Rao's Las Vegas
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant
For those of us who grew up in New York, Rao’s was the Holy Grail of Italian cuisine. Unlike the Holy Grail, we knew where to find it – at the corner of 114th and Pleasant Avenue in East Harlem. But like the Cup of Christ, we could never actually grasp it. It didn't matter who you were – you couldn't get in. To this day, its 10 tables are booked every night by regulars, who get the table for the evening. You can call, you can beg, you can plead. But you can't get in.
For more than a century, the descendants of founder Charles Rao have resisted the urge to replicate. Then, in 2006, they announced they were opening an outpost in Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, a move that sent shock waves throughout the restaurant industry. And the Rao's buzz shows no signs of cooling: recently it was announced that its signature wines would be sold at select Whole Foods. So why did Rao's open a branch after more than 100 years of solitude? And are there any other plans to expand the brand? Sitting at a table on the front patio of the Vegas branch, co-owner Frank Pellegrino Jr. explained:
Merrill Shindler: So... why expand? And why here?
Frank Pellegrino Jr.: It was never a priority to open another branch. But Caesars impressed us with their foresight, their understanding and their level of communication. It was a perfect fit. There isn't another hotel in Las Vegas where we would have done this. This is the only place.
MS: What were the non-negotiables?
FP: If it wasn't Rao's, the real Rao's, it wasn't going to happen. It had to be every bit of Rao's. There was never any doubt that we wanted to re-create the restaurant, booth by booth, picture by picture, dish by dish. When we agreed on that, we felt ready to move forward.
MS: Is it true you hired Engstrom Design to actually survey the original restaurant?
FP: They measured every inch of Rao's in East Harlem. They got to understand the nuances of the restaurant. Every detail was paid attention to, nothing was left out. When I look at the photos people have taken in Rao's Las Vegas, I would swear they were taken in New York. It's not as if we were trying to build the Sistine Chapel. But there are complexities that most people wouldn't notice. We would – we did this for ourselves. You can't just build it. Everyone involved with this project is in love with Rao's, the passion, the heart, the soul. It's not about money. It's about what Rao's means to the people who go to Rao's. This is a restaurant like none other. We don't want people to just leave full. We want people to leave fulfilled.
MS: There must be some differences. I mean, the Las Vegas Rao's is inside a casino. And where New York seats 40 people, Las Vegas seats 200 – with a bar where you can eat as well.
FP: Because of Clark County codes, the rooms are a little bit wider. [The original] Rao's is 113 years old, so it doesn’t meet a lot of today's regulations. But the variance is small. Most people wouldn't notice. It’s the same exact ceiling we have at Rao's. Even the paint is the same, the same textures and color scheme as in New York. The colors are old colors. We wanted the place to feel as if it had been here – maybe not 113 years, maybe 100 years.
MS: That is so not Las Vegas. I mean, this is the very epicenter of the Shock of the New.
FP: Everybody took their cues from 114th and Pleasant. There was nothing that couldn't be replicated. The people at Thor Construction, who do the building for Caesars, really understood. The folks who did the mill work, they relished this project. It's a throwback to the old days, not what people do anymore. They'd tell us that this was how their fathers and grandfathers did it. There was a pride in what they did that was beautiful. Craftsmen never have a chance to do work like this anymore.
MS: Replicating the room is one thing. But what about the food? I mean, you're a continent away from your suppliers.
FP: Usually when you do things in mass, the quality changes. Chef Carla keeps the integrity, so everything tastes as if it were made in a small kitchen by someone's grandmother. And it should – we're using all the original recipes. This is the same menu, there's nothing that didn't travel. We overnight whatever we need. If there are any tomatoes left in the San Marzano region, we get them.
MS: You've now been in Las Vegas for two and a half years. Anything you want to change?
FP: After two and a half years, it feels like home. Honestly, we wouldn't want to change a thing. We have everything we want, everything in the kitchen, everything that reflects Rao's in New York.
MS: Do people's appetites differ between East and West?
FP: It's remarkable, but people in New York and Las Vegas order the same food. The same meatballs, penne alla vodka, veal chops with hot and sweet cherry peppers, steak pizzaiola, veal parmesan. Really, the restaurants mirror one another.
MS: And how's the outdoor bocce court doing?
FP: We all play bocce here. We just opened a Bocce Bar next to the bocce court. And we've hired Bocce Bellas who come out in bikinis and teach people how to play bocce.
MS: Bikinis? You don't do that on 114th Street.
FP: It's Las Vegas, so the teachers are in bikinis. You can have a cocktail at the bocce court, and the Bocce Bellas referee the games. So, yes, that's different.
MS: How has the recession affected you?
FP: We've built solid relationships with a lot of people, a lot of regular customers. The recession has touched us, but only slightly. We're going very strong. We've streamlined things, so we're doing very well. It hasn't impacted us that much. At least, not yet. If it ever will.
MS: For those who can't get to Rao's, you also have a line of products. Any plans for Rao's Frozen Italian Dinners?
FP: We have pasta sauces, pasta, olive oil, vinegar, peppers. We just introduced three domestic wines. Frozen – you never know, we've looked into it.
MS: And is this the beginning of a chain? Maybe another branch in a century or so?
FP: We're very comfortable with where we are right now. We want to enjoy this experience. We don't rush anything. It's been 113 years, we're in no hurry. We've dreamed of a pizzeria – who hasn't. We served pizza when we did lunch the first year we opened. But right now we have to deal with a new generation of Rao's regulars. We've had a lot of people who haven't been able to get in. But it's easier. Here, you have to wait a few weeks; back East, you have to wait a lifetime.
– Merrill Shindler