Del Posto's elaborate Vintage Dinner setup
Photo: Rebecca Klasfeld
On February 11, a few dozen diners gathered at NYC's Del Posto to enjoy a 19th century–inspired Vintage Dinner prepared by executive chef Mark Ladner, who was recently announced as a semifinalist for the James Beard Awards' Best Chef category. For his nine-course menu, Ladner drew inspiration from Pellegrino Artusi, an Italian silk merchant who in 1891 self-published Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, only to have it go on to sell hundreds of thousand of copies and become a staple of Italian kitchens. Ladner spoke with the Buzz about Artusi and some of the challenges he faced in preparing the extravagant feast.
Zagat Buzz: Your dinner was inspired by Pellegrino Artusi and specifically his book Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well. What drew you to him as an inspiration?
Mark Ladner: I had already had an interest in the writings of Pellegrino Artusi and the time period fit the request of the event. I’ve referred to this book many times and have borrowed recipes from it on several occasions over the years.
ZB: The title of Artusi's book is interesting, especially considering when it was written. Was it tough to find a balance between what was considered healthful then as compared to now?
ML: What most appeals to me is [Artusi’s] interest in wellness and his very straightforward opinions on general health. The refreshing way in which he approaches moderation is very humorous and eloquently stated. I found Artusi’s musing on health and wellness impressively modern and helpful – for the ages!
Mark Ladner
Photo: courtesy of Del Posto
ZB: Did you update the recipes for this dinner?
ML: We felt the need to only slightly update the very vague recipes…most are left open to interpretation. The only significant things we omitted were the roux-based sauces.
ZB: Were there any ingredients that were hard to procure?
ML: Yes, wild hare [used in the Pane de Lepre sandwich]. But it ended up being the most talked-about course of the night, and thus well worth the difficulties. We’re considering serving it on the regular menu.
ZB: Did you make any changes to your regular service or presentation style?
ML: Fortunately at Del Posto, we have access to a very large supply of different serving plates, silverware, vessels and staff. We did our best to create a sense of a lavish, perhaps even royal banquet room with silver candelabras enabling us to eat almost entirely by candlelight, setting the table with all nine courses of silverware, and serving and clearing the table (that was set for 30 guests) at once.
ZB: What was your approach for the beer and wine pairings?
ML: We were trying to establish a feeling of the past, using wines, beers, and spirits of the time. Champagne, Madeira, sherry were all very important at the time. And although Chianti and Barolo were available in Italy, their importance in the Italian wine world hadn’t yet reached the levels of importance they have today.