By Troy Segal, ZAGAT.com staff editor
You don't have to speak Japanese to know what kind of sake you're getting; learning a few important terms goes a long way.
Exploring the sake solar system can seem daunting – and not just because the labels are in Japanese. Unlike wine and its relation to grapes, sake isn’t categorized by its primary ingredient, rice (though different strains of rice are used), but by the degree to which the rice grains have been ground down, or "polished," to their inner starchy layer. It’s also classified by the presence, and amount, of distilled alcohol that’s been added during brewing (sakes usually have an alcohol content of 14–16%, compared to wine’s 12%). Adding to the confusion, these categories can overlap. Like single-malt scotches’, sake styles also reflect their region of origin – for example, the brands of the Niigata prefecture are prized for their crisp, dry, pristine profile – and even their individual breweries. “My advice is to think of the different categories as styles rather than as quality levels,” says Spence Porter, a New York City wine consultant. “Great sakes are to be found in all of them.”
Daiginjo: Sake whose rice has been milled (or “polished”), so that only 50% of the original grain remains. An excellent apéritif, or to accompany lighter foods.
Genshu: Undiluted sake, whose alcohol content can be as high as 20%, vs. the usual 14–16%. When you need that extra kick.
Ginjo: Sake whose rice has been milled down to 60% of its original size. For many, the starting point of premium sake – refined yet flavorful and fruity; often works with sashimi and sushi.
Honjozo: Sake made up of water, rice and mold, with a bit of distilled alcohol (no more than 25% of the overall alcoholic content) added to enhance flavor and aroma. Like Junmai, the rice has been “polished” down to 70%. A good accompaniment to boiled dishes and stews.
Junmai: Sake consisting purely of water, rice and mold, with no distilled alcohol added. Though no longer required to by law, most Junmai makers mill the rice down to 70% of its original size; tokubetsu Junmai has been “polished” a bit more – to about 65%. Full-bodied, many work well with grilled meats and oily or creamy dishes.
Junmai Daiginjo: The crème de la crème of the beverage – sake that is pure water, mold and rice, with the latter milled down to 50%. Especially delicate and flowery, it’s well-suited to fresh seafood and poached dishes.
Junmai Ginjo: Sake consisting purely of water, mold and rice that’s been milled down to 60% of the original grain. Lighter than Junmai, it’s still earthy; good with fried foods and pastas.
Koshu: Aged sake. A relatively recent phenom in the industry, this brew is laid down for several years before bottling (most sake ages only six months). Richer and heavier-tasting, often compared to sherry or port, it’s a good digestif or dessert wine.
Namazake: Unpasteurized sake. Prized for its fresh, lively taste, this is definitely one to keep cold – and to drink soon. Works as an apéritif, and with cheese.
Nigori: Sweetish sake that’s unfiltered or roughly filtered, leaving a residue of rice polishings at the bottom. Shake before you sip – it looks like you’re drinking milk.