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Service à la Mode

By Randi Gollin, ZAGAT.com staff editor

Now that celeb decorators and architects have become as de rigueur as superstar chefs for high-end restaurants, it's only fitting that fashion designers should follow suit.

Big-label names jump-started the trend a while back, with Giorgio Armani outfitting staffers at Armani/Nobu in Milan and Todd Oldham doing the same at Wish at The Hotel in Miami Beach, and they show no sign of stopping: in New York City, Narciso Rodriguez whipped up striking outfits for Del Posto, the just-opened Batali-Bastianich venture, while the team behind the relaunched Norman Norell New York line stepped up to the plate at Sascha, chef Sascha Lyon's upcoming Meatpacking District restaurant/bar/bakery.

Left to Right: Designs for Del Posto (Narciso Rodriguez); Wish (Todd Oldham); Sascha (Norman Norell New York)
Left to Right: Designs for Del Posto (Narciso Rodriguez); Wish (Todd Oldham); Sascha (Norman Norell New York)
Perry Street staff dressed in Calvin Klein
Perry Street staff dressed in Calvin Klein
Alinea chef-owner Grant Achatz in Z. Zegna
Alinea chef-owner Grant Achatz in Z. Zegna
Yeohlee-clad servers in The Modern's bar room (photo courtesy of Quentin Badcon)
Yeohlee-clad servers in The Modern's bar room
photo: Quentin Badcon
Bong Su hostesses will sport this sexy Calvin Tran tunic with pants, rather than hotpants
Bong Su hostesses will sport this sexy Calvin Tran tunic with pants, rather than hotpants

Hipster labels are hot too. NYC's Bette crew wears Earnest Sewn jeans, staffers at LA hot spots Bella and Geisha House don edgy Petro Zillia creations and Vietnamese designer Calvin Tran is dressing servers in silk tuxedo jackets and hostesses in slinky backless tunics at San Francisco's Bong Su, a sibling of Palo Alto's Tamarine opening in late February.

The increased focus on uniforms makes sense given that design and style "matter more now than ever before," says Lois Freedman, director of operations for Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurants, including his latest NYC venture, Perry Street. Dining out is no longer just about what's for dinner; it's about the mix of "food, service and atmosphere," Freedman notes.

In keeping with Perry Street's 1960s vibe, Freedman opted to go "back to basics and keep it really simple, but really chic," turning to designer Kevin Carrigan of Calvin Klein, who came up with smart black trousers and white shirts, worn with neckerchiefs for women and skinny black ties for men.

A very different look was required at Vongerichten's Asian-themed Spice Market in NYC's Meatpacking District. There, the call went to a lesser-known designer, Alpana Bawa, who created sexy Indian-inspired, open-backed tops for female staffers.

Grant Achatz, chef-owner of Chicago's innovative Alinea, wanted uniforms that would "uphold the image of the decor" – i.e. "very sleek and modern, yet very luxurious." He chose Ermenegildo Zegna's spin-off line, Z. Zegna. "When the service team puts on those suits, they gain confidence because they feel they look good and they're comfortable," Achatz explains.

While restaurateurs want uniforms to make a statement, few are looking to leave diners thinking "'wow, what a crazy dress she had on,'" notes Kristina O'Neal, one of the principals behind AvroKO, a cutting-edge design-and-concept firm that created the look for several NYC hot spots (Odea, Sapa, Stanton Social) as well as its own restaurant, Public.

Published Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:01 PM by BuzzEditor
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