Cheat Sheet: Colonia Verde in Fort Greene

Inside the Latin American-inspired newcomer brought to you by the team behind SoHo's Comodo
March 5, 2014
by Jess Bender

The Gist: The husband-wife team behind the Soho neighborhood spot Cómodo bring their asado-style Latin American cuisine to Fort Greene.

The Space: You’re instantly greeted with a warm, subterranean dining room that is split up into two parts. The front area is decked out with flooring made out of salvaged bricks, a long copper bar and an open kitchen that features their heavily-used wood-fired grill. If you’re a fan of dining under the stars, the back dining area is encased in a rustic greenhouse with windowed ceilings.

The Crowd: 30-something females having a girls’ night out, young Brooklyn parents on their weekly date night, and several couples canoodling over small plates filled the bustling restaurant on a recent Saturday. 

Eat This: One of their signature items, the Pao de Queijo Sliders ($12), breathes new life into the often-forgettable three-bite burger. Three melt-in-your-mouth lamb patties pair-off nicely with the addictive Brazilian cheese bread bun. The bowl of chipotle crema that accompanies the sliders could be used in a variety of ways, but you’ll end up most satisfied if you just dip your burger into it with every bite.

Drink This: ‘El Fuerte,' a mezcal bourbon base is hit with an aperitif wine flavored with orange and smoky mole bitters, and then capped off with an orange rind.  

Skip This: The ‘horchata’ part of the Horchata Rum ($11) gets a little lost in translation. While you get your money’s worth of rum, the powerful cinnamon syrup leaves an overwhelming lingering aftertaste.

For Fans Of: Cómodo, Rayuela, Yerba Buena

The Damage: Two small plates and two rounds of cocktails will cost a single diner about $50 (minus tip).

The Verdict: With a lack of upscale Latin American choices in Fort Greene, the Cómodo crew picked the right neighborhood for their second home. It’s apparent that every dish and cocktail is made with an extra dose of passion, and the cozy, dimly-lit interior makes for the ideal spot for Brooklynites to have a laid-back date night close to home.

View from above

Giant windows let in plenty of light in the dining area

View from outside

Wood-burning fire alert!

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