For his review this week, Pete Wells stopped by the twinkling restaurant ABC Cocina, Jean-Georges' new Latin-inspired hot spot in the ABC Carpet and Home Building (all of that twinkling is due to the lighting fixtures that you can purchase after you're done with your spring pea guacamole). The writer has a bit of fun with the decor, noting "It looked to me like a fairly simple cafe, with metal chairs and bare tables, located inside a lighting showroom," and he jabs the restaurant for it's mixed-messaging menu, which he says "borders on incoherence."
Despite his concerns, the critic comes away muy impressed, lauding Cocina's creations. "There’s an alchemy at work at ABC Cocina, the kind that can turn the last thing you’d want to order into the first thing you’ll ask for next time around." And that next time will probably be at least a month down the road, because after this two-star review, this already packed eatery is sure to be booked for the foreseeable future.