There are certain dishes – roasted beet salad, duck confit – that herald the coming of fall. Add to that list risotto and the season has arrived. Sweet corn is the mainstay in the risotto at Union Bar and Grill, which kicks in chiles, chorizo and sage. Franklin Café, known for its late-night noshing, adds shrimp and scallops, asparagus and leeks. And leeks appear again in the farro-based risotto served with Island Creek oysters by Barbara Lynch at No. 9 Park.
– Naomi Kooker