First Bite: Lower48By Ruth Tobias | December 16, 2013 By Ruth Tobias | December 16, 2013
A few weeks ago, when we chatted with Mario Nocifera, his chef-partner Alex Figura and sous chef Gregory Schesser about their dream project at the edge of the Ballpark district, the space was still under construction, and the menu remained a work in progress. But as of last Monday, the vision behind Lower48 became a reality - and boy, is it sharp.
The team had emphasized their commitment to America’s culinary heritage in terms of both the ingredients they’re bringing in daily and the time-tested techniques they’re applying. But it’s not until you sit down - preferably at the chefs’ counter, where the action on a busy Saturday night proved unusually fluid, even graceful - and take a gander at the menu that the reliance on heirloom grains and cereals, just-harvested produce and the preservation methods of old fully reveals itself.
And the delivery is every bit as vivid as the promise. We sampled a number of the $2 snacks as well as a few larger plates, and each seemed more packed with complex flavors than the last. Have a taste for yourself.
2020 Lawrence St., Unit A; 303-942-0262