Audrey Saunders at Commander's Palace.
photo: Carla Spartos
On a recent episode of Top Chef, one of the contestants, Hung, complained that cocktails are not appropriate for pairing with the "refined, beautiful, elegant food I cook." He was chafing at a Quickfire Challenge in which he and his fellow competitors were each asked to create a dish to pair with a different gin-based tipple. While Hung's comments may have been colored by his loss, he did have a point. Would a serious chef venture into martini territory? Doesn't alcohol deaden the palate?
For better or worse, the contest illustrated a recent preoccupation with the pairing of food and hard booze – a trend that was clearly in evidence Thursday night at Tales of the Cocktail, when "spirited" dinners showcasing the handiwork of all the star mixologists in town were hosted at an array of esteemed NOLA restaurants. Last night, the Buzz attended one such dinner at the famed Commander's Palace featuring guest mixologists Dale DeGroff and Audrey Saunders of NYC's Pegu Club.
Of the evening's five courses, the winning match proved to be an entree of bourbon and sugarcane smoked duck served with a Blood & Sand cocktail (an odd yet compelling mix of scotch, sweet vermouth, orange juice and cherry brandy). But the meal was also a potent reminder of the perils of such a pairing, namely that it's nigh impossible to enjoy the experience without winding up half in the bag (one gentleman who shall remain nameless arrived at Commander's Palace so blotto, it was all he could do to keep his head up through the blur of glasses and plates).
Thankfully, the cocktail pairing trend generally embraces smaller pours, with two-ounce portions being the most prevalent according to John Kinder of Chicago's Pump Room. Sometimes they're even alternated with wine: Todd Thrasher of DC's Restaurant Eve will throw a cocktail or two into the wine dinner mix. Yet Thrasher concedes the format works best with a group. After all, "They're out to have a party."
– Carla Spartos