Taste Test: Ricky's Fish Taco Truck
By Lesley Balla
January 6, 2014
There is a reason we and many others can't stop talking about Ricky's Fish Tacos. Ricky Pina's specialty is hands-down one of the best in town, if not the best: fresh fish and shrimp dipped in a great secret-ingredient batter, then fried until perfectly golden brown outside and molten inside. Both are served on good tortillas that don't shred, with a heap of cabbage and pico de gallo on top. You add the crema and salsa; we prefer the verde, which has just enough heat.
Pina served the tacos for a few years in a parking lot across from the Vons on the Los Feliz and Silver Lake border, and before that in parking lot in Sunset Junction, until he got kicked out and had to move to Chinatown last year. But Pina finally got a shiny new truck, one with enough fryers for the fish taco demand, which he's now parking at his old digs on Virgil Avenue. He's happy, we're happy, the fans that have followed him since 2009 are totally happy.
What's different now is primarily the set up. You order at the truck, which is big and silver, so you can't miss it. There are more tables than ever, all under a bright yellow-and-white striped tent. There's now a palm tree fence lining the black gate, which gives it a decidedly Baja feel. Between that, the tacos and the aguas frescas, you may feel like you're at the beach below the border, even if it's for those few minutes it takes to devour your food. Halfway through the last taco, you're already considering a third or fourth (no one orders just one). Another sip of horchata, another taco, and your day is set.
Pina says he'll park there Wednesday through Sunday for lunch hours - 11:30 AM-4 PM - and when he adds dinner, which will be soon, it will be either there or close by. He also plans on taking that show on the road, so for those of you not willing to trek east, keep your eyes peeled on the Twitter feed for his roving whereabouts.