Cheat Sheet: Glazed Donut BistroBy Lesley Balla
February 19, 2014
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The Gist: Charming little cafe in the heart of Boystown featuring really fresh sweet and savory donuts. There’s Stumptown coffee and Dr. Bob’s Ice Cream, but also a small selection of beer and wine. In theory, you could have a chocolate donut and Guiness should you choose. The tagline is “donuts for grownups,” which translates to more decadent sauces, unique flavors and words like “small batch” and “artisanal” thrown about.
The Vibe: It’s a friendly joint with two big counters and an open kitchen where cooks are making, frosting and sprinkling donuts throughout the day. There are a few tables inside and a few out on the sidewalk. If the locals aren’t heading into Yogurt Stop next door for “Shake Your Salted Caramel Booty" frozen yogurt, they’re here getting naughty with blueberry cheesecake or cereal-topped sugar bombs.
Eat This: There are more than a dozen cake and raised donuts, all topped or stuffed with a lot of a lot. No one’s shy with the sugar. The donuts themselves are quite perfect: fresh, fluffy and delicious. The chocolate cake donut with chocolate ganache is, as expected, very chocolatey. We love the hit of cardamom in one cake donut, a pretty good complement to the sweet-tart lemon-blueberry icing. The maple bar with a line of bacon chunks was the most balanced of the sweet offerings. But the savory donuts are where it's at, like the fried chicken beignet (pictured). Made to order, strips of fried chicken are wrapped in a beignet batter and fried - two great things in one bite. They come to the table hot with a maple gastrique sauce and choice of salad or fries. After all of that, the salad seems most appropriate but then again, why stop now?
Drink This: Stumptown coffee for the win, hot and cold-brewed. Unlike most donut shops we know, this one serves wine and beer too. There's nothing earth-shattering on the list but should you choose to celebrate, go for the Dom Perignon.
Skip This: We see the appeal, but the peanut butter and jelly donut - a raised donut overstuffed with jelly and topped with a thick peanut butter icing and a sprinkle of peanuts - is just too much.
For Fans Of: Crumbs Bake Shop, sugar
The Damage: The donuts aren’t cheap. We dropped almost $40 on six donuts (five sweet, one savory) and a cold brew coffee.
The Verdict: Serious sweet tooths will love this place. But the savory offerings are fun twists on comfort food staples and would make a fine lunch or dinner. Chef Gena Lora is extremely creative. The ingredients are top-quality and the flavors will change often. We see this as a caloric splurge when the craving strikes and a drive to Donut Man is out of the question.
Glazed Donut Bistro, 8807 Santa Monica Blvd.; 310-360-0222