The quickest way to explain this dish to Americans? Call it a Japanese pancake. Okonomiyaki (“okonomi" means “as you like,” while “yaki” means “grilled”) is the ultimate soak-up-your-booze food, made from a batter of flour, grated Japanese yam, shredded cabbage, dashi and eggs. Chefs may fold in additional proteins and vegetables according to the season or their whimsy and then cook it like hotcakes on the griddle. Instead of syrup, okonomiyaki is finished off with one or more condiments, like Kewpie mayo and dense, sweet-spicy okonomiyaki sauce, in a toaster-strudel-like fashion. Then, a snowfall of bonito flakes. Few dishes beg more for a beer.