4 Must-Try Spring Dishes at Bones (Hello, Yakitori!)

By Ruth Tobias  |  March 25, 2014
Credit: Ruth Tobias

Like all of his restaurants, Frank Bonanno’s super-keen Asian-fusion noodle bar on Capitol Hill has boasted a seasonal bent from the get-go. This spring, however, chef John DePierro is taking it to a whole new level with an almost-entirely new menu. Don’t fret, Bones buffs: the lobster ramen is still here, and so are the steamed buns and soft-serve ice cream. But they’re supplemented by some killer new small plates, including yakitori. By mid-April, the skewer selection will run from rotating veggies to what DePierro calls “odds and ends” like duck hearts and chicken gizzards; until then, the quail and chicken offer thrills aplenty, and so do two other starters we sampled last night. Check them all out below.

701 Grant St.; 

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    Escargot potstickers have been a Bones signature since day one, and they're still available for lunch. But the rich, funky snail dish DePierro just added to the dinner menu is every bit as sensational, combining slivered palm hearts and mushrooms with a spicy-sour broth that's smoothed by the sweetness of black-garlic chimichurri. Brush the toasted pistachios sprinkled along the side of the plate on top for even more oomph.

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    The depth of flavor in this crock of creamy smoked grits - melting beneath a chunk of braised pork cheek, pickled okra and a dollop of green-tomato jam - defies its small size.  

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    For their chicken yakitori, DePierro and his crew twist the skin-on thigh meat into adorable rosettes, then serve it over sticky rice and some of the best kimchi we've had in some time, incorporating kale.

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    Maple-hoisin glaze contrasts the char on the quail yakitori, set atop a palate-cleansing green-papaya slaw.