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Gallo di Nero's 4 Most Delicious Dishes Right Now

At this Italian retreat in the Golden Triangle, chef Darren Pusateri's sumptuous summer menu gets a gold star
July 29, 2014
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by Ruth Tobias

Back in Februrary, we strongly suggested you visit Josh and Jessica Barhaug’s cozy little hideaway in the Golden Triangle. Now we’re going to have to insist on it. Chef Darren Pusateri — whose impressive résumé includes stints at Frasca, Sushi Den and db Bistro Moderne in New York City — puts the wood-fired oven at Gallo di Nero’s center in service of an Italian-inspired menu that’s rustic and sophisticated, traditional and inventive by turns. It’s also all-around delicious.  

Carpaccio

Frankly, we’re bored by most plates of carpaccio di manzo after one or two bites. But Pusateri ensures his air-dried beef (pictured top) is a gift that keeps on giving: crumbled blue cheese, leaves of horseradish-grilled radicchio, dollops of anchovy cream and pickled mustard seeds form a rainbow of pungent flavors you’ll follow to the end. 

Spaghettoni alla Bottarga

The funky, sea-salty savor of bottarga — or dried, pressed fish roe, in this case mullet — is as addictive as it is unmistakable. Knowing that a little goes a long way, Pusateri shaves it gently onto his pasta, then leaves you to toss it together with fresh mushrooms, chives, pecorino and a fresh egg yolk. 

Wood-Fired Ribeye

If you've got a date to impress and the wallet to do it with, however, you can't go wrong with the bone-in ribeye. Clocking in at an enormous 36-40 oz., it's carved tableside into perfectly medium-rare slices, drizzled with red-wine demiglace and accompanied by potatoes — though you should also throw in a jar of the house-pickled vegetables, containing a vibrant, fragrant mix of cucumbers, beets, cauliflower, green beans and bell peppers.

Chilled Cucumber Soup

Granted, if something a tad lighter is in order, this cool, creamy cuke soup will do the trick. Salmon crudo and and ricotta gnocchi add chunks of spunk, while julienned, pickled jalapeño gives it a kick we didn't see coming. 

1135 Bannock St.; 303-825-1995

golden triangle
italian food