Jackie's
Photo: courtesy of the restaurant
Flying in the face of carbo-phobia, well-regarded chef Frank Morales (ex Rustico and Zola) is obsessed with bread and beer, which come together at his latest gig refocusing the modern American cuisine at Jackie’s in Silver Spring.
Zagat Buzz: Tell us about your interest in bread, and how it's related to beer.
Frank Morales: Well, you can think of beer as bread in a glass. They share many of the same components. There is a fermentation process in both. So, I thought, why not try to blend the lines.
ZB: How did you do that?
FM: About four years ago, I created a sourdough starter with grapes. One day, I began feeding it beer and flour, instead of water and flour. In choosing a brew, I went to the fundamentals of great beers – choosing a Trappist-style Belgian to intensify the taste. I discovered that the resulting bread had a terrific flavor profile – a great sour flavor, caramel in the crust and a weblike texture. This bread pairs with grilled cheese and country ham, and it is on the menu at Jackie’s.
ZB: What other breads have you developed and will they be served at Jackie’s?
FM: We have a malty, darker bread made with Westmalle Duvel that goes with my pork and tomato dish. A lighter bread gets its spicy sweetness from Achel Eight Degrees Trappist Tripple. It pairs well with a cheese platter. Not only are these served at Jackie’s, but we will be selling them retail.
ZB: How else are you refocusing the menu?
FM: We are looking for more seasonal and local products to use.
ZB: Since you have to feed a starter every few days – can you ever go on a vacation?
FM: I have a starter sitter.