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Best Thing We Ate

Best Thing We Ate: Meatloaf at The Marshal

By James Mulcahy
November 7, 2013

Despite its culinary moniker, Hell's Kitchen has a decided lack of good restaurants. One tiny new eatery that quietly opened a few weeks ago is trying to change that. The Marshal's shtick is "American brick oven cuisine," and while that might sound like some farm-to-table-era tomfoolery, the rustic plates coming out of of the kitchen are no joke. The produce-heavy menu focuses on ingredients from New York State, listing the provenance of ingredients like butternut and acorn squash alongside menu descriptions.

Though you could make up an entire meal just with the veggies, we opted for a meatloaf special on our visit (with Parmesan-dusted fries on the side, please). The loaf was a blend of brisket, chuck and sirloin stuffed with roasted peppers and mozzarella. Beautifully browned, with a sheen of beef broth to sop up on the plate, it provided plenty of comfort on a cool fall night - both to diners who were hoping to escape the chill, and to neighborhood residents who were heartened to discover a solid new option on 10th Avenue.  

628 10th Ave.; 212-582-6300

 
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