Daniel Humm
Photo: courtesy of Eleven Madison Park
Under the tenure of Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm, Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park has risen to become one of the Most Popular and top-rated restaurants in town. We caught up with the chef, just back from a well-deserved vacation, for some insight into his winning formula.
Zagat Buzz: What do you think it is about your cooking that keeps the restaurant in such high regard?
Daniel Humm: I really don’t think it is just about my cooking. I was the first to come on with the new team a few years ago, but since then, the management and staff that have joined have also been a big part of the process. There are so many things that go into it, down to the amazing room – it’s so much more than the cooking, though that’s definitely part of it.
ZB: Despite being open for years, critics keep coming back to EMP. Do you expect that?
DH: No, not really, but we always try to be at our
best and to perform as if critics were coming in all the time. When
you notice that a critic is coming in over and over, you do start to
think about why. Let’s just say that whoever you are, if you visit very
often, we will notice.
ZB: Do you feel more pressure now as critic's darling?
DH: I would be lying if I said I didn’t. I’m trying to keep a “business as usual” attitude, but when the spotlight is on you, you feel that everyone is watching everything you say or do.
ZB: Where do you see yourself as a chef in 20 years?
DH: I don’t know if I see myself in a particular location, but I would love to leave a mark in the business, especially through mentoring younger chefs and teaching them that it takes time to do something right.
ZB: Do you see yourself returning to Europe one day?
DH: I don’t know. I really like cooking in America. My wife is American. I love Europe, but I am really enjoying my time here.
ZB: So what are your immediate goals?
DH: Just to continue the quality of Eleven Madison and do my best to keep it up and continue to improve in every way. Just because you get four stars doesn’t mean you’re dead, and that it’s time to quit trying.
ZB: What are some of the highlights of your upcoming fall menu?
DH: I like doing these themed tasting menus. For example, I’m
doing one now based on suckling pig. In the fall, I’m excited about
doing a game-themed tasting menu. We are currently consulting with game
producers in Scotland for it. Expect dishes with wild boar, hare and partridge.
– Kathleen Squires