By Jessica Grose and Liz Borod Wright, ZAGAT.com staff editors
Some places are hard to get into by virtue of their popularity; others achieve at least the aura of exclusivity by means of things like unlisted phone numbers and unmarked entrances. Following is a sampling of spots in various cities where you may need a little know-how, a little patience, a lot of luck – or simply the right connections – in order to get past the door, especially at prime times.
1723 N. Halsted St., Chicago, 312-867-0110
Flexibility is the key to cracking this avant-garde New American, which has been one of Chicago's most talked-about spots since opening last year. According to maitre d'hotel Katie Syracopoulos, the wait for reservations is currently eight weeks for prime-time slots on Fridays or Saturday nights. But if you're willing to dine on other nights, you can call just a week out to sample Grant Achatz's inventive cuisine.
The Brazen Head
3166 Buchanan St., San Francisco, 415-921-7600
The main secret to getting into this tiny, no-reserving San Francisco tavern is simply knowing about it: even though it's been around for over 25 years, it manages to hide in plain sight thanks to its lack of signage. Clued-in locals appreciate its friendly vibe, "unbelievable martinis" and classic American menu served until 1 AM.
111 S. Albion Pl., Atlantic City, 609-345-2022
Tables are reserved by regulars at the beginning of the year at this family-run Italian joint near the Boardwalk in Atlantic City, making it especially difficult for nonregulars to snag a seat. So do as our surveyors suggest and get to "know the right people," starting with mama – according to Louis Esposito, the son of owner Louise Esposito, "basically my mother handles [the reservations]."
9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-275-9444
Regulars have the best shot at getting in (and being seated immediately) at this clubby Hollywood Italian institution and celeb magnet. If you aren't among those who dine here several times a week, plan on calling about four days ahead to land a table, and don't be surprised if, as some surveyors report, you wind up waiting "forever" to be seated.
106 Kenmare St., Manhattan, 646-613-7100
Cool-hunters don't let themselves get sidetracked by this Manhattan Mexican's taco stand or cafe, but instead focus on the underground (literally) dining scene. Sure, you can make reservations (accepted up to three weeks in advance), but even so it feels like a coup to get in thanks to its speakeasylike entrance routine: walk through the taco stand's "employees only" door and head downstairs, where you'll be escorted through the kitchen to the dining room.
134 Eldridge St., Manhattan, unlisted phone
Famed for owner-mixologist Sasha Petraske's fresh-ingredient cocktails, this sign-less boîte is one of Manhattan's toughest doors. Reservations via a secret, unlisted phone number are mandatory, and even if you manage to get the magic number (best bets are a connected friend or a Web search), it's been known to change. But you can always drown your disappointment at one of Petraske's other, more accessible Manhattan ventures (East Side Company Bar, Little Branch) or try Milk and Honey's London outpost, which functions as a private club but allows nonmembers to make reservations before 11 PM.
Minibar at Café Atlantico
photo: Robert Finkelstadt
405 Eighth St. NW, Washington, DC, 202-393-0812
The only way to score one of the six seats at the Minibar – located within Café Atlantico, the popular DC Nuevo Latino – is to call 30 days in advance. "For a December 3rd reservation, you call November 3rd. There are two seatings, one at 6:30, and one at 8:30, and calls are only accepted between 9 and 11 AM and 2:30 and 4 PM," explains host Stanley Gray. So plan ahead and hit that speed dial if you want to experience its creative tasting menu featuring 30-plus bite-size offerings.
PX
728 King St., Alexandria, VA, 703-299-8384
Visual cues point the way to this swanky, speakeasy-themed upstairs lounge in Alexandria's Old Town. First check to see if the pirate flag is flying above the entrance to Eammon's – A Dublin Chipper (which, like the lounge, is owned by Cathal and Meshelle Armstrong, of Restaurant Eve fame), then go around the corner and look for an unmarked door with a blue light and buzz for entry. Cocktails and a hip vibe await.
455 E 114th St., Manhattan, 212-722-6709
The all-time champ of tough-to-book restaurants may be NYC's Rao's, where if you're not a regular or friend of a regular, getting in is nigh on impossible. What can average folk do? Co-owner Ron Straci says, "If you come to the restaurant and get a drink at the bar, ask when the next table is open. It might be six months from now, but you might get a reservation." Rao's rejects may face better odds in Vegas, where a branch of the original is opening at Caesars Palace in December, complete with reservations line (702-731-RAOS).