Pete Wells Gives One Star to M. Wells Steakhouse

By Kelly Dobkin  |  January 29, 2014

NY Times dining critic Pete Wells has bestowed one star upon M. Wells Steakhouse in LIC, the eponymous team's attempt to make the steakhouse hipster-accessible. He writes about the fundamental spiritual crisis that the genre is currently in, and that M. Wells is not really much of an exception: "Discipline is not its strong suit, for better and for worse. It can lurch from magnificence to sloppiness, from inspired fever dreams to inarticulate notions that aren’t ready to leave the kitchen. One thing that needs improvement is the steak. This isn’t as fatal as you’d think, because when M. Wells Steakhouse succeeds, it does so in a deeply satisfying fashion, by feeding the lust in your gut for a meal that is not just a dinner but a feast." Read the whole thing here. [NYT]