San Francisco

Som Enchanted Evening

2009-11-20T20:51:00Z

Behind a facade of artfully lit wine bottles lies Som, a music-focused Mission newcomer whose sleek, minimalist interior sports a walnut-topped bar, some black-leather seating and not much more – which leaves plenty of room for dancing to Brazilian beats (som is Portuguese for ‘sound’) on Wednesdays and just about any other genre you can think of the rest of the week; generally moderately priced, the cocktail menu is short but sweet, highlighted by a few classic concoctions made with top-shelf ingredients.

2925 16th St.; 415-431-8889

Dining News Elsewhere: Obese Americans, Ramsay Loses His Number Two

2009-11-20T17:22:00Z

– By 2018, 43% of Americans are expected to be obese. [NYDN]
– Gordon Ramsay has lost his right-hand man. [Bloomberg]
– The Senate is considering requiring beef to be tested for E. coli. [NYT]

– Top Chef contestants aren't being paid for the TV dinners that feature their faces (and recipes). [Time]
– First canned pumpkins, now an Eggo shortage looms. [NYDN]
– The art of complaining to a restaurant. [Guardian]
– A modest proposal for fixing restaurant and bar smoking bans. [Eater]
– Related: the science behind banning smoking outside. [Time]
– Ever wonder what it would be like to cook dinner for Thomas Keller? [Esquire]
– Talking cooking with Coolio. [Fork in the Road]
– NBC's newest cooking show, United Plates of America, will give away a four-restaurant chain. [Reuters]
– Hey, so, while you eat that sushi, this guy here is going to swallow a sword. [WSJ]
– Starbucks continues to roll out its unbranded coffee shops. [Diner's Journal]
– If New York loses its lawsuit, Tavern on the Green will become Tavern in the Park. [Crain's]
– Restaurants embrace Twilight. [NRN]
– Martha Stewart is not a fan of Rachael Ray. [ABC News, via EMD and GS]
– The Rolling Stones, the wine. [Examiner]
– Pork belly and other over-served dishes. [Between Meals]
– Students arrested for not paying their tip. [Philly]
– Plastic wishbones: what will the kids fight over? [SE]

Two More Nights of TWO

2009-11-19T21:54:00Z

Although he’s still hosting private parties, chef-owner David Gingrass has decided to close his SoMa restaurant TWO ahead of schedule, making way for its replacement, benu, in 2010. If you'd like one more meal at TWO, however, the last dinner service is tomorrow night, and there are still reservations available (415-777-9779).

No More Nouveau

2009-11-18T21:33:00Z

Not one to get into the Beaujolais spirit? You aren't alone. In fact, one contrarian wine merchant is hosting a no-holds-barred “No More Nouveau” wine tasting in honor of the big day, choosing instead to uncork the best of Cru Beaujolais wines from France’s top natural winemakers. On Thursday, November 19, Arlequin Wine Merchant, which is part of the Absinthe and Arlequin café trilogy in Hayes, will be celebrating what they call the “real” Beaujolais from award-winning Cru Beaujolais producers including Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Pierre Chermette, Jean Paul Brun, Alain Coudert, John-Paul Thévenet and more. These wines are made using the so-called vieux (old) way, fermented on natural yeasts and bottled unfiltered, resulting in a wine that’s richer, broader and boasts denser reds than the Beaujolais Nouveau most wine drinkers are familiar with (6–8 PM; $15 per person; 384 Hayes St, all featured wines will be available for purchase at special event pricing).

For a taste of some less-nouveau Beaujolais, head over to RN74, where sommelier Ragat Parr won’t be pouring the new stuff, but rather will be opening a bountiful selection of Beaujolais from 2005–2008, available by the bottle or by the glass.

Dining News Elsewhere: Koodies, Samuelsson Goes to Washington

2009-11-18T17:25:00Z

– Marcus Samuelsson will be working the kitchen at Obama's first state dinner. [Obama Foodorama]
– The fight for Cadbury intensifies. [WSJ]
– Chipotle sets its sights on London, Europe. [NRN]

– Costco drops Coke. [AP]
– Related: Coke bottles, 1899–1986. [Pixdaus]
– Milk producers wish they could sell their product "raw." [NYT]
– Hooters is having trouble in Vegas. [Eater]
– A canned pumpkin shortage looms. [Diner's Journal]
– Putting things in perspective with the Fat Map. [HP]
– Jamie Oliver wants to help you find a date. [Marketing]
– A Shake Shack in Boston looks increasingly possible. [GS:B]
– What a $20 Thanksgiving feast from Walmart gets you. [The Awl]
– A word we'd like to quickly forget? "Koodie." [SE]
– Foods named after people. [Mental Floss and Cakespy, via SE]
– They found water on the moon...can you drink it? [Slate]
– Making mushrooms with coffee grinds. [Chronicle, via Coldmud]
– Making art with meat, some wires, a videocamera and a stove. [EMD]

Gingerbread Wishes

2009-11-17T21:39:00Z

One Market's gingerbread kit

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Here’s a fun and tasty way to channel your inner pastry chef: throughout the month of November, guests at Lark Creek Steak, Lark Creek Walnut Creek, One Market, Tavern at Lark Creek and Yankee Pier can decorate a star-shaped gingerbread cookie, and in the process, raise money for the Make-A-Wish Foundation. The cookies will be featured on the dessert menu during all meal services, cost $10 and are presented tableside with a decorating kit. Similar kits can also be ordered to-go, since every sweet adds up. The entirety of the proceeds benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation, and according to the restaurant group, it’s raised more than $32,000 through the annual Gingerbread Wishes campaign since 2007.

Bringing Back Bruno's

2009-11-17T16:51:00Z

Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Bruno's, the onetime Rat Pack hang in the Mission, is aiming to lure back serious diners with a small, rotating, midpriced menu from chefs Ryan Ostler and Katharine Zacher, whose made-from-scratch American comfort and soul food (think 20-hour smoked brisket, pulled pork sandwiches and homemade Whoopie Pie) won raves at the dive bar Broken Records; the retro setting features a leopard-print carpet, red leather banquettes and a mural depicting Kewpie dolls and other iconic kitsch.

2389 Mission St.; 415-643-5200

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Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Getting Into That Beaujolais Spirit

2009-11-16T23:27:00Z

Photo: courtesy of FI:AF

Celebrating the release of the new Beaujolais vintage on the third Thursday in November is a Gallic tradition that local party-goers and wine buffs have long embraced. This year, the fresh run-off will be hitting our shores on November 19, and with it comes charcuterie and wine-fueled partying at French Quarter haunts like Café Bastille, Café Claude and Gitane, as well as at bistros and brasseries throughout the Bay Area. To add to the buzz, longtime producer Georges Duboeuf has already gone on record predicting the 2009 vintage will be one of the best Beaujolais vintages in the last 50 years.

Here are some more ways to partake in French savoir-vivre.

Roland Passot’s chain of Left Bank brasseries will be offering a range of à la carte specials along with the regular menu on the big day. In Menlo Park, highlights include pithiviers de canard (duck and pork with a port wine sauce, $10) and poire pochée au Beaujolais Nouveau (pear poached in Beaujolais with vanilla crème fraîche, $7) to go along with Mommessin wine. At the Santana Row outpost in San Jose, specials include saucisses grillées (housemade pork sausages, red-wine braised lentils and baby vegetables, $16), while at the Larkspur flagship, guests can order special courses like as sandre aux échalottes confites (walleye, shallot confit and savoy cabbage, $19.75) or craft their own three-course prix fixe from the holiday options ($36 per person). At all three locations, there will be Mommessin wine available by the glass ($6.50), carafe ($16.25) or bottle ($26) to round off the meal.

Vive le Nouveau at Grand Cafe, Downtown’s paean to La Coupole, which on November 19 will host an evening of festivities, starting with the official tapping of the wine barrel and a complimentary glass of the 2009 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau and appetizers at the bar. Celebrants then move on to the grand dining room for a three-course prix fixe (5:30–10 PM: $39 per person, $54 with recommended wine pairing; 415-292-0101).

For something more down-home but equally fun, Cole Valley’s Zazie will be decorated with grapes and red cloths while the staff and customers are encouraged to wear their most outrageous red outfits. A special three-course dinner will include le potimaroon for two (roasted sugar pie pumpkin filled with cheese fondue and toasted baguette), braised duck leg with dried plums and butternut squash and chestnut ravioli (seatings at 5:30 PM, 9:15 PM and 9:30 PM still available; $49 per person including pairings with three Beaujolais Nouveaus; to reserve call 415-564-5332).

Later that weekend, on November 21, the French American Chamber of Commerce will be hosting its 28th annual La Soirée at the Hyatt Regency – an evening promising French food, first wines, dancing and silent auctions (5:30–9:30 PM: $60 per non-member, $50 per member; to purchase tickets, click here).

Also on November 21, the annual alfresco Parisian celebration at Café Fanny will happen in Berkeley, with a tent full of live music, food courtesy of former Chez Panisse and Eccolo chef Chris Lee and wines sold by Kermit Lynch (11 AM–4 PM; admission is free, but tipples and nibbles will be sold separately; 510-524-5447).

Dining News Elsewhere: Buzzy Booze, Subway in the Sky

2009-11-16T16:51:00Z

– The FDA is targeting caffeinated booze. [WSJ]
– Meanwhile, its efforts to ban eating raw oysters didn't work out so well. [NYT]
– Burger King franchisees lose 10¢ for every $1 double cheeseburger sold. [NRN]

– A special Subway franchise is set to rise up with the Freedom Tower in New York. [NYP]
– U.S. chicken production is set to fall for the first time in 36 years. [Reuters]
– Champagne sales are a bit flat these days. [NYT]
– Musicians do covers of other bands' hits, why shouldn't chefs cover other toques' recipes? [Guardian]
– Pinkberry's further expansion plans include Boston, DC, New Orleans and Mexico. [Eater]
– Why we read cookbooks. [The New Yorker]
– Want a new drug? Synthetic alcohol isn't out of the question. [Scotsman, via ColdMud]
– Just when we've gotten used to twist-off tops, get ready for wine in a plastic bottle. [Stuff]
– Things a restaurant patron should never do. [Applesauce]
– Related, 10 dirty restaurant tricks. [Slashfood]
– Peace through hummus. [Economist]
– Hard to turn down a "love dessert" made with passion fruit and...Viagra. [NYDN]

Outtake of the Week

2009-11-13T22:52:00Z

Authenticity has never been more perfectly faked.

Thanksgiving '09: Outside SF

2009-11-13T16:18:00Z

Lake Chalet

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

If you're not celebrating Thanksgiving in the city, consider enjoying your holiday feast at one of these Bay Area restaurants:

Marin and Wine Country

Bardessono

6526 Yount St., Yountville; 707-204-6030

Details are still being worked out, but this eco-chic Yountville New American promises a traditional Thanksgiving menu served family-style (noon–8 PM; $55 per adult, $25 per child 10 and under).

Brix

7377 St. Helena Hwy., Napa; 707-944-2749

Chef Anne Gingrass-Paik will prepare a garden-to-table, three-course prix fixe at this Napa Cal-Med – think roast turkey with fennel sausage and sourdough stuffing with Brussels sprouts, yams and cranberry sauce (2–8 PM; $62 per adult, $20 per child; wine pairings available for an additional $35 per person).

Dry Creek Kitchen

317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-431-0330

Charlie Palmer’s New American in Healdsburg is offering a three-course holiday menu with leg “torchon” and roasted breast, accompanied by a cherry marmalade and sourdough stuffing gratin, plus starters like pork belly "Napoleon" and ahi carpaccio. Bonus: if you tote in local Sonoma wine, the corkage fee is waived (2–7 PM; $65 per person).

Left Bank

507 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-927-3331

Like its Santana Row and Menlo Park brethren, the Larkspur flagship of this French chainlet will be serving a four-course prix fixe that ranges from a traditional turkey spread to more Franco-inspired fare like smoked rack of pork with celery root mousseline, plus a vegetarian-friendly autumn risotto with seasonal mushroom fricassee. Limited à la carte options and a kids' menu will also be available (noon–8 PM; $39.75 per person).

Poggio

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito; 415-332-7771

Mangia Italian-style at this Sausalito trattoria whose prix fixe menu will showcase the fall vegetable harvest from its own organic garden. The meal, available throughout the day, begins with a choice of starters followed by free-range turkey cooked two ways and served with traditional sides (11:30 AM–9:30 PM; $45 per person).

Tavern at Lark Creek

234 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-924-7766

Heritage turkey is the main star of the meal at this reinvented Larkspur restaurant, where new chef Randy Lewis prepares a three-course prix fixe with options for each course, including fall squash soup topped with a ginger beer–sage sabayon and a pork chop with dried cranberry tapenade and oven roasted potatoes (noon–8 PM; $59 per adult, $24 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

Yankee Pier

multiple locations

Sure, you can get your plate-o' turkey with the fixings at this New England–style seafooder's four locations, but you can also break with tradition by ordering a boiled whole Maine lobster, available as part of this three-course T-Day menu (1–8 PM; $39 per adult, $19.95 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

East Bay

Five

2086 Allston Way, Berkeley; 510-845-7300

At the newly renovated Hotel Shattuck Plaza, chef Scott Howard’s sustainable, local à la carte menu includes starters like braised pork belly with gigante beans, while mains include a smoked glazed pork chop, petrale sole with Dungeness crab mashed potatoes and, of course, roasted turkey with yukon potato purée, chestnut stuffing and gravy (seatings at 3, 5 and 7 PM).

Lake Chalet

1520 Lakeside Dr., Oakland; 510-208-5253

With its plentiful sunshine and lake views, this Oakland newcomer in the Lake Merritt Boathouse will be serving an all-day buffet featuring roasted turkey, prime rib and grilled salmon with traditional sides including stuffing, cranberry sauce, candied yams, glazed carrots, pecan salad and mashed potatoes, plus pumpkin and pecan pie (10 AM–10 PM; $32 per adult, $16 per child 11 and under, $26 per senior).

Lark Creek Walnut Creek

1360 Locust St., Walnut Creek; 925-256-1234

Thanksgiving is a no-brainer at this Walnut Creek American, where chef Scott Wall will roll out a three-course menu with Dungeness crab cakes, roast turkey with garlic mashed potatoes, sage cornbread stuffing, candied yams, giblet gravy and cranberry sauce. The all-American wine list makes it easy to keep to the patriot theme (1–8 PM; $49 per adult, $25 per child 10 and under, free for children under three).

Miss Pearl’s Jam House

1 Broadway, Oakland; 510-444-7171

Forget the Parker rolls and bland turkey, and opt instead for Jamaican skillet bread, spiced sweet potato fries and jerk chicken at Joey Altman's Caribbean spot in Jack London Square (noon–9 PM; à la carte only).

Picán

2295 Broadway, Oakland; 510-834-1000

At this Southern restaurant in Uptown, the four-course, family-style meal includes pecan wood–smoked turkey, mustard-glazed ham, corn spoonbread, oyster, crawfish and andouille stuffing, sweet potato gratin and a serve-yourself dessert bar (seatings at 11 AM, 1 and 3 PM; $49 per adult, $25 per child 12 and under).

South

Aquarius

175 W. Cliff Dr., Santa Cruz; 831-460-5012

Panoramic ocean views and surfer-chic decor complete a picture-perfect setting for Turkey Day at this modern American bistro in the newly renovated Santa Cruz Dream Inn. As for the meal, options on the three-course prix fixe include herb-roasted turkey and Angus prime rib, both served with three accompaniments (2–9 PM; $35 per person; à la carte menu also available).

LB Steak

334 Santana Row, San Jose; 408-244-1180

At Roland Passot’s Santana Row steakhouse, in addition to a limited à la carte menu, there will be two four-course prix fixes available. One features roasted turkey breast with leg confit, leeks served with chanterelles, Brussels sprouts with lardoons and cranberry relish ($22.50 per person), while the other showcases Omaha prime rib of beef au jus with Yukon gold mashed potatoes, fall vegetables gâteau and horseradish cream sauce ($30 per person). Both menus come with soup, salad and dessert (noon–8 PM).

Madera

2825 Sand Hill Rd., Menlo Park; 650-561-1500

At this Menlo Park New American, chef Peter Rudolph will serve a three-course holiday menu with choices including braised pheasant leg, rotisserie turkey breast stuffed with porcini and turkey sausage, sides like carrots, salsify and nettles and a crab apple crostada. Want wine with that? Recommendations for each course will be available (11 AM–9 PM; $95 per person).

Plumed Horse

14555 Big Basin Way, Saratoga; 408-867-4711

Diners can trot to this tony Saratoga Californian for a prix fixe menu of traditional Thanksgiving offerings plus some of the restaurant's signature dishes (3–8 PM; $80 per person).

Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay

1 Miramontes Point Rd., Half Moon Bay; 650-712-7000

The Ritz is offering an array of options. A daytime Harvest Brunch, accompanied by a live jazz trio, will be served in the ballroom (noon–5 PM; $98 per adult, $49 per child five–12, free for children four and under; includes admission to the "Family Fun Zone"). The hotel's flagship Navio restaurant will serve a four-course sit-down dinner (1–9 PM; $108 per person, includes a bag of homemade pumpkin cookies to go). Finally, a Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the trimmings can be enjoyed in The Conservatory Lounge from noon–9 PM ($32 per person).

Dining News Elsewhere: Drink Preferences, Raw Oyster Brouhahah

2009-11-13T16:12:00Z

– A whole lot of info on what diners like to drink. [R&I]
– Should the FDA try to prevent you from eating raw oysters? [NYT, Slate]
– Burger King franchisees are suing over $1 double cheeseburgers. [Miami Herald]

– Meanwhile, McDonald's plans for the future. [CNN]
– The backlash to the list of waiter no-nos is on. [XX, Server not Servant]
– How to act around a celebrity chef. [Atlantic]
– The U.K. now has its own version of the Food Network. [Eater]
– Related: Emeril Lagasse is planning a prime-time variety show not on the Food Network. [ABC]
– Mario Batali makes his film debut in The Fantastic Mr. Fox. [WSJ]
– Heston Blumenthal plans a wildly expensive Christmas dinner for a TV special featuring ambergris, aka whale vomit. [Sun]
– Jamie Oliver has seen a backlash for the salt content of his pasta sauces. [Guardian]
– Cooking With Coolio, the cookbook, is now on sale. [EMD]
– Remembering New York City's 1935 ban on baby artichokes. [Diner's Journal]
– Don't be embarrassed to dine out alone. [Between Meals]
– Raising a vegetarian child without the conflict. [LAT]
– Can drunken fruit flies help cure alcoholism? [Wired]
– Looking to find free grub for the rug rats? Try here. [Kids Eat For, via SE]
– Deep-fried turkey disasters. On video. [EMD]

Outtakes: Cruise Lines Edition

2009-11-12T22:28:00Z

Each time we perform a survey here at Zagat we inevitably find ourselves with a slew of amusing outtakes that aren't quite fit for print. Which doesn't mean they aren't entertaining. Here are a few of our favorites from our just completed Cruise Lines survey:

A conga line is not conducive to good digestion.

No activities for anyone who isn't an alcoholic seeking random sex.

They cater to the newly wed and nearly dead.

Great if you like hairy chest contests.

A rust bucket filled with rowdy people.

The more you booze, the better you cruise.

Bathrooms so small you have to sit on the toilet sideways.

It does attract a crowd – it's called ‘God's floating waiting room.'

Tailgating at Acme

2009-11-12T22:12:00Z

Still looking for a place to watch the game tonight? Tailgate in style (and inside) at Acme Chophouse during tonight's home game against the Chicago Bears. From 4:30–10 PM, the restaurant’s bar and lounge area will offer happy-hour specials, including $3 draft beers, $4 select wines by the glass and $5 specialty cocktails, plus $5 snacks for munching (415-644-0240).

Talking High Stakes With Michael Mina

2009-11-11T21:27:00Z

Michael Mina

Photo: Hernan F. Rodriguez

With an award-winning cookbook, accolades including a James Beard Foundation Best Chef award and 17 restaurants across the country, chef Michael Mina is a household name in the industry. During the the Savor Borgata event in Atlantic City, where Mina was cooking for 700 people, the Buzz sat down with the chef to find out, among other things, what he considers to be his biggest gamble of his career.

Zagat Buzz: Welcome to the East Coast! What are you preparing for tonight’s event?

Michael Mina: I’ll be making a Nantucket bay scallop ceviche with horseradish panna cotta and tomato gelee, and a butter-poached lobster with sweet-potato crepe and coconut curry broth.

ZB: Your restaurants are a popular draw in Las Vegas and here in Atlantic City. Did you open restaurants in these spots because you like to gamble?

MM: (Laughs). No, no, I don’t gamble at all. I enjoy it, but I have too many restaurants in casinos that I would end up writing them a check every month!

ZB: What do you consider as the biggest gamble you’ve taken in your career?

MM: Probably when I left Aqua in San Francisco and ventured out on my own to open Michael Mina. I put a lot of money and time in the establishment, and that was a big gamble. Thankfully, it worked out.

ZB: Why haven’t you placed your bets on a restaurant in New York City yet?

MM: I absolutely love New York, but there are a couple of reasons that I'm not there. The main reason is that I enjoy NY too much. My best friend lives there, and when I go I really enjoy myself. I'm not saying that I wouldn't enjoy myself if I opened a restaurant there, but it would be different and I would feel a lot more pressure. Plus, there are just so many big chefs in New York, so if I am going to open there, I will have to put in an enormous amount of effort. I have two young boys right now so the timing isn’t right for the focus and effort required.

ZB: How much do you feel that dining guides affect your business?

MM: All of the guides affect business. Zagat especially has an enormous impact on the restaurant business here in the U.S. But dining guides are important for the restaurant business around the world.

ZB: How many restaurants are you planning on opening in 2010?

MM: The only restaurant we have planned to do right now is American Fish in Las Vegas’ CityCenter. I am really excited about it, as the opening is really right around the corner. I did a walk through of the building last week and it is beautiful, really spectacularly designed. I have a lot to live up to there.

San Francisco

Som Enchanted Evening

Dining News Elsewhere: Obese Americans, Ramsay Loses His Number Two

Two More Nights of TWO

No More Nouveau

Dining News Elsewhere: Koodies, Samuelsson Goes to Washington

Gingerbread Wishes

One Market's gingerbread kit

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Bringing Back Bruno's

Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Bruno's

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Getting Into That Beaujolais Spirit

Photo: courtesy of FI:AF

Dining News Elsewhere: Buzzy Booze, Subway in the Sky

Outtake of the Week

Thanksgiving '09: Outside SF

Lake Chalet

Photo: courtesy of the restaurant

Marin and Wine Country

6526 Yount St., Yountville; 707-204-6030

7377 St. Helena Hwy., Napa; 707-944-2749

317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-431-0330

507 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-927-3331

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito; 415-332-7771

234 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415-924-7766

East Bay

2086 Allston Way, Berkeley; 510-845-7300

1520 Lakeside Dr., Oakland; 510-208-5253

1360 Locust St., Walnut Creek; 925-256-1234

1 Broadway, Oakland; 510-444-7171

2295 Broadway, Oakland; 510-834-1000

South

175 W. Cliff Dr., Santa Cruz; 831-460-5012

334 Santana Row, San Jose; 408-244-1180

2825 Sand Hill Rd., Menlo Park; 650-561-1500

14555 Big Basin Way, Saratoga; 408-867-4711

1 Miramontes Point Rd., Half Moon Bay; 650-712-7000

Dining News Elsewhere: Drink Preferences, Raw Oyster Brouhahah

Outtakes: Cruise Lines Edition

Tailgating at Acme

Talking High Stakes With Michael Mina

Michael Mina

Photo: Hernan F. Rodriguez

–Kathleen Squires