Dr. Hogly Wogly's Three Way
Photo: Claire Thomas
You'll find the city of Tyler at the east end of Texas, north of Galveston and Beaumont. This is prime barbecue country, gathering its influences from both the South and the West, from the beef eaters of Texas and the pepper aficionados of Louisiana. For a taste of Tyler in LA, you need look no further than Sepulveda Boulevard. Dr. Hogly Wogly's BBQ is basically a shack, albeit a comfortable one – the people who make great 'cue don't put much stock in frills and folderol. Its "Three-Way" lets diners choose a trio of meats from the following: brisket, hot nubbly links, spareribs (the hypertrophic size allows you to sink your choppers into them without hitting bone in the middle of a chew), plus sliced pork or chicken. The accompanying puffy, baked-in-house bread makes a perfect sop for the hot (but not too hot) sauce. Options for sides include baked beans, coleslaw and spud salad, and, for dessert, sweet potato pie, pecan pie and ice cream ($21.95–$24.95, comes with two sides and half a loaf of bread; 818-780-6701).
–Merrill Shindler