Gordon Ramsay's The Narrow
Photo by Cindy Chen
Though fine dining may have cooled off a little as a result of the past year’s economic turmoil, celeb chefs remain as popular as ever. And, fortunately, many of them have opened more casual concepts, allowing diners with tighter budgets to get a taste of their culinary vision. But how do these budget-minded sibs stack up against their high-end counterparts? Read up, and then add your own votes and opinions.
Gordon Ramsay
Say what you will about the man, but you've got to give Gordo credit for making sure he's got both ends of the dining spectrum covered.
68 Royal Hospital Rd.
London SW3
020-7352-4441
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 28 |
25 |
28 |
£108 |
“From amuse-bouches to petit fours”, the “transcendent, whimsically elegant” New French fare “dazzles” at “star chef” Gordon Ramsay’s “Chelsea flagship”, once again London’s No. 1 for Food; perhaps the “peripatetic” toque is rarely in the “clean-lined”, cream-and-ivory house these days, “but he can train staff” to deliver “impeccable” “not-at-all-sycophantic service” (“headed by suave manager Jean-Claude Breton” and executive chef Mark Askew); yes, “the reservation dance is maddening” and “prices aren’t for the fainthearted”, but “in short, it’s a must-visit.”
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 21 |
20 |
19 |
£33 |
“The remote location only adds to the charm” of this “homely” Limehouse gastropub where “calm” servers proffer “simple, comforting” Traditional Brit fare; “if the menu is a bit ‘laddish’” and “a little narrow”, at least the place is “not that pricey, given it’s on the river – and a Gordon Ramsay” venue to boot.
Heston Blumenthal
Those willing to make the journey to Bray to try Heston Blumenthal's beloved cooking likely won't be disappointed – whether they go to his flagship or next door where the chefs fingerprints are all over the menu.
High St.
Bray SL6
0162-8580-333
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 27 |
23 |
27 |
£133 |
Heston Blumenthal’s “shrine” to “experimental eaters with refined palates” creates “multisensory experiences” via an “astonishing” tasting menu of “haute” Modern European cuisine with a “molecular gastronomic twist” (think nitro-scrambled egg and bacon ice cream); “engaging, entertaining service” and an “unusual wine list” help soften the “extreme prices”, and though this “simple” Bray cottage is “a long drive from London proper” (about an hour),“it does not get better than this.”
High St.
Bray SL6
016-2862-6151
| Food |
Decor |
Service |
Cost |
| 24 |
21 |
22 |
£43 |
A “neighbour to the Fat Duck and from the same stable”, this “quaint” Bray boozer dating back to the 1600s shows what British “country cooking should be like” when “world-famous” consulting chef/co-patron Heston Blumenthal applies his “magic to traditional pub fare”; all-in-all, it makes “a great place to while away a whole afternoon – and a fair amount of cash too.”