The New Direction at Corner House, in Pictures

By Ruth Tobias  |  February 17, 2014
Credit: Ruth Tobias

At just over a year old, this super-hip Jefferson Park neighborhood joint has seen some changes recently. First was the departure of chef Matt Selby (who’s since landed at Central Bistro & Bar), then the arrival of his successor, Sharif Villa Cruz, about three weeks ago. And Friday came the announcement that well-known local industry players Leigh Sullivan and Travis Plakke had joined managing partners James Iacino and Scott Kinsey in the operation. 

That news was accompanied by the launch of a menu that’s quite a departure from earlier versions: seafood preparations now represent more than half the selections. It makes sense for a couple of reasons: one, Iacino is the president of local distributor Seattle Fish Co., and two, Villa Cruz arrives fresh from a stint at the Glendale branch of Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. Among the new dishes are raw oysters with roasted-mushroom salsa, tiger-shrimp ceviche atop guacamole in amarillo sauce and those pictured here. Get ready to dig in.

2240 Clay St.; 720-287-1895

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    A play on gazpacho (complete with broth, poured tableside), this octopus confit presents a mosaic of bright flavors - slivered artichoke leaves, chopped almonds and Castelvetrano olives, capers, tomatoes, red onion, garlic, cilantro - all resting on a thin layer of Niçoise tapenade. 

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    Left Hand milk stout infuses the intense broth of this mussel bowl, also filled with crisp red-potato wedges, al dente green beans, pickled mustard seeds and shallots. There's grilled ciabatta on the side for sopping up the liquid, but we suggest you also request a spoon - and an extra plate for cutting up the veggies. 

  • Credit: Ruth Tobias

    We lucked out on Saturday with a killer special of roasted, herb-rubbed hamachi jaw in edamame-studded grapefruit ponzu, garnished with watermelon radishes and sprouts.

  • Crab rillettes come with an assortment of lox, prosciutto, Camembert, queso de mano, and fresh and pickled veggies. 

  • Of course, Villa Cruz's debut menu showcases more than seafood, from salads and soups like this celery-root-apple bisque to a couple of land-based entrees and seasonal desserts. The chef says he'll always have a strudel à la mode as well, be it Braeburn apple or rhubarb.