Best Thing We Ate

Best Thing We Ate: Central Bistro's Parnsip Soup

By Ruth Tobias  |  January 21, 2014
Credit: Ruth Tobias

With Steuben’s, Vesta and Corner House on his resume, chef Matt Selby knows a thing or two about hip locals' hangouts. Now, as Eater first reported last week, he's taken over the kitchen at another neighborhood hot spot, Isiah Salazar’s  Central Bistro & Bar in LoHi.

As Selby works to weave his dishes into the existing contemporary American menu, he's testing things out via daily specials, such as this stellar parsnip soup we sampled on Saturday night. Shallow as the bowl is, its earthy-sweet contents run deep, highlighted by touches of green-curry oil and orange zest. Chopped, fried kale and croutons add crunchy contrast to its creaminess. Granted, we’ve been fond of the comfortable, offbeat yet elegant food at Central since day one. The toasted sweet-potato gnocchi with hazelnuts and pears, shown below, is just one case in point. Judging from the balance of textures and flavors in this unassuming, yet totally unconventional soup, Selby should fit right in.

1691 Central St.; 303-477-4582