By Betsy Andrews, ZAGAT.com staff editor
It used to be that fame, beauty, style or the right connections were what it took to get past the velvet rope at hot nightspots. But these days just about anybody can buy themselves into the scene via bottle service.
The trend started in Europe, spread to New York and is now common throughout the States. From Philly's Denim to Vegas' Risqué to LA's Spider Club, you'll find patrons partying like rock stars at tables with bottles of liquor and mixers, making their own drinks or having their servers pour.
The appeal for club owners is as clear as a dry martini: bottles typically sell for $250 and up – a 1,000% markup – and minimum purchases apply. But the impresarios believe there's also lots in it for customers. Says Noah Tepperberg, co-owner of NYC's Marquee, "You can leave your jacket or purse and sit when you want. The table is your own piece of real estate."
Amy Sacco of Manhattan's chic Bungalow 8 and Lot 61 suggests, "It's great to do with a client or date you want to impress. The staff will pay more attention to you and remember you when you come back."
But not everyone is high on the concept. Hipsters dis it as the death of the cool. And Zagat surveyors who've tried it have mixed opinions. For some it's the "best bet" for "feeling comfortable" and being treated "like an A-lister," while for others it's "obnoxious" and "not worth it."
All agree it will cost you, though, so before plunking down your platinum card, consider these tips:
- Be Choosy: Any joint can cordon off a couple of tables and call it a VIP area. But a club that centers around bottle service is more likely to be "designed for comfort" and staffed by well-trained servers, according to Jamie Mulholland of NYC's super-swank Cain.
- Book Ahead: A reservation generally guarantees seats. Otherwise, you might find yourself on the sidewalk in a bouncer-orchestrated bottle-bidding war.
- Do Research: Ask beforehand about minimums (usually one bottle per four people), gratuities (often 20% tacked onto the bill), cancellation fees, table time limits and menus.
- Mix It Up: Clubs are always concerned that there aren't enough women in the house, so a group with a good girl-to-guy ratio is likely to have an easier time at the door. They're also less likely to be pressured to spend as much as an all-guy group.
- Living Large: If you're really looking for luxe, bottle service is only the beginning. Some high-end spots offer perks like concierge service, or a limo with a designated driver – for an extra (stiff) charge, of course.
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