“I really want the beverage list to reflect the way we approach cheese,” says Miguel Vera, general manager at the LoHi wine bar owned by Rob and Karin Lawler, founders of The Truffle Cheese Shop in Cherry Creek. “We’ve created a niche for ourselves by going with the old-world classics; the value’s with the guys over in Europe who’ve been doing it a long time. Then we fill in the gaps with local and new-world cheese. But these are small-batch, artisanal products that come and go, so the wine list changes constantly too; you can come in from one day to the next and there’ll be a whole different selection” - nearly 30 in all by the glass, including sherry, port and other fortified wines, supplemented with 10-plus offerings by the bottle.
Amid the Spanish Mencias, Austrian Zwiegelts and Basilicatan Grecos, admits Vera, “the wine list can seem esoteric and intimidating to some. But our whole goal is to get across to people that wine, like cheese, is really a simple, traditional product.” Case in point: the Château Saint-Eulalie Minervois La Liviniere from Languedoc-Roussillon. “That’s a whole lot of words - but it’s been our best-seller. It’s big and bold, especially for an old-world wine, with a ton of dried blueberries, vanilla, and cocoa. Now that’s it’s fall, we have a lot of people asking for Syrah, and it’s fun to be able to answer that question with a Rhône blend of that caliber.” It’s even more fun to drink that answer alongside a cheese from southern France: “The rule that ‘if it grows together, it goes together’ does apply here,” Vera promises.
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