Fairsted Kitchen Opens in Brookline TodayBy Scott Kearnan
October 29, 2013
The kitchen is open. Fairsted Kitchen, that is, which today starts serving contemporary American with Middle Eastern and European touches. The Brookline restaurant, co-owned by young industry vet Andrew Foster and sommelier Steve Bowman (pictured), is named for the nearby former estate of legendary landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, whose work on ambitious parks projects like Boston's Emerald Necklace left his mark across the country. Its decor certainly hews to the mid-19th century: expect antique chandeliers and silverware culled from markets, repurposed doors from an old Boston rowhouse, and even Victorian-era wallpaper and furnishings inspired by the interior of Olmsted's actual home. The main attraction, though, is the menu from chef Scott Osif (ex Nantucket’s Galley Beach), which includes a pig head lettuce wrap, communal-sized braised oxtail, and chicken and sturgeon dishes spruced up with accents like za'atar, harissa and tahini. The largely shareable plates go down easy with a drink list that includes one rotating craft cocktail and an aperitif on draft, plus a selection of canned and bottled brews and "terroir-driven" wines (617-396-8752).