Back in Februrary, we strongly suggested you visit Josh and Jessica Barhaug’s cozy little hideaway in the Golden Triangle. Now we’re going to have to insist on it. Chef Darren Pusateri — whose impressive résumé includes stints at Frasca, Sushi Den and db Bistro Moderne in New York City — puts the wood-fired oven at Gallo di Nero’s center in service of an Italian-inspired menu that’s rustic and sophisticated, traditional and inventive by turns. It’s also all-around delicious.
Frankly, we’re bored by most plates of carpaccio di manzo after one or two bites. But Pusateri ensures his air-dried beef (pictured top) is a gift that keeps on giving: crumbled blue cheese, leaves of horseradish-grilled radicchio, dollops of anchovy cream and pickled mustard seeds form a rainbow of pungent flavors you’ll follow to the end.
If you've got a date to impress and the wallet to do it with, however, you can't go wrong with the bone-in ribeye. Clocking in at an enormous 36-40 oz., it's carved tableside into perfectly medium-rare slices, drizzled with red-wine demiglace and accompanied by potatoes — though you should also throw in a jar of the house-pickled vegetables, containing a vibrant, fragrant mix of cucumbers, beets, cauliflower, green beans and bell peppers.
1135 Bannock St.; 303-825-1995