The Rise of the Market-Cafe: Talula’s Daily / High Street on Market / Tela’s Market & Kitchen / Farm and Fisherman Tavern & Market
As contemporary dining moves further and further from the land of white tablecloths, a new breed of storefront has become ascendant: the combination market and cafe, often augmented by a sit-down dinner aspect.
Aimee Olexy was first to take the concept big, and after convincing partner Stephen Starr that it would work, opened Talula’s Daily on Washington Square in June. From coffee and pastries to gourmet goods and the family-style suppers served six nights a week, the place has been roaring with almost nary a misstep.
Owner Ellen Yin and chef Eli Kulp breathed new life into the former Fork:etc and transformed it in near record time into High Street on Market, which opened in September. The whirlwind revamp is paying off, as daytime customers flock for Rival Bros. espressos, breakfast sandwiches and take-home loaves of interesting breads. During the evening hours, dinner service provides Kulp with a chance to invent new dishes and play with new ingredients.
Tela’s Market (on Fairmount Avenue) and Farm and Fisherman Tavern (in Cherry Hill) both opened just last month, but both also come with notable pedigrees. Running the kitchen at the former is Amada alum Chad Williams, who’s putting out appetizing prepared dishes to accompany one of the neighborhood’s only spots for organic produce and great coffee. Josh Lawler of The Farm and Fisherman in Center City is behind the latter, which - thanks to its NJ address - offers both a full bar and all kinds of bottles to-go, along with other goods.