Best Thing We Ate

Craftsman and Wolves Hides Kimchi in a Sandwich

By Tamara Palmer  |  March 12, 2014
Credit: Tamara Palmer

Mission District patisserie Craftsman and Wolves blows the lid off of its kimchi sandwich. First off, the kimchi is blended straight into the bread for a warm, orange-hued and crumbly pain de mie loaf. There's no fermented cabbage to crunch through here, just the subtle tang of vinegar, which is enhanced by a smear of sesame butter. A tangle of barely brined bok choy, roasted shiitake mushroom slivers, not-too-spicy chile-spiked peanuts and shredded nori make up the meat of this satisfying sandwich. It's served open-faced, because a second slice of bread would just be overkill and would distract from the delicate balance of flavors at work. Needless to say, this beauty is best eaten with a fork and knife.