What to Eat at Guard and Grace

By Ruth Tobias  |  March 12, 2014
Credit: Christopher Cina

Comparing his Asian fusion-influenced LoDo flagship, TAG, to his just-opened downtown steakhouse, Troy Guard says: “At TAG, it’s all about marinades and sauces. Here at Guard & Grace, it’s about the core ingredients.” Of course, the differences go far beyond that. But after sampling a number of dishes off the long menu, we get his point: executive sous chef Cory Treadway’s light touch reveals the clean, bright flavors of his raw materials, not the power of butter, cream and spices. Learn all about the newcomer from our preview here, and view the slideshow below for a major taste tour. 

1801 California St.; 303-293-8500

  • Credit: Christopher Cina

    Meet Chef Cory Treadway.

  • Kampachi sashimi comes dotted with yuzu, wasabi and olive oil beneath a sprinkling of apple julienne and black-lava salt.

  • The shredded, braised lamb neck that's such a hit in tacos at Guard's Ballpark cantina, Los Chingones, here mingles with grilled shishito peppers and zucchini for a bold, fusion-y, chile-oil-spiked twist on pillowy gnocchi.  

  • Pescatarians can dig into entrees like this seared Hawaiian tuna in a Meyer-lemon reduction over roasted sunchokes.

  • Credit: Christopher Cina

    But we couldn't get enough of Treadway's refined take on beef heart - oak-grilled, sliced and served over potato rösti with romesco sauce.

  • The fragrance of oak also subtly infuses this terrific grilled-asparagus appetizer, garnished with palm heart and pickled cipollini.

  • Credit: Christopher Cina

    The meat of the matter: bone-in Angus strip steak rubbed in a proprietary spice blend from Savory Spice Shop. 

  • Yukon Gold potato rolls, dusted with sea salt and accompanied by Dijon butter, are served gratis. We guarantee you'll eat more than you should before your meal even technically begins.

  • A grainy crust of steel-cut oats adds textural intrigue to this ultra-creamy butterscotch tart made with actual Scotch, enhanced by a dollop of Tahitian-vanilla cream, a drizzle of milk chocolate - and a Pocky stick for good measure.

  • While sommelier Todd Rocchio's wine list anchors the beverage program, the bar also dispenses a handful of craft beers and naturally turns out some killer cocktails. The Sunshine State, combining vodka, Meyer lemon and Madagascar vanilla-bean soda, would pair perfectly with any number of chilled-seafood dishes (we're thinking the lobster with avocado and grapefruit).