Cheat Sheet: The New PolpettoBy Malika Dalamal
February 17, 2014
The Gist: Russell Norman and Richard Beatty (Polpo, Mishkin's, Spuntino, The Ape & Bird) have reopened Polpetto on Berwick Street almost two years after ending its previous tenancy above The French House on Dean House. Chef Florence Knight is back in the kitchen cooking up a similar mix of Venetian-style small plates.
The Vibe: The new Polpetto sits amongst the chaos of Berwick Street fruit market in a space that is double the size of the original (70 covers). Set over two floors with an open kitchen downstairs and an Aperitivo bar on the ground floor, version 2.0 feels slightly less industrial and more rustic with pale blue peeled walls, tiles and red-leather booths.
Drink This: A rhubarb Bellini and other Italian cocktails made with seasonal ingredients.
Eat This: Hare pappardelle - a practically perfect gamey bowl of pasta that you won't want to share; scallops served on puréed and roasted cauliflower with wafer-thin layers of lardo; divine maple tart to finish.
Say Goodbye to: Long lines. Previously famous for their no-reservation policy and queues, the new Polpetto takes bookings at lunchtime and in the evenings for groups of 6 or more.
The Damage: Small sharing plates range from £6 to £12, sides are around £4, and there is a choice of desserts for £3.50 to £7. Average price per person is roughly £35 depending on what you drink.
The Verdict: A welcome return.
11 Berwick St., W1F 0PL; 020 7439 8627