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It was good, but not nearly as good as the employees kept telling me.
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Photo: Ion Sokhos
A Thanksgiving dinner where you don't have to clean up afterward is truly something to be thankful about. The following restaurants are offering meals for gobbling on November 26.
1 Seaport Ln.; 617-385-4300
Take your appetite to the Seaport Hotel, where chef Rachel Klein will prepare a three-course prix-fixe lunch menu and dessert buffet, as well as an all-natural, healthy menu for children. Dishes includes baked oysters, organic turkey, grilled pork tenderloin or ribeye and a selection of desserts (one seating at noon; $60 for adults, $22 for children; free for children under 6).
399 Grove St., Newton Lower Falls; 617-454-3399
Newton’s premiere steakhouse in Hotel Indigo will celebrate Thanksgiving by offering an inspired three-course prix fixe including butternut and Japanese winter squash bisque with almond chantilly; New Hampshire turkey two ways (roasted breast and confit thigh) with side dishes; and traditional pumpkin pie (2–8 PM; $45 per person, $65 with wine pairings).
40 Edwin H. Land Blvd., Cambridge; 617-497-4200
Dante de Magistris' Italian inside the Royal Sonesta hotel is going to the birds with a naturally raised, free-range Vermont turkey with stuffing as part of its three-course prix fixe menu. Vegetarian options are also available (1–9 PM; $69 per person; à la carte menu for children under 12).
75 Arlington St.; 617-357-4810
290 Patriot Pl., Foxboro; 508-339-4810
Both locations will be offering a prix fixe, as well as "Tomorrow’s Turkey Sandwich" to go – a version of the day-after treat with turkey, stuffing, cranberry apple chutney and gravy (noon–8 PM; prix fixe $35 in Boston, $29 in Foxboro; children's under-12 menu $13 in Boston, $11 in Foxboro; sandwich $12 in Boston, $13 in Foxboro).
528 Commonwealth Ave.; 617-532-9100
This Traditional American–European inside Hotel Commonwealth will give thanks all day, beginning with its normal breakfast, 7–10:30 AM and continuing with a prix fixe dinner, which will include baked Island Creek oysters, roast turkey and lamb (1–8 PM; $50 per person, $20 for children).
61 Lowell Rd., Groton; 978-448-2900
Enjoy a traditional Thanksgiving at the contemporary yet bucolic surrounds of this steakhouse in Groton, where the three-course prix fixe includes New England–style roast turkey and stuffing (11:30 AM–7 PM; $35–$49 depending on entree).
44 Brattle St., Cambridge; 617-868-2255
Turkey with all the fixings is being offered at this Harvard Square New American as part of its three-course prix fixe; there will also be vegetarian options, including a roasted chestnut and marscarpone agnolotti (11:30 AM–7:30; $65 per person, $25 for children 12 and under, plus $15 for half-glass wine pairing, $25 for full-glass pairing).
Multiple locations
Though hours vary, all Legal Sea Foods will either be offering à la carte specials or a traditional turkey plate, including slow-roasted breast served with sausage, sage stuffing and mashed butternut squash; there will also be a child's portion available.
406 Stuart St.; 617-399-0015
Eric Brennan's Back Bay newcomer will be offering a special Thanksgiving menu in addition to the regular menu on T-Day. Expect a three-course prix fixe that includes choice of appetizer, entree and dessert (noon–8 PM; $42 per person).
1217 Main St., Hingham; 781-749-8200
Along with a traditional turkey dinner, this Hingham steakhouse will also offer alternatives like pumpkin ravioli as part of its three-course prix fixe (11:30 AM–7 PM; $34–$49).
378 Highland Ave., Somerville; 617-628-2877
Instead of your average pie, you can create a cupcake cornucopia with flavors such as a cinnamon chai pecan sticky cupcake or a cider cake with an apple compote center topped with hard-cider frosting. Order by Monday, November 23, to make it in time for Thanksgiving ($2.75 each, mini-cupcakes $1.25, extra large cupcakes $3.75).
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- – A baguette dropped by a bird stopped the Large Hadron Collider. [Times]
- – Linking obesity and cancer. [MSNBC]
- – Scripps (which owns the Food Network) sets its sights on the Travel Channel. [EMD]
- – Jamie Oliver, upholder of justice. [Telegraph]
- – How wine became a "fast food." [Daily Beast]
- – Daniel Boulud sets his sights on London. [Bloomberg]
- – LA's Orso prepares for a final bow. [NYT]
- – A long chat with Gordon Ramsay. [Telegraph]
- – Not kosher: Ilan Hall's bacon-wrapped matzoh balls. [Jewish Journal]
- – 7-Eleven gets ready to roll out its own wine. [MSNBC]
- – Why Guinness can taste different in Ireland (and elsewhere). [Accidental Hedonist]
- – Will laser etchings replace fruit and vegetable stickers? [Gizmodo]
- – Portion sizes, then and now. [DivineCaroline]
- – How exactly does Jell-O work? [BG]
- – Meat, the fabric. [EMD]
- – Cookie monster cupcakes love cookies. [Leila Cohan]
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Post 390
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant
Having spent much of this decade running the kitchens at Harvest and the now-closed Excelsior, Eric Brennan is a veteran of the Boston dining scene. This season, he's made a splash with the Back Bay newcomer Post 390. Brennan recently took a few minutes to discuss his latest venture.
Zagat Buzz: Post 390 is truly starting from scratch with a new building, new kitchen, new staff – how's it been going? Has this been a greater challenge than when you started at Excelsior?
Eric Brennan: Oh, yes, quite the challenge...fortunately, an experienced management team coupled with an energetic line staff has made the transition much easier. Thanks to the dedication from everyone involved, it’s been very successful.
ZB: Tell us a bit about the "Urban Tavern" concept of Post 390?
EB: The food and beverage work in harmony with the look and feel of
the restaurant.
I believe the menu, as a whole, fits the concept. Our maple-rubbed,
smoked St. Louis ribs with house made barbecue sauce (featuring our
home-brewed root beer as an ingredient) is definitely one of my
favorites. Our beer list focuses on small production craft brews with
an emphasis on local producers. We feature 12 beers on draft as well as
30 different bottled beers. Our wine list is representative of all
major wine producing regions while highlighting cult wineries, with all
bottles offered at a significant value.
ZB: After focusing on more high-end dining at Excelsior, how enjoyable has it been for you to feature such items as homemade root beer and family-recipe meatloaf on the new menu?
EB: Preparing refined American classics as opposed to creating a gourmet experience has been refreshing. Our guests are responding positively to a menu they can truly relate to. It’s been a great deal of fun cooking this style of cuisine.
ZB: The restaurant is located in the Back Bay but a short stroll from the South End. Who have you seen dining in the restaurant?
EB: Who haven’t we seen! Our location is ideal, being situated between two great neighborhoods. We’re thankful for the diversity of our guests...residents, professionals, tourists, restaurant-industry types. Being a new restaurant, feedback is very important to us. We’ve had our share of positive comments but helpful ones as well. I believe that people genuinely want us to succeed and their support has been welcomed.
ZB: As an experienced chef and a veteran of the local dining scene, who, if anyone, do you look to for ideas and inspiration?
EB: My mom.
– Eric Grossman
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Breakfast-and-lunch-only Haley House Bakery Café is breaking into dinner three nights a week. It's extended its hours Wednesday–Fridays until 9 PM (kitchen closes at 8:30 PM), and is now serving organic beer and wine to boot. To celebrate, there will be special deals and events including "pizza and jazz" Wednesdays featuring, well, live jazz and various pizzas; Thursday evening spoken-word readings from 7:30–9 PM; and vegan creations from chef Zakiya Alake from 5–8:30 PM on Fridays (617-445-0900).
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On November 14, The Bull Run Restaurant hosts the first annual "NOFA Nourishes Massachusetts" gala dinner, benefiting the Northeast Organic Farming Associations effort to organize local ongoing education and advocacy activities. Beginning with a silent auction and cocktails, the evening will progress with a multicourse dinner created with local and organic ingredients from Massachusetts farmers and producers. Afterward, David Barber, co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns will discuss the importance of small farms (6–9 PM; $100 per person; 215 Great Road/Rt. 2A in Shirley, MA; order tickets here or at http://ticketes.bullrunrestaurant.com).
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- – Illy is making inroads into U.S. coffee shops. [WSJ]
- – Gordon Ramsay is planning to bring the popular MasterChef to the U.S. [THR]
- – Sam Kass: assistant White House chef, policy wonk. [NYT]
- – Related: Iron Chef America heads to the White House. [NYT]
- – After 17 years, Jean-Georges is shutting down Vong. Though maybe not for long? [Eater]
- – Learning to compost in Chicago's public schools. [Chicago Tribune]
- – More on the affect of calorie counts on menus. [NYT]
- – The Kogi Truck folks in LA have their own custom car now. [Mouthing Off]
- – Kids menus should grow up. [BG]
- – What does your beer choice say about you? [AdAge]
- – Yellow Tail isn't the only Aussie wine, y'know. [WSJ]
- – One 225,000-ton ship, more than 24 dining options. [EMD]
- – Grant Achatz stands sternly in front of an airplane. [GS:C]
- – Is it a steak house or a gay bar? [SteakHouseorGayBar]
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Chris Douglas
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant
One of the South End's oldest establishments, Icarus, closed earlier this year, leaving chef-owner Chris Douglass to focus on his other eateries (Ashmont Grill and Tavolo), both located in his native Dorchester. The restaurateur took a break from handling the sale of Icarus to chat with the Buzz.
Zagat Buzz: At 30-plus years, Icarus had quite the run. Now that it’s over, how do you feel?
Chris Douglass: 32 years in fact, is an extremely long time in restaurant years. When we opened in 1978, the South End was nothing like the South End of today. There were a few pioneer homeowners and businesses, but it was still a very edgy neighborhood. I really loved being there and being part of its truly remarkable transition. Much of Icarus' success came from having a connection to our neighbors. We started out as a simple neighborhood joint with a blackboard menu, and evolved into one of the city's premier fine-dining establishments. We never lost sight, however, of our goal to provide great food and service. I'm proud of Icarus and the talented team there. It was a rewarding experience for us all.
ZB: Any memories or anecdotes from the early days?
CD: In the early days, we had one customer who always requested the window table. It wasn't for the view; it was so he could keep an eye on his Porsche out at the curb. There was no such thing as valet parking, and one was quite likely to get one's car stolen on Tremont Street.
ZB: For those only familiar with Icarus, who have yet to visit Ashmont Grill or Tavolo, how would you describe each?
CD: The thing that will be most familiar to Icarus customers when they come visit us in Dorchester is the warmth and friendliness of our staffs. We take pride in finding great people who love doing their job and love making the guests happy. The other thing they will be happy to note is we have brought two of Icarus' signature dishes to the restaurants. Grilled shrimp with mango and jalapeño sorbet is available at the Grill, and polenta with exotic mushrooms is served at Tavolo. Also, both restaurants have a great bar scene, and the clientele in both restaurants is very diverse – multiracial, straight, gay, hipster, parishioner, well-heeled, bohemian. It’s very cool. Quite a few leading politicians drop by both places as well.
ZB: You have ties to Dorchester, no? How has the area, and its dining scene, changed over the years?
CD: I've lived here for 20-plus years. It is a dynamic, diverse and community-involved area. Dorchester gets a pretty bum rap in the press, although I believe that is improving. I had wanted to open another restaurant for some time. When I would mention this to friends or neighbors, they were very persuasive in convincing me that Dorchester was desperate and ready to support a good restaurant. In many ways, Dorchester reminds me of the South End back when Icarus first opened: tons of community spirit, people making investments in their homes and making a real commitment to making urban living work. Dorchester is fast becoming a dining destination. In addition to Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, there are a number of really good ethnic restaurants – Vietnamese, Indian, Mexican, Caribbean.
ZB: For those unfamiliar with the Dot dining scene, there are some great, affordable options. Do you have any faves?
CD: I love the beef banh mi at Ba Le and the carnitas burrito at Real Taco, the Indian lunch buffet at Shanti and pho at any number of Vietnamese joints on Dorchester Avenue.
ZB: Final question – is there anything you think the city's culinary scene is lacking?
CD: I and others have been working hard to get a permanent public market established in Boston. We have amazing food resources and traditions in Boston and throughout New England, and we need a venue to highlight and support them. Public markets provide an opportunity for local farmers, fishers, cheesemakers, butchers and other food artisans to market directly to their customers. This is critical to keeping Massachusetts (and New England) involved in agriculture. It also provides a better profit margin, and therefore incentive, to food producers. Those of us involved with food in this region know just how good it can be. Having our own public market to showcase that food – like San Francisco's Ferry Terminal Building or Philadelphia's Reading Market – will show the world just how good it is.
– Eric Grossman
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Barbara Lynch's Drink
Photo: Mike Ritter
Though fine dining may have cooled off a little as a result of the past year’s economic turmoil, celeb chefs remain as popular as ever. And, fortunately, many of them have opened more casual concepts, allowing diners with tighter budgets to get a taste of their culinary vision. But how do these budget-minded sibs stack up against their high-end counterparts? Read up, and then add your own votes and opinions.
Barbara Lynch
One of the first ladies of Boston cuisine, Barbara Lynch's elegant dishes are available at several price ranges – whether you're looking for a tony night on Beacon Hill or casual bites paired with the perfect cocktail.
9 Park St.
(bet. Beacon & Tremont Sts.)
Boston, MA 02108
617-742-9991; Reserve Online
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 28 |
24 |
27 |
$75 |
Barbara Lynch still “dazzles” at her “jewel box”–esque Beacon Hill flagship where “movers and shakers” for whom “money is no object” “celebrate in style” with “elegant”, “intriguing” French-Italian creations that “marry unexpected tastes and textures” with “decadent, heavenly” results; if the “smaller-than-small portions” are occasional balloon-bursters, the “savvy”, “polished” “service team” and “superior” bartenders (“mixology is an art here”, as is wine selection) “heighten the experience” – right on up to “cloud 9.”
348 Congress St.
(bet. Farnsworth St. & Thomson Pl.)
Boston, MA 02210
617-695-1806
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| - |
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I |
This classy, pared-down Seaport District American from celebrity chef Barbara Lynch (No. 9 Park) pairs retro ’50s-style canapés – creamy deviled eggs, spicy cocktail wieners – with expertly mixed drinks; a simple wood-block bar snakes around the space, creating intimate corners, while hanging lights warm up the exposed brick and granite walls; N.B. those with insect phobias should steer clear of the glassed-in (dead) beetle display.
Dante de Magistris
With his creative takes on Italian cuisine, Dante de Magistris found success with his eponymous restaurant, and now the toque has spread his wings to open a small-plates, family-style spot in his native Belmont.
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 24 |
22 |
22 |
$48 |
The “devastatingly delicious”, “imaginative” Italian creations, “lively wine list” and “assiduous” service at this “modern”, “airy” spot in East Cambridge’s Royal Sonesta “exceed expectations for a hotel restaurant”, even though the “modest” food portions make it somewhat “overpriced”; on the other hand, the “unbelievable Sunday brunch” is a “value”, especially on the “sublime” patio with its “wonderful views of the Charles River.”
Il Casale
Photo: Mike Ritter
50 Leonard St.
(Moore St.)
Belmont, MA 02478
617-209-4942
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
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M |
Chef Dante de Magistris (dante) draws inspiration from his childhood summers spent in Southern Italy for small plates and family-style dinners served in a renovated 1899 Belmont firehouse, where handcrafted Vermont wood tables and hand-blown Venetian glass lanterns evoke the restaurant’s name (casale means ‘rural home’); the dining room features a communal table overlooking the open kitchen, and there’s sidewalk seating in warmer months.
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City Table has opened in the Lenox hotel.
Photo: courtesy of the Lenox Hotel
The Back Bay New American City Table replaces Azure as the Lenox’s premier dining destination, and though it’s kept the same chef – and retained many menu items – it’s offering more variety (including dinner sandwiches) and a lower price point all-around; it also sports a more casual, comfortable look, with banquettes, hardwood floors, earth tones, votive candles and an expansive bar area with high-top tables.
61 Exeter St.; 617-933-4800
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- – Talking with the troubled Ciprianis. [Vanity Fair]
- – The brewery behind PBR and Schlitz is for sale. [NYP]
- – Restaurants seek to better manage tip pools. [NRN]
- – Western foods are gaining in China. [ABC]
- – Where have all the Angostura bitters gone? [Bostonist]
- – Who gets all of those 7 PM reservations, anyway? [Between Meals]
- – The last days of Gourmet. [Last Days of Gourmet]
- – Nation's Restaurant News to go biweekly. [Food Writer's Diary]
- – Who needs to tip when you can buy the chef a beer? [GS:C]
- – 222.5 pounds? Now that's a big meatball. [MSNBC]
- – Could you eat 78 pieces of cutlery? Would you? [Daily Mail, via EMD]
- – The manually operated hamburger vending machine. [JapanProbe]
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David Chang's pork neck with succotash
Photo and recipe: courtesy of Phaidon Press
For its latest cookbook, Coco, Phaidon Press turned to 10 world-leading chefs – Ferran Adrià, Mario Batali, Shannon Bennett, Alain Ducasse, Fergus Henderson, Yoshihiro Murata, Gordon Ramsay, René Redzepi, Alice Waters and Jacky Yu – to each pick 10 contemporary chefs from around the world. In turn, each of those chefs then wrote a menu and recipes for the book. The final product is more than 400 pages of gorgeous photographs, mouthwatering recipes and interesting tidbits from kitchens around the world. Want a taste? After the jump, get the recipe for pork neck with succotash from New York chef David Chang (of the Momofuku empire).
Pork Neck with Succotash
Serves 4
Recipe by David Chang
For the pork neck
300 g kosher salt
270 g sugar
6 liters hot water
2 bay leaves
25 g black peppercorns
6 liters cold water
10 g pink salt
1 pork neck
- Mix the salt, sugar, hot water, bay leaves, and black peppercorns.
- Mix the cold water with the pink salt.
- Add the pork neck and confit 5 hours at 300°F (150°C) covered.
- When tender, press between 2 sheet trays. Portion into serving size pieces.
- Crisp on a griddle or pan to heat through.
For the succotash
100 g ground (minced) smoked, think-cut pork belly
12 g chanterelle mushrooms
250 g lima (butter) beans
175 g corn (sweetcorn) kernels
Butter for sautéing
1 tbsp tarragon, chopped
4 ml buttermilk
120 g butter
130 g arugula (rocket)
- Sauté the pork belly, chanterelles, lima beans, and corn in a pan.
- Finish with a pinch of salt and pepper, chopped tarragon, buttermilk, butter, and arugula.
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A bit out of the way and not worth finding.
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The Pacific Northwest is coming to Somerville. To Redbones, specifically. Next week – November 2, 3 and 4 – the barbecue joint features 15 brews on tap from Washington and Oregon as part of "The Keg Parties," which include a cash bar and free appetizers from 5–7 PM. Participating breweries include Anacortes Brewery & Rockfish Grill (WA), Pike Brewing Company (WA), Deschutes Brewery (OR) and Lucky Labrador Brewing Company (OR), and reps from Anacortes and Pike on hand to answer your questions. Just don't ask them to drink your beer for you (617-628-2200).
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- – Menu labeling hops onto health-care reform. [NRN]
- – 2009 had the worst honey crop on record. [Daily Green, via GS:C]
- – Not with a bang, but a whimper. Ramsay kills Kitchen Nightmares. [The Sun]
- – The return of the milkman. [WSJ]
- – Restaurants look to Halloween for a boost. [NRN]
- – The White House garden, by the numbers. [Obama Foodorama]
- – Europe's eel population is slipping away. [WSJ]
- – Costco is getting ready to accept food stamps. [CityRoom]
- – Hooters is facing a lawsuit for making its waitresses buy their uniforms. [NYP]
- – Just try and top this Halloween dish. [Not Martha]
- – 100-year-old whiskey, anyone? [GlobalPost]
- – In Illinois, 100 hours of community service or...a tray of jerk chicken? [Chicago Tribune]
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