Chef's Choice: To the Wind Bistro's Pork Tenderloin and Belly with Apple CrispBy Ruth Tobias
April 24, 2014
A couple of weeks ago, we stopped into this little bistro in the shadow of the Bluebird on East Colfax on a whim and promptly became infatuated - not only with the super-smart, hearty yet refined bistro fare (see our slideshow here), but also with the relaxed approach chef-owners Royce Oliveira and Leanne Adamson take to hospitality. Sitting at the snug bar along the open kitchen as they cook and chat, you feel as though they're throwing an impromptu dinner party in your honor. The swiftness with which To the Wind's menu changes only adds to that impression. Since there's not much time to fall in love with any given dish before it's gone, we cut to the chase and asked the couple to single out their own current favorites. The following will be around for another couple of weeks; we can't make any promises after that, so hurry in.
Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Belly and Apple Crisp. Take advantage of any last little nip in the evening air to dig into this one. Touched with a Prost Dunkel gastrique, pickled mustard seeds and a sprinkling of currant granola, the generous pork duo (check out that layer-cake-like square of belly meat) comes with a slab of apple crisp made from Adamson's mother's recipe: "All we do is add oregano to it," Adamson laughs. ($18)
Strawberry-Rhubarb Tart. Likewise, the flavor of pure fruit dominates this dessert, from the filling to the garnish of orange segments and candied ginger. Even the the almond-zested lattice cookie is only lightly sweet, to make for a refreshing finish. Oliveira recommends pairing it with Black Shirt's Red Saison for its subtly spicy notes.
3333 E. Colfax Ave.; 303-316-3333