Zagat Survey Discussions

Two completely different discussions (Per Se: The Emperor’s Clothes and Who is doing who the favour) have evolved into one similar topic: tasting menus. Some of you love them. (Why?) Some of you hate them. (Why?) Some of you were envious you didn’t order it. (I don’t blame you). The definition of a tasting menu has become vague. In some restaurants, the tasting menu is compiled of the “best” dishes off the menu. In others, you can choose your own tasting, again, based off the menu. Isn’t a traditional tasting menu supposed to be the chef’s creation of unique dishes not found on the menu? That’s what makes it so special and “worth” the price, no? There seems to be a fine line between what some call a tasting and others define a prix fixe. What do you think??

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In it’s original concept, the tasting menu was intended to showcase the chef’s talent and creativity. To do this the chef would create a special multi-course meal consisting of dishes not on the regular menu. Often, these dishes were comprised of seasonal, hard to find, difficult to prepare, and/or very expensive ingredients such as truffles, caviar, etc. Everyone at the table ate the same meal as, in those days it would have been an affront to be at the special table where the chef was displaying his very best efforts, to a limited amount of diners that evening. Ego? In the beginning, I think, perhaps! But also, very often, well deserved. Those desiring this experience requested the tasting menu in advance, when they made their reservation. This allowed the chef to order and prep properly.

Over time, in order to accommodate individual requests, and also generate revenue, fixed price tasting menus were offered comprised of select multiple dishes (now called, courses) from items on the regular menu. In my opinion, this type of meal should be called a ‘Sampling Menu’ rather than a ‘Tasting Menu’. There is a definite difference in concept between the two.

There are exceptions whereby a chef will prepare different tasting menu courses in order to accommodate individual diners seated at the same table. It’s all up to restaurant policy. 

I enjoy a tasting menu, especially when properly paired with wine. Aside from the detailed preparation and presentation, it’s enjoyable to be able to discuss each course in detail with others at your table.

I agree with the posters above...there are nuances that differentiate both types of meals: 'Chef's Tasting Menu' and 'Prix Fixe'.
In my experience, a Chef's Tasting Menu allows for more creativity in the kitchen, picking dishes at will and not necessarily from the printed menu...Costs can generally run higher, and it is more adventuresome. On the other hand, a Prix Fixe Menu usually allows for a good sampling of the existing menu but is more budget conscious...You know what the bill will be, though there are often supplements to this kind of menu.
Depending on how I feel or what is happening in my wallet, I enjoy both concepts from time to time...
At O Ya in Boston I should have gone with the chef's omekase selections instead of a la carte, I probably would have made out better and enjoyed more dishes. At Inn at Little Washington in VA. there was a choice of two prix fixe menus, one priced higher than the other with supplements...and when I am want a 'value' meal on a budget I go to a favorite nearby spot and order their nightly special: normally a solid 3-course fixed price meal with sides for a nominal price.

The current concept of a tasting menu has just evolved from the original prix fixe concept. Traditionally, the prix fixe menu consisted of dishes that were not typically on the restaurant's menu, and were usually 3 or 5 courses. 

Tasting menus, however, usually combine a chef's classic dishes along with his/her new creations. Last week, I dined at Michael Mina's restaurant in Las Vegas, and he offers 3 tasting menus, one of which highlights select dishes from his latest cookbook. At the Minibar in Washington, D.C., Jose Andres offers a 30 course menu of bite size morsels.

I usually order the tasting menu when I travel, so I can get a broader spectrum of the chef's repertoire.

One particular chef I admire is Alan Wong. At his restaurant in Honolulu, he will highlight one of his line chefs, and will allow them to create their own tasting menu for the evening. This is a great way to show appreciation to staff members who are usually invisible to the public.

Personally, I am a huge fan of tasting menus. I love the variety as well as the element of surprise that comes with it.

Normally, I have a weakness in tending to gravitate towards dishes I already know I enjoy. So when picking dishes from a menu, I find myself going back to variations of my usual choices.

When selecting the tasting menu, I am letting the chef decide for me. No bias from my part. It exposes me to flavors, textures, and aromas that I normally do not push myself to seek.

Although I cannot say that I have always liked every dish I ever had as part of a tasting menu, the experience is usually a good one (even if what I learned is that still do not like beef liver in any presentation).

However, my absolute favorite part of the tasting menu, is the challenge of pairing the right wine to each plate. This is especially fun when my party is large enough and I am not limited to ordering from the by-the-glass or half-bottle lists.

I must also admit that at times I have found some tasting menus to be overwhelming in the amount of food served. On more than one occasion I have found myself fully satisfied with my meal by the fourth course only to realize there are four more to go. This defeats the whole idea of tasting and is more of a gluttony extravaganza.

As of now, my all-time favorite tasting menus include Nobu (NY), Gordon Ramsay (NY), Avenues (Chicago), Alinea (Chicago), Fifth Floor (San Francisco), Pierre Gagnaire (Paris), and La Chevre d'Or (Eze). All very different. All great gastronomic experiences. However, the search continues...

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It's a shame we only have about 60 years to find the best wine out there.

I have long enjoyed both Kenard and Kirk's postings...  They write very well, are very knowledgeable, and I find them immensely interesting...  I would suggest that either or both together consider writing a book about dining in all it's aspects - I'm sure they could master such a volume...  I'd line up outside the store to purchase it on the first day...

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Surf & turf's up...!!

Terrence ...

I’m overwhelmed by your most gracious compliment, and interesting proposal to expand on my writings in this forum. If only you were a literary agent.....!!!

I have read many of your postings and have always found them well stated and often written with an excellent sense of humor, which I greatly appreciate seeing in this type of forum. Humor often prevents a topic from getting too heated and serves to relieve tension, if any exists. 

Bravo for your input and for taking the time to write such kind words about both Kirk and me. Very gracious of you, indeed!!!

Terrence,

Thank you very much for your kind words towards Kenard and me. Flattery will get you everywhere!! I find your prose to be both witty and insightful. As far as writing a book about dining….perhaps.

You're welcome...and...you're welcome...

A sincere fan,

T.

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Surf & turf's up...!!

Now...how could I possibly let this go without commenting ;-)

Terrence - I agree with you that Kirk and Kenard always have the most well-considered and astute comments here. Their yin and yang of west coast/east coast is always thought provoking and appreciated.

I'd be right next to you on line to get that book (I promise to wear my tiara). And I always enjoy your posts as well.

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À votre santé

In Chicago one of the best tasting menus is Sweets & Savories, 1534 W. Fullerton. Chef David Richards always picks a selection of favorites that go well together and are prepared to perfection. He even does a brunch tasting menu which I have yet to try but have heard many wonderful reviews. For a set price, you enjoy what I have found are specialities of the house and season.

Prix fixe is typically a selection of a few items that make up a three or four course menu and the guest selects which items they would enjoy to make up their menu. Retro Bistro in the suburbs of Chicago has a delightful and affordable prix fixe menu that I enjoy when I visit them.

I believe Tasting menus have become a learned experience in restaurants now very much like pasta and coffee are no longer just spaghetti and black coffee.

Wonder Woman? Waiting in line?? To see.....me??? Nobody’ll believe this. I gotta get my camera fixed for this happening!

Hi La Linda (may I call you “La” for short?), and thank you so much for your kind words. As always it’s great to see a post from you, especially the one that prompted this response! 

Your comments are a pleasure to read, as they not only are accurate and insightful, they’re also laden with great passion for what you believe in. I respect that to a great extent. 

Terrence, you devil, you!!! Look what you started .............!!!

Wonder Woman next to me in line.....  I hope it's a looong line.....and a hot day.....  Then drinks all around for the guys and La.....  Ooo La La.....

Write that book guys.......

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Surf & turf's up...!!

Linda,

I enjoy reading your comments, and admire the flair and wit in which you articulate your opinion. Your expressed agreement regarding Terrence’s observation, are both humbling and greatly appreciated. I think I’ll have a glass of champagne – or two!

Hey Kenard – I have an extra camera that is in working order!!

Kirk - wrote:

Hey Kenard – I have an extra camera that is in working order!!

 
Kirk ...

Great! Keep those batteries charged. We need all the equipment we can gather! Right now, I’m thinking U-Haul.

You know how fast Wonder Woman can move. Once she crosses her arms......we’ll have just milliseconds to get a worthwhile photo!