White truffles are in stock at restaurants like L'Anima.
photo: Cindy Chen
It’s back! The elusive white Alba truffle, generally available only from the end of October through early December (if we're lucky enough to have the season last that long), has returned to restaurant kitchens around town. Costing nearly £6,000 a kilo in Harrods Food Hall, the lovely lumps of flavour may be too rich for some diners' pocketbooks even when paying by the gram (and especially in this economic climate). But if you're looking to indulge in the hog-attracting fungi, the restaurants below are happy to oblige; N.B. prices may vary as the truffle market fluctuates.
19-20 Dover St., W1; 020-7495 4768
At this Mayfair Italian, the following dishes can now be ordered with truffles for a supplemental cost: veal fillet tartar with Parmesan shaving and white truffle (add £35), scrambled eggs with white truffle and croutons (add £35), taglierini with white truffle (add £35), pumpkin tortelli with butter and sage and white truffle (add £35) and roasted guinea fowl with sweet button onions, chestnut purée and white truffle (add £45).
1 Snowden St., EC2; 020-7422 7000
The following dishes all include white truffles at this Italian new arrival to the City: seared diver scallops with burrata soup (£45), fried quail eggs and chestnut (£40), raw beef and rocket (£35), risotto with aged Parmesan (£35), tagliolini with butter and aged Parmesan (£35) and veal fillet and caciocavallo cheese (£45).
20 Queen St., W1; 020-7592 1222
The White truffle can be added to menu items at Gordon Ramsay–protegé Angela Hartnett's new Italian in Mayfair until mid-November at a supplement of £45. Dishes that can take the heralded tuber include Italian scrambled eggs with white truffle, Carnaroli risotto with two-year-old Parmesan, grilled charlotte potatoes with shaved pecorino and sautéed Scottish scallops with celeriac purée.
10 Blenheim St., W1; 020-7495 1509
True to its name, this intimate Blenheim Italian keeps it simple by letting diners choose how much truffle (at £7 per gram, with a recommendation 4–6 grams per portion) they want to add to dishes such as scrambled eggs (£9), housemade egg taglialini (£11), risotto (£13) and beef carpaccio (£12).
Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd., W6; 020-7386 4200
This Hammersmith legend has reopened after a recent fire just in time to take advantage of truffle season. The truffled offerings change daily, but all are priced at £50 and contain 5 grams of Tuscan white truffle; dishes include taglierini alla Piemontese, carne crudo (finely chopped raw beef fillet with Parmesan slivers, mache and 12-year-old balsamic vinegar) and zuppa di castagne (chestnut-and-pancetta soup with bay, juniper, cream and Parmesan).
15 Lowndes St., SW1; 020-7235 5800
For a £45 supplement, this Belgravia Italian will add a magnificent 10 grams of truffle to dishes such as tagliatelle with double cream, butter and Parmesan cheese; carpaccio with balsamic-vinegar reduction; cheese fondue with poached egg and porcini soldiers; and scrambled eggs with bruschettas – also the eggs are stored with the truffles so they naturally take on the truffle fragrance.