Seattle's Best Teriyaki, According to ChefsBy Leslie Kelly
July 25, 2014
Although teriyaki might be considered Seattle's signature dish, ordering it in a Japanese restaurant is the equivalent of getting chicken fingers at a nice American restaurant. But while many foodists snub the combination of sweet, salty and saucy grilled meat as unsophisticated or boring, there are some stellar renditions around town. We asked some of Seattle's best chefs which versions of teriyaki they can get behind and came up with a list of plates that are worth seeking out.
For starters, there are nuanced takes at upscale venues, like Canlis and Daniel's Broiler's tenderloin, pictured at top, which made our list of 30 Dishes & Drinks That Define Summer in Seattle.
Thierry Rautureau occasionally treats his kitchen crew — including Loulay's chef de cuisine, Rob Sevick, pictured below — to a sticky sweet pile of pork teriyaki. "I've been going to Osaka Grill Teriyaki & Deli near Pike Place Market for years. It's definitely a guilty pleasure," he said.
3) Sunny Teriyaki
Stacy Fortner, the pastry chef for Tom Douglas restaurants, said her top choice is influenced by convenience: "I go to Sunny Teriyaki because it's close to my house." LIke Rautureau, she goes for the pork teriyaki. "Who doesn't love to stop and get a dry, yet flavorful piece of grilled meat with rice and salad after a long day of work for less than $10 and that's ready in less than 10 minutes?"
4) Happy Teriyaki
The chef team behind wildly inventive Spur, Tavern Law and Old Sage don't feel a bit guilty admitting they're hooked on Happy Teriyaki: "Brian (McCracken) and I do lunch meetings there sometimes," said Dana Tough. "We like the bento combo."