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What to Expect at Stoic & Genuine, Open Now in Union Station

By Ruth Tobias
July 9, 2014
Photo by: Bryan Grant

First they conquered French and Mediterranean cuisine with Bistro Vendôme and Rioja, respectively. Then they jumped into the gastropub genre with Euclid Hall Bar + Kitchen. And now, the inimitable team of James Beard Award-winning chef Jennifer Jasinski, Beard Rising Star nominee Jorel Pierce and managing partner Beth Gruitch are set to make a major splash with Stoic & Genuine, the Union Station seafooder just a few blocks from their Larimer Square trifecta.

By now, you’ve probably heard about the granita bar, which showcases shaved ices for use in both cocktails and desserts as well as raw-bar toppings, with flavors ranging from litchi-sake and chile-citrus to ginger-kaffir lime. You may already know about the namesake oysters being harvested exclusively for S&G by oystermen in Long Island Sound and Chesapeake Bay, or about Gruitch’s passion for grower champagnes, which enjoy pride of place on her wine list alongside classic shellfish pairings like Loire Valley Muscadet and Soave from the Veneto. And we’ve already told you about the brilliant mussel soup called billi bi. That just leaves one thing: soaking up the vibe while trying the food for yourself.

Union Station, 1701 Wynkoop St.; 303-640-3474. Open for lunch and dinner daily. 

  • Photo by: Bryan Grant

    Dominating one wall all the way up to the soaring ceiling, local artist Lui Ferreyra's sinuous octopus mural is countered by the straight lines of mounted sand fencing and the historic rail depot's original, totem-polelike columns. Portholes, distressed mirrors and reclaimed glass fishing floats complete the boat-cabin motif, enhanced by the long, narrow dimensions of the space. 

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    Before we continue, here's the Maine-style cold lobster roll. We know you were waiting for it. 

  • Photo by: Ruth Tobias

    The granita display sits opposite the bar at one end of the dining room, while the open kitchen and raw bar (pictured top) run its length on the other side. 

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    Of course you've got to start with oysters, be they Wellfleets or Washingtonians — the selection changes daily. 

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    And the cast-iron skillet cornbread is also a must — though the toasty-soft Parker House rolls come a close second.

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    Or you could go for the sturgeon roe atop luscious vichyssoise cubes with rye crackers. S&G sells its caviar in 10-gram rather than one-oz. increments, making the luxury a smidge more affordable.   

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    At a preview last month, we were duly impressed by the care Jasinski and Pierce take with salads, from the house mix of butter lettuce and dried wakame in walnut-orange vinaigrette to this vibrant mix of broccoli, avocado and apple with sunflower seeds in yuzu-sesame dressing. 

  • But we also loved the classic crab Louie, green goddess dressing and all. 

  • Photo by: Mark Piscotty

    Of the crudos we tried, our favorite was the sea bass with deconstructed tartar sauce — aïoli, housemade pickles and dill-tinged onion rings. On any given day, however, there will be a number on offer, from sea urchin with grapes, strawberries and shiso to scallops in avocado oil with kimchi. 

  • Photo by: Bryan Grant

    Jasinski, pictured left with Gruitch, also turns out textbook fried clams, steamed crab legs and more with your choice of dips — think anchoïade, smoked-oyster tartar sauce and champagne mignonette as well as drawn butter, horseradish and cocktail sauce. And you can count on her ever-trusty pastry chef Eric Dale when it comes to pies and cakes in a jar. 

  • Photo by: Ruth Tobias

    Meanwhile, leave it to Pierce to lead the line with his usual gusto. 

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Places Mentioned

Bistro Vendôme

French • Central Business District

Food26 Decor25 Service24 Cost$47
 
 
 
Rioja

Mediterranean • Central Business District

Food28 Decor24 Service26 Cost$49
 
 
 
Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen

Eclectic • Central Business District

Food24 Decor24 Service23 Cost$29
 
 
 
 
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