Chris Douglas
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant
One of the South End's oldest establishments, Icarus, closed earlier this year, leaving chef-owner Chris Douglass to focus on his other eateries (Ashmont Grill and Tavolo), both located in his native Dorchester. The restaurateur took a break from handling the sale of Icarus to chat with the Buzz.
Zagat Buzz: At 30-plus years, Icarus had quite the run. Now that it’s over, how do you feel?
Chris Douglass: 32 years in fact, is an extremely long time in restaurant years. When we opened in 1978, the South End was nothing like the South End of today. There were a few pioneer homeowners and businesses, but it was still a very edgy neighborhood. I really loved being there and being part of its truly remarkable transition. Much of Icarus' success came from having a connection to our neighbors. We started out as a simple neighborhood joint with a blackboard menu, and evolved into one of the city's premier fine-dining establishments. We never lost sight, however, of our goal to provide great food and service. I'm proud of Icarus and the talented team there. It was a rewarding experience for us all.
ZB: Any memories or anecdotes from the early days?
CD: In the early days, we had one customer who always requested the window table. It wasn't for the view; it was so he could keep an eye on his Porsche out at the curb. There was no such thing as valet parking, and one was quite likely to get one's car stolen on Tremont Street.
ZB: For those only familiar with Icarus, who have yet to visit Ashmont Grill or Tavolo, how would you describe each?
CD: The thing that will be most familiar to Icarus customers when they come visit us in Dorchester is the warmth and friendliness of our staffs. We take pride in finding great people who love doing their job and love making the guests happy. The other thing they will be happy to note is we have brought two of Icarus' signature dishes to the restaurants. Grilled shrimp with mango and jalapeño sorbet is available at the Grill, and polenta with exotic mushrooms is served at Tavolo. Also, both restaurants have a great bar scene, and the clientele in both restaurants is very diverse – multiracial, straight, gay, hipster, parishioner, well-heeled, bohemian. It’s very cool. Quite a few leading politicians drop by both places as well.
ZB: You have ties to Dorchester, no? How has the area, and its dining scene, changed over the years?
CD: I've lived here for 20-plus years. It is a dynamic, diverse and community-involved area. Dorchester gets a pretty bum rap in the press, although I believe that is improving. I had wanted to open another restaurant for some time. When I would mention this to friends or neighbors, they were very persuasive in convincing me that Dorchester was desperate and ready to support a good restaurant. In many ways, Dorchester reminds me of the South End back when Icarus first opened: tons of community spirit, people making investments in their homes and making a real commitment to making urban living work. Dorchester is fast becoming a dining destination. In addition to Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, there are a number of really good ethnic restaurants – Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican, Caribbean.
ZB: For those unfamiliar with the Dot dining scene, there are some great, affordable options. Do you have any faves?
CD: I love the beef banh mi at Ba Le and the carnitas burrito at Real Taco, the Indian lunch buffet at Shanti and pho at any number of Vietnamese joints on Dorchester Avenue.
ZB: Final question – is there anything you think the city's culinary scene is lacking?
CD: I and others have been working hard to get a permanent public market established in Boston. We have amazing food resources and traditions in Boston and throughout New England, and we need a venue to highlight and support them. Public markets provide an opportunity for local farmers, fishers, cheesemakers, butchers and other food artisans to market directly to their customers. This is critical to keeping Massachusetts (and New England) involved in agriculture. It also provides a better profit margin, and therefore incentive, to food producers. Those of us involved with food in this region know just how good it can be. Having our own public market to showcase that food – like San Francisco's Ferry Terminal Building or Philadelphia's Reading Market – will show the world just how good it is.
– Eric Grossman