5 Dishes to Get Excited for at Guard and GraceBy Ruth Tobias
February 12, 2014 By Ruth Tobias | February 12, 2014
TAG Restaurant Group founder Troy Guard (pictured top) has had a whirlwind winter, what with opening Sugarmill and Los Chingones in December and representing Denver at Taste of the NFL during the Super Bowl. And now, with chef Cory Treadway (below), he’s putting the final touches on his downtown contemporary steakhouse, Guard and Grace. Treadway knows his way around a chop, having honed his own at Elway’s, but he’s “chomping at the bit” to serve up more than meat. Here, some items to look forward to when the restaurant opens around the beginning of March (and see further details in our 2014 Preview):
Crab cakes. In order to let Seattle Fish Co.’s jumbo blue-lump crab “speak for itself,” the kitchen will go light on the filler: think egg yolks, panko, some Old Bay seasoning and not much else. The resulting cakes will be accompanied by a classic rémoulade.
Colorado bison tartare. Here, too, Treadway’s going for an “unadulterated” flavor profile, enhanced by sea salt, extra-virgin olive oil, shallots, a raw quail egg, and grilled bread from the Grateful Bread Company.
Smoked pork-shoulder flatbread. There will be about seven different flatbreads made with the kitchen’s own honey-touched dough. This one’s topped with hickory-smoked and slow-braised pork shoulder, plus Jack cheese and an enchilada sauce based on guajillo and ancho chiles. (Look also for a play on pizza Margherita, incorporating fresh burrata and first-press extra-virgin olive oil.)
Whole roasted branzino. As with any steakhouse, seafood’s going to play a prominent role at Guard and Grace. This Mediterranean sea bass will be stuffed with citrus, herbs like chives and tarragon, and possibly some Fresno chiles, then roasted over oak.
Bone-in rib-eye. But chops are still the meat of the matter, and here you’ll have your choice of local grass-fed, certified Angus, prime and Wagyu beef. (Guard’s purveyors are currently wet-aging for 21-28 days, though Treadway says that “we’re going to work our way into in-house dry-aging” soon.) You can also choose your cooking method: on the French broiler or on the oak-fired grill. Either way, the chef’s fond of the rib-eye rubbed in a proprietary seasoning blend from Savory Spice Shop.
1801 California St.; 303-293-8500