With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, it's a good time to talk about champagne, an essential accompaniment for any festive meal. James Hayes, associate beverage director for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group (and former head sommelier at New York City's Per Se), chatted with the Buzz about the basics of bubbly.
Zagat Buzz: How did the tradition of drinking champagne to celebrate special occasions get started?
James Hayes: Champagne has always been associated with both royalty and luxury, and for good reason. Reims, in the heart of Champagne, houses a famous cathedral where the kings of France throughout history were crowned. Quite obviously they served the wines of the region at the coronation celebrations, giving a start to champagne’s reputation as a wine of kings around the world.
ZB: What temperature do you recommend people serve champagne at?
JH: Temperature is a very important consideration for all wines and champagnes that is often overlooked. Frequently, I find that some restaurants serve whites too cold and reds too warm – it can really do a disservice to a great bottle. For me champagne is, in most cases, best served cold – about 43–45 degrees. There are certainly exceptions to that approach: some top Tête de Cuvée champagnes and older vintage champagnes will show their best closer to about 52 degrees. At the end of the day, your personal preference is really the only thing that matters.
ZB: Does the type of stemware used actually make a difference?
JH: The type of stemware does make a difference. The safe play is always a traditional flute, but some champagnes benefit from a larger glass. Jacques Selosse is a champagne producer whose wines are so rich they taste much better in a Chardonnay-style glass. The bigger bowl gives them a chance to breathe and open up – they become much more complex. One consideration to remember is the bubbles. If you like your champagne very bubbly, then stick with a flute – the bigger the glass you use, the faster the carbonation will disappear.
ZB: What champagnes do you recommend for celebrating a special occasion?
JH: Unfortunately, good champagne is always going to be fairly expensive. For the best values, look to the “multi-vintage” or “non-vintage” blends – these are champagnes that contain wines from a few different years, and typically are produced to showcase a producer’s “house-style.” One of the best values out there is a small producer named Aubry – their multi-vintage brut can typically be had off a restaurant wine list for under $100, which for a top-quality bottle is a good deal.
James Hayes
Photo: courtesy of Per Se
In the midrange, you can step up to vintage-dated champagnes – wines that come from a single year. One of my favorites year in and year out is Pol Roger – they make very pretty, clean and pure champagnes that are great at the start of a meal.
If you are looking for a super-special bottle of champagne, there is certainly no shortage of choices. Practically every producer has a Tête de Cuvée or top bottling of champagne in their lineup. For Moët & Chandon, it is Dom Perignon, for Louis Roederer it is Cristal. All the most famous and luxurious champagnes out there fit into this category and they are always very expensive. Everyone has a favorite – mine is Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, a single-vineyard champagne produced from 100% Chardonnay. For me there is no champagne more delicious and more elegant.
ZB: With prosecco becoming more popular, do you feel people are becoming less selective about drinking “pure” champagne?
JH: Nothing will ever replace true champagne – the soil and climate in [the Champagne] region is simply more perfect than anywhere else for producing great sparkling wine. Other interpretations from around the globe offer a fun, and less expensive, alternative, but most simply do not come close to matching the elegance and complexity found in a great bottle of champagne.
ZB: How long can you hold onto an average bottle of champagne before it turns?
JH: It depends on the wine and how you store it – some top champagnes can last for 50 years or longer if cellared perfectly. Most multi-vintage champagnes are ready to drink when you get them. I wouldn’t recommend keeping a bottle of one of those around for more than a couple years.
ZB: What desserts do you recommend pairing with champagne?
JH: Look for similar flavors in your wine and on your plate – for young white champagnes, apple or stone fruit tarts and pastries work great. For rosé champagnes, lighter berry desserts are perfect. For older champagnes, nut- and caramel-based desserts are a nice match. One big no-no is any kind of chocolate – I have found it to be a dreadful pairing with white champagnes especially.
ZB: Any tips for popping the cork without breaking a lightbulb?
JH: Practice, practice, practice – opening a bottle of champagne perfectly is easier said than done. Try your best to ease the cork out slowly, trying for a “hiss” instead of a “pop.”