor	Service	Cost
23	12	15	$18

“Gourmet ghetto heaven on a budget” awaits at Alice Waters’ “tiny”, “so Berkeley” French stand-up bar (with some “parking-lot” tables), serving “Chez Panisse–style” breakfasts and lunches, replete with “cloudlike” eggs, “dreamy, creamy lattes” and “granola taken to another level”; expect to “pay through the nose” for the pleasure and to “wait” awhile (the “pretentious” staff “adds a new dimension to ‘Slow Food’”), but fans agree “this little nothing place is something.”

Key to Zagat Ratings

On the Costanera

BuzzEditor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:36:00 GMT

La Costanera

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific, La Costanera, a contemporary Peruvian nuevocomer from chef-restaurateur Carlos Altamirano (who also owns SF’s Piqueo’s and Mochica), brings punchy pisco cocktails and over a dozen types of ceviche, tiraditos and crudos to the coastside berg of Montara Beach near Half Moon Bay; the three-story, 10,000-sq.-ft. former Chart House space boasts a soaring glass ceiling plus tall windows to maximize surf- and seal-watching.

8150 Cabrillo Hwy., Montara Beach; 650-728-1600

See more new restaurants around the Bay Area

La Costanera

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Coming Soon: Cantinetta Piero, Encuentro

BuzzEditor — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 15:53:00 GMT

Cantinetta Piero, the flagship Tuscan restaurant in the soon-to-open Hotel Luca in Downtown Yountville, is set to debut at the end of November. Meant to conjure up the convivial attitude and open-air lifestyle of Tuscany, the space includes design elements such as vaulted brick ceilings with massive beams, a dedicated pizza bar, an open kitchen with a wood-burning oven and salumi-curing room, and 20-ft.-tall glass walls that open onto an outdoor dining area filled with olive trees. Chris Vacca (formerly of Cantinetta Luca and the Patina Group) will oversee the seasonally driven menu, and longtime Napa veteran Michael Galyen (formerly of Bistro Don Giovanni) will run the front of the house (6774 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-8080).

A little closer to home is Encuentro Cafe and Wine Bar, a tiny vegetarian enoteca set to open in Oakland's up-and-coming Jack London Square area during the first half of November. Eric Tucker, the chef behind San Francisco’s Millennium, is pairing up with New Jersey restaurant veteran Lacey Sher (formerly of the vegan Down to Earth restaurant) and partner Linda Baz for the project, which will be fashioned from reclaimed materials on the ground floor of a new "green" condo building. The space lacks a full kitchen, however, so expect a limited menu of Mediterranean-style sandwiches, soups and small plates (such as a local, organic vegetable–rennet-based cheese plate) and a selection of biodynamic, mostly New World wines (200 Second St., Oakland; 510-832-9643).

Speaking of Jack London, Blue Bottle opened its second cafe and roastery outpost at 300 Webster Street. Opening hours are Monday–Friday, 8 AM–2 PM (510-653-3394).

Dining News Elsewhere: PBR For Sale, Wading Into the Tip Pool

BuzzEditor — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:43:00 GMT

– Talking with the troubled Ciprianis. [Vanity Fair]
– The brewery behind PBR and Schlitz is for sale. [NYP]
– Restaurants seek to better manage tip pools. [NRN]

– Western foods are gaining in China. [ABC]
– Where have all the Angostura bitters gone? [Bostonist]
– Who gets all of those 7 PM reservations, anyway? [Between Meals]
– The last days of Gourmet. [Last Days of Gourmet]
– Nation's Restaurant News to go biweekly. [Food Writer's Diary]
– Who needs to tip when you can buy the chef a beer? [GS:C]
– 222.5 pounds? Now that's a big meatball. [MSNBC]
– Could you eat 78 pieces of cutlery? Would you? [Daily Mail, via EMD]
– The manually operated hamburger vending machine. [JapanProbe]

Cooking With Coco

BuzzEditor — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:15:00 GMT

David Chang's pork neck with succotash

Photo and recipe: courtesy of Phaidon Press

For its latest cookbook, Coco, Phaidon Press turned to 10 world-leading chefs – Ferran Adrià, Mario Batali, Shannon Bennett, Alain Ducasse, Fergus Henderson, Yoshihiro Murata, Gordon Ramsay, René Redzepi, Alice Waters and Jacky Yu – to each pick 10 contemporary chefs from around the world. In turn, each of those chefs then wrote a menu and recipes for the book. The final product is more than 400 pages of gorgeous photographs, mouthwatering recipes and interesting tidbits from kitchens around the world. Want a taste? After the jump, get the recipe for pork neck with succotash from New York chef David Chang (of the Momofuku empire).

Pork Neck with Succotash
Serves 4
Recipe by David Chang

For the pork neck
300 g kosher salt
270 g sugar
6 liters hot water
2 bay leaves
25 g black peppercorns
6 liters cold water
10 g pink salt
1 pork neck

Mix the salt, sugar, hot water, bay leaves, and black peppercorns.
Mix the cold water with the pink salt.
Add the pork neck and confit 5 hours at 300°F (150°C) covered.
When tender, press between 2 sheet trays. Portion into serving size pieces.
Crisp on a griddle or pan to heat through.

For the succotash
100 g ground (minced) smoked, think-cut pork belly
12 g chanterelle mushrooms
250 g lima (butter) beans
175 g corn (sweetcorn) kernels
Butter for sautéing
1 tbsp tarragon, chopped
4 ml buttermilk
120 g butter
130 g arugula (rocket)

Sauté the pork belly, chanterelles, lima beans, and corn in a pan.
Finish with a pinch of salt and pepper, chopped tarragon, buttermilk, butter, and arugula.

Outtake of the Week

BuzzEditor — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 18:03:00 GMT

A bit out of the way and not worth finding.