Vegetables can be an afterthought at Tony's Pizza Napoletana, where most diners are apt to get lost in all that dough. But the popular North Beach restaurant has an exceptional fried artichoke starter that's well worth ordering. The green globes are approaching peak season and have prime flavor on their own right now. Tony's kitchen deep fries them, adding extra layers of flavor to the soft, steamed vegetable, which has been pre-trimmed down to the most tender leaves and stalk. The batter is spiked with Peroni, a pale lager from Italy, which helps the veg cook up to a nice bubbly crisp. Dunk in some Thousand Island-esque remoulade. Repeat to your heart's content.