Mary Dumont
Photo: courtesy of Harvest
Harvest's Mary Dumont has spent much of her life in kitchens. The New Hampshire native grew up in her family's restaurant and has gone on to receive national acclaim, appearing on such programs as NBC’s The Today Show and the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. The Buzz recently spoke to the chef about her favorite summer ingredients, her inspirations and where she goes for a quick bite on the go.
Eric Grossman: How has Harvard Square's restaurant scene changed over the past couple of years?
Mary Dumont: Harvard Square, and Cambridge in general, have been able to handle the changing economy better than Boston because of the strong local following. People tend to be more loyal to their favorites and stay closer to home. I have seen restaurants take root instead of trying to change with the economy, and that stability is what makes people in Harvard Square more comfortable with spending.
EG: Looking forward to summer? Any ingredients that you're currently excited about working with?
MD: We are currently planting our own garden, and I'm excited about growing our own lemon verbena and heirloom tomatoes. I'm really putting the emphasis on teaching the cooks the whole process from seeding to harvesting our food, so they have a greater understanding and respect for the craft of cooking.
EG: When it's a stunning night and you're dining on Harvest's patio – what menu items do you feel best complement the setting?
MD: I would start off with a glass of rosé, my favorite, and Island Creek oysters. I am making a fantastic housemade tuna bacon with tempura quail eggs, and then I'd suggest the rooibos tea–marinated duck or the seared scallops with summer truffles. If it's a particularly warm night I'd probably get our artisanal cheese plate to linger over a little longer.
EG: Are there any chefs, here in Boston or elsewhere, that you look to for ideas or inspiration?
MD: I probably admire Barbara Lynch (No. 9 Park, Sportello) the most for her business savvy. Her company has become so multifaceted and hasn't lost its touch, which is no small feat. As far as food, I really like what Daniel Humm does at Eleven Madison Park [in NYC]. He has such a delicate and complex palate and his presentation is amazing. I was the sous-chef at Campton Place when he was interviewing for the chef position there. Eating his food that day and just a few months ago in NYC...it is really a pleasure to watch someone grow like he has.
EG: Have you seen a change in how savvy and informed diners are?
MD: I think people are more aware of what they are eating in general. It's interesting for people to have a greater understanding of the dining experience, and it seems to fascinate them a lot. Sometimes I don't tell new people I meet I'm a chef because of getting bombarded with questions...but it eventually comes out, and I enjoy that people are really interested in food.
EG: Finally, where's your go-to spot for a quick, sub-$10 meal?
MD: I'll stop by Sofra on my way to work for their yummy spreads and amazing pita bread, or grab a falafel at any of the amazing Middle Eastern places in Harvard Square. My new favorite is Il Casale in Belmont...they have a selection of $5 small bites that are amazing!
– Eric Grossman